hey all im new to this site since i just got my first camaro 2 days ago :) i got 87 camaro sport coupe T-top for $500 and in virtually mint condition with a nice sound system . anyway to my point, whenever i start the car the engine idles at about 3500rpm for about 10 or so seconds then it slowly drops down to a 1000 rpm rate, and say im driving down the road and im at 3000rpm and i put it into neutral, the car still stays at 3000rpm and if i hit the gas the car revs higher and and goes no where but will slowly again in about 10 seconds go back to a normal rpm rate for neutral, this may be a bit confusing so if i need to rephrase it for you i will but im looking for a little help, i got a great car except for this problem.. thanks alot! :)

I know nothing about that car but I'd say maybe your auto choke is faulty. I'm sure someone else on here will be able to prove or disprove this.

Sounds like your accelerator is binding and returning very slowly. Cable, return spring, interference of some sort. Have someone rev your motor while the car is in PARK. Watch the throttle plate for it to return quickly. Rule this out first. Phil

Look at the return spring as was suggested. If it has the cable for the throttle linkage. It may need some silicone lubricant worked back into it to stopped the binding. Easiest way to check that is to disconnect it from the carb and work it by hand to see how free it is. Then spray some lube into it and slide it back and forth to work it in. Then reattatch and go for a spin.

Alright ill give that a try, so far everyone is telling me to check my throttle body cable to make sure my plate is closing all the way. I know that when im trying to open the TB manualy by the motor i have almost no resistance to get it open, will that cause any factors? I dont know if this will make a difference but my car is fuel injected? Thanks alot for the help, as always anymore suggestions or tips are welcome :)

Alright ill give that a try, so far everyone is telling me to check my throttle body cable to make sure my plate is closing all the way. I know that when im trying to open the TB manualy by the motor i have almost no resistance to get it open, will that cause any factors? I dont know if this will make a difference but my car is fuel injected? Thanks alot for the help, as always anymore suggestions or tips are welcome :)

Binding accel cable or the return spring is bad. But I think the return spring is wrapped around the throttle shaft. Perhaps it broke. Open with yoru hands and see if it snaps back.

Floor mat caught under the gas pedal?

Nope its not my floor mat cause i dont have any :) but i definatly think your right, when i turn my throttle fast and let go i can even hear my pedal moving and clunking back when i let go, so there is seriously no tension anywhere lol so i think we found my problem. If these parts are broken what parts am i looking at replacing exactly, and how much do they cost. Thanks!

I think it will probably be the base gasket for the TB is shot. This was common on that engine. Also could be your IAC motor is sticking.

Let us know!

Dave

ive heard somebody speak about the IAC before but they never really told me what it is, i found one link (http://www.krcperformance.com/newcontent/Throttle.html) but this is for an engine that keeps idling high, mine eventually goes down after 10 seconds or so. I think that first ill try spraying lubricant and checking the spring because i have no tension, then ill check the hasket cause i dont want to rip it apart if i dont have to, ive never worked on a TB before adjusting the cable or anything i feel at a loss, can any tell me a step by step on what to do or is there a link that could help me? Thanks

When ever I buy a car, I always get a repair manual for it. Two off the top of my head are Chiltons and the other is Haynes. Most auto parts stores carry them. They contain Basic Maint. Schedules and Step by step procedures to make repairs. A repair manual for your car is the Best tool in the toolbox. Phil

ok its been a few days and i got a throttle body, intake / mass airflow sensor from the wreckers, the tb is from an automatic 1990 firebird, but when i replaced it nothing changed my rpms still idled high for a few seconds before comming down. I had cleaned it all up too, so I think my tb is ok. I also changed my mass airflow sensor also from the 1990 firebird and it worked ok at first but my engine light came on (my old sensor didnt work and the engine light didnt come on, the new one seemed to be working but the engine light comes on) anyway, now the scrapyard sensor isnt workin as well and the engine light is still on :S sorry if i have confused anyone. I have no cable binding, both springs on both tb's snap back, what else could be the issure here? Some guy that came into my work said his car ran kinda rough with rpms and such and he replaced the wires and it worked. If anyone can give me anymore help it would mean so much im stumped!.. Thanks!

what engine are we talking about, here?
a TBI 305 will have a different setup than a TPI 305, and a V6 wil be different, as well.
if it is a TBI setup- a pair of injectors mounted on a 2 barrel throttle body in the middle of the intake- then try adding an extra return spring.
check for other vacuum leaks- it just may be as simple as a bad PCV valve. plug the hose to the PCV with a bolt and see if it works better. make sure all hoses are hooked up and in good shape.
spray carb cleaner around the throttle body and intake gaskets while it's idling and listen for a change in the way the car runs- when it changes, you've found the source of your leak. if that all checks out, then unhook the throttle cable from the throttle body and start it up. blip the throttle by hand a few times and see if the idle returns- if so, then something isn't right with either the cable or one of the brackets might have gotten bent or something.
always rule out the free, easy stuff before throwing $$$ at the problem in the form of parts you don't need.