What is the pinion angle for a first gen Camaro? I have a 1967 Camaro that was an original 327 powerglide car with 3.08 gears. I have since put a 350 in in it, turbo 350 tranny, u-joints, and 3.73 motive gears with an eaton posi. The tranny mount is in good shape and it has brand new 255/55/15 BF Goodwrench Radial T/A's out back. The car has subframe connectors and competition engineering traction bars. The car still has the original 8.2 10 bolt housing, axles, and driveshaft. I have a vibration that occurs at 30-35 mph at 1500ish rpms and again at 55-60 mph at 2500-2700 rpms. I have tried shimming the drivers side of the axle with a 2 degree competition engineering shim because the snubber on the traction bar was touching the leaf spring (mono leafs) on that side, but it made the traction bar angle worse instead of better and it made the passenger side touch the spring where it wasn't before. I put the shim under the front part of the driver's side axle and it is inserted all the way into the perch so that the hole lined up with the new leaf spring bushing. Please help me out as I am stumped.

I just read an article on that very subject in muslecar enthusiast. They say to put an angle gage on the front of your harmonic balancer to get the engine angle then put it on the front of the rear end(d/s yoke) and check the angles against each other. I believe it said they should be the same. I don't have the mag. here at home but i'll look at work just to make sure this is right. Just trying to help if i can

Tom

I would first say that both the transmission output and rear end pinion should both be on the same angle (Parallel, or as close as possible) The U joints should have an EQUAL (within 1 degree) AND OPPOSITE (to each other) ANGLE of no less than one degree and no more than 3 degrees. This is a perfect world setting, but we all know that's not always achievable. The closer can get close to these settings, the longer your U joints will last. The farther from these settings you go, the lifespan of the joints reduces and the vibrations associated with them increases. This doesn't mean that you will have a vibration you can feel if you are not right on these specs. Just that you have to get as close as you can. Another thing to consider is spring wrap. This is a very important thing to consider. There have been a lot of people who have mis diagnosed a drive shaft vibration and have blamed the drive shaft when it isn't the problem at all. When accelerating and decelerating the pinion angle changes. Accelerating pinion goes up, decelerating pinion goes down. This changes the U joint angle drastically. Especially at the rear. If your springs are weak or if you have a lot of horsepower with good traction, this can be a real problem because as angle changes the vibration gets worse. Try to get your angles as close as you can then worry about stabilizing the rear end if it becomes an issue. Have a look at the link here. It should help you further.
http://www.drivetrain.com/driveline_angle_problem.html

Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it. I was referred to this board by one of my friends that works at Ricks First Generation. I'm glad I found out about this place :beers:

Glad to help out!