What are the main differences between putting in a TKO 600 or T56? It doesn't seem like it's too much more money for a T56, so why would you want to stick with the TKO 600? They seem to be able to take about the same amount of forces, also. They both seem to have issues with shifter locations and cross-members, is installation noticably different in either one? Any opinions, or is money and personal preference about the only issues? (I've got a '68, Muncie, console, and electronic speedo.) Thanks.

I looked at both and went TKO. I only got as far as looking at the double OD of the T56 and reading about some issues with fitment before I dismissed the T56.

The guys at Classic Chevy 5-speed have a nice TKO kit, with a nice tubular crossmember that has multiple outer holes where it mounts to the subframe, to allow adjustment there. The McLeod Trick Stix shifter that they have removes any need to cut the tunnel opening, although I think it may be slightly forward still.

Do a search here under GMJim and TKO 600, and read Jim's excellent, detailed post regarding his TKO600 install. He had a Keisler kit, but switched over to the Classic Chevy 5-Speed set up (and went to work for Jeff and Scott). Great guys all.

For the T56, do a search for Teetoe Jones on here. Tyler supposedly has the best T56 setup out there.

I didn't want the double OD or the hassle. I bought pieces for my TKO setup from several different vendors, but if I was starting over, I would buy the CC5S kit and things would have been a lot simpler.

Bry68
Eric is correct. (thanks for the kind words Eric). Except the Trick Stix shifter puts the stick exactly in the factory position. Check my sig. (it was the other shifter that was 1 inch forward) Anyway a T56 would require several modifications and is more expensive overall. A TKO can be installed in a day and is considerably cheaper.

I've got the Aftermarket T-56 with the 2.97 first, .80 fifth and .62 sixth in my '68 Camaro with a 4.11 rear. It bolts up to a standard Chevy bellhousing and can use the standard mechanical clutch linkage. (You can do substantially the same thing with an LS1 T-56 and some adapter parts from McLeod Industries.) I used the ATS cross member but had to drill new holes to mount it because it's designed for the shorter LT1 bellhousing. I also had to move my console back from the stock location (it's not really noticeable) and shorten the driveshaft.

I have a fairly mild 350 in my car. That said, I can light the rear tires (275-35 18's) up in first or second gear simply by stomping on the gas, cruise at 2,000 rpm at 60 mph, get 18 mpg on the freeway with no effort to conserve fuel and agressively drive our local mountain roads in 5th gear (unless it gets really serious).

I love the combo and would REALLY miss that 6th gear with my setup.

Mike-
Do you find the 2.97 first and 4.11 too low? I was thinking 2.66 and 4.11, and thought that was low.

Ethan 1967 327

Yeah, I was wondering the same thing about the gears (since I also have a 4.11).

So, I'm getting that it's harder to put in a T56, and more expensive, but how much harder and how much more expensive? The modifications look about the same to me, so are the increased costs just in the purchase of the tranny itself (especially if the TKO shifter is $300)?

Both need shifter mods, shorter drive-lines, and tweaked cross-members. How much more work is needed in putting in a T56? If it's not that much more it might be worth it. Thanks for the input so far.

I was looking at the Classic Chevy 5-speed site and all i could find was comlete kits. I already have the Tremec 5 speed because I have a '93 Camaro 3.4L which is no longer of any use to me...other than the tranny. Do they have any kits for everything but the tranny and would my TKO work with my bellhousing ('72 350 engine) Right now I have a saginaw 4spd in it and I have heard nothing but bad things about it.

Fbodymadnezz -

Are you saying you have a Tremec out of a 93 Camaro V6? If so, that would be a T-5 and is NOT a TKO (unless someone put a TKO in it along the way...). The V6 T-5 mounting flanges are rotated a little, and won't work with a stock V8 bellhousing. A V6 T-5 is also relatively weak.

Crap.


I had a feeling if it were out of a 3.4L it wouldnt be any good.

I don't know what the TKO's go for but I can give you some price info for the T56. I am close to completing my conversion. Tranny cost - $2700 new from D&D for use with stock mechanical clutch; shifter upgrade - 150; yoke $80 - $100; shorten and balance driveshaft - $100. Since the yoke and shortening the driveshaft was pushing $200, I just got a whole new driveshaft. ATS crossmember - $250.

You can probably find used ones for alot cheaper and switch to a hydraulic clutch using a kit. I was able to offset a large chunk of the cost by selling my Richmond 5 speed.

Mike, I just got my ATS crossmember. How much did you have to move the subframe holes back for your install?? Thanks

In January 2002 I had my #'s matching MO 302 freshened up to stock specs. The engine is out of my '68 RS Z28 M21 4.10:1 geared car. I wanted to drive the car but didn't want to take any chances damaging the stock engine. Consequently, I contacted American Speed and purchased a 450 hp small block, and in March 2002 I purchased a Tremec TKO from Bob Hanlon @ Hanlon Motorsports. Bob and I discussed the swap in detail and he assured me that the transmission would be a bolt-in and I wouldn't have to modify the car in any manner. I paid my money, took my chances, and bolted in what I believe is now quite possibly the best combination for a daily driver. The .68:1 5th gear overdrive reduced the revs from 3000 @ 60mph down to 2100 @ 60 mph. Talk about reduced wear and tear on the drive train and on what's left of my hearing!! The gas mileage increased by about 25% and the way the cost of fuel is going these days it's a HUGE consideration.

Matter of fact, I was so pleased with the Tremec TKO, I bought a second one from Hanlon Motorsports and installed it in my 1970 SS350 Nova M21 bench seat car. The Nova has a 3.23:1 diff. and with that .68:1 overdrive, the final drive ratio in 5th is a miserly 2.19:1. Great for those long highway trips.

It appears that there are a number of different overdrive vendors out there that will provide you with the kit of your choice. Jim Goodland's comments are valid and the Tremec swap is relatively easy to do in a day, especially when all the components are provided. The only part I had to make that wasn't supplied in the Hanlon kits were the driveshafts, which was no big deal since a good friend owns a machine shop. I also installed Center Force clutches in both cars so that my wife wouldn't have problems with a heavy left pedal. IMHO I would go with the Tremec, but regardless of your choice you will discover a completely different car when you're finished the overdrive swap. Good luck and happy motoring.

There are no 'big mods' needed to bolt in a T56 to a 1st gen. The 2 biggest mods are shifter hole, and a new mounting point on the clutch pedal for a hydraulic master pushrod.
Let me get rid of some T56 rumors right now:

Shifter location -

Myth: the shifter location on a T56 is too far back to be useful. It needs to come up by 6+ inches.

FALSE.

The shifter comes in about 3.5" rear ward of a factory 4spd car. When you think about how the factory shifter curves back, the knob ends up in the SAME spot as when you install a T56. Best way to describe it is when you take your hand off the wheel and let it fall, you will land on a T56 shifter. No more reaching to put it into third gear.

Tunnel mods-

Myth: The T56 requires extensive tunnel mods to get it to fit in a 1st gen F body.

FALSE.

The LT1 style T56 found in the 93-97 F body cars requires no mods to fit into the tunnel.
EXCEPTIONS-
1/2 drop subframe body bushings require a tunnel mod, as do D&D 'Viper' boxes. Production versions do not.

Clutch linkage/actuation-

Myth: T56's require tricky hydraulic systems to actuate the clutch fork, and are impossibly hard to setup, and adapt, requiring the adaptation of a 4th gen pedal assembly, and firewall mods.

FALSE.

Our T56 kit is a 100% true bolt in. Nothing about the hydraulic portion of the install is hard at all. Our firewall bracket was designed by General Motors for this application. We own the rights to the bracket, and it allows the use of the 4th gen hydraulic master and acutator assembly to be used with a stock set of 1st gen F body clutch/brake pedals. The bracket is at the correct angle for the master, and our hydraulics are modded to bolt right up, and even come pre-bled.

Speedometer-

Myth: You must use an electronic speedo in the dash, or convert the tail shaft of the T56 over to mechanical to use the stock 1st gen gauges.

FALSE.

We can provide a converter box that takes the VSS signal and transfers this to a motor that will drive your original speedo cable.

If you want to see an install from start to finish, go to this link:
http://www.lateral-g.net/tech_articles/ats_t56_install/

If you have any other questions, please don't hesitate to call us.


Tyler