View Full Version : size of throwout bearing


cradfordchevy1
Jul 13th, 05, 03:41 PM
Can anyone help me out?

I have a muncie M20 and just got a new centerforce dual friction clutch for it.

I also got a new throwout bearing but it is shorter than the old one and was wondering if I need to use the long one with this clutch. Can I use the short one or not?

Thanks for any help.

pdq67
Jul 13th, 05, 05:48 PM
A diaphram PP uses a short t/o bearing and I don't know what a Long style and B&B PP use??

pdq67

cradfordchevy1
Jul 13th, 05, 06:46 PM
PDQ67,

What does the PP stand for and the B&B stand for.

I guess a diaphram clutch is one with all the fingers. what other clutches are there?

I am just learning here.

I got some directions with the clutch and it says to measure from the flat on the pivot point (which mine is adjustable) to the block saver plate and it is saying that you should have around 4.750".

From the crankshaft flange to the pivot point I am getting 5.883".

I am getting a much larger number. It would seem i would have to use the long throw out bearing but I would still like to get the right measurement before I put it all back together.

It says to measure the thickness of the flywheel and see if it is stock or aftermarket. Stock is .960" and I am getting .929".

You would then subtract that number from 4.750 and that would be the measurement from the pivot point flat to the back of the saver plate.

Any ideas?

Mark C
Jul 13th, 05, 06:51 PM
PP = Pressure Plate
B&B = Borg and Beck (usually a 3 finger style pressure plate)

cradfordchevy1
Jul 13th, 05, 07:49 PM
thanks Mark.

I still need to figure out if I have a different bellhousing than stock. It is made out of steel and I think maybey the stock housings were aluminum?

Does anyone know if the ring gear face would need to be machined if it has some heat checks on it. It still is flat and not warped at all. Do I need to machine it or can I leave it the way it is?

Thanks chris.