I am putting my motor back in and now I go to put the z-bar in and set up my clutch pedal and I'm out of adjustment on the rod. Same clutch same flywheel etc. It's a centerforce dual friction. Throwout bearing is good the pivot point for the clutch fork seems to be pivoting correctly. It's like there is about an inch of forward to back movement before you feel the throwout bearing make contact with the pressure plate. Any Ideas?

OK, I'm getting Pi$^ed. I hd the tranny out 4 times now. Flywheel side of clutch installed correctly ,pressure plate looks good. I torqued pressure plate to 45ft/lbs. Found a book that said 35, but I doubt that putting too much pressure on the pressure plat. What gives?

MREMCHN (name?)
Check the release bearing you are using against the old one. A 1/8" difference in installed pressure plate finger depth or a 1/8" difference in the length of the release bearing could change the linkage travel at the pedal by 1-1/2" in most cars. Another factor often overlooked is a thicker clutch disc like some of the dual friction discs out there will cause a condition where the clutch will barely disengage when pushed to the floor and freeplay at the top will be non existent until the clutch is well broken in.
Jim

Name. Mystery Machine

Long story but the car was local and alot of people didn't believe it existed-hence the name. Same release bearing, clutch, pressure plate. Car had 800 miles on it maybe and everything looked good so i deceided to re-use it. I ate a distributor gear and pulled the motor and went through it. Distributor needed shimmed. I didn't know it because they installed it when it was on the dyno and I never took it out until it was gone. Putting back in now and can't figure out what's wrong.

I'm just shootin in the dark here but Is it possible that the fork and release bearing were not put together properly and when you took it apart and reassembled it you put it together properly? Have a look at the linkage and see if a longer release bearing will fix it. Chevy used two different length release bearings. You may have the short one and require the longer one. The fork could have been installed on the release bearing incorrectly and you didn't notice it. If the linkage is all in the same location, I can't see how things could be different using all the same pieces.
Jim

just found the back "edge" of the bearing that seats up against the input shaft area is bent about 1/8" all on one side. I will replace but could this be the problem?

It sounds like you have a installation problem with the fork and bearing. As I said earlier, you may have the wrong bearing and to cure the problem, the previous installer may have purposely installed it incorrectly to fix it. Check this thread out. John Z has posted a nice picture showing proper fork to bearing installation. http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=59898&highlight=release+bearing
Jim

I did check to make sure the clips were under that back edge, and although I couldn't see them at the time they felt like they were. I think I'll try the new bearing and reassemble again. When my pocketbook allows a tko600 is in my future. The first time I get any traction with 601h.p. and an even 601 Ft/lbs of torque this Muncie is going to give!

Let me know when you're ready for the TKO. I can help you with that. Goodluck with the clutch.
Jim

I will let you know. Bearing didn't work. pivot ball to front of bell housing is 4 3/4 inches. All I can say is