Hey guys,

I have a little different set up than stock on my 67 that my be causing my problem . . .

Optima Yellow Top Bat

Negative lead thru firewall grommet into glove box - Bat disconnect switch in box - back out thru firewall grommet to engine block

Positive lead to Ford style remote solenoid on firewall - then into TCI mini starter

The set up works, but occasionally a gremlin shows it ugly face

Problem - again occasionally - when I go to start the car the starter continues to spin and does not disengage

I have to quickly twist the glove box bat disconnect switch to shut the car down. With the key out of the ignition if I go to twist the bat disconnect the car try to start - again no key in the ignition.

I have even pulled the ignition block from the wiring harness and experienced the same thing.

Finally if I let the car sit awhile everything goes back to normal and the problem goes away only to come back a few days, maybe a few weeks or months later.

Is this a starter problem. . a solenoid problem . . .a short or a wiring problem?

Somehow my starter is maintaining power

Any advice of troubleshooting would be appreciated.

Thanks

Sounds like the starter drive is sticking in the flywheel/flex plate. When it's extended, the soleniod will make contact between the 'S' terminal and the battery cable lug. That equals 'starter cranking'

Hey Mike,

Not sure I follow you . . . when the power is removed the starter shaft should disengage . . . if it is stuck in the extended position in contact with the flywheel how does it automatically pull the power.

Are you saying that being in contact with the flywheel is completing the circuit somehow?

How is this happening with the ignition key removed?

Thanks for your thoughts

John

John, when the solenoid is activated, it causes the starer drive to extend into the flywheel/flexplate. By the same token, if the starter drive is fully extended, it causes the solenoid to be in the 'start' position. It connects the battery lug and 'S' lug inside the solenoid. If power is supplied, the starter will crank. Turn the power off, it stops. Turn the power back on, it cranks again. Then once the starter drive pops back out of the ring gear, everything will be normal again. Next time it does this, crawl under it and see if the starter is engauged. If it is, then the starter needs to be repositioned so as to allow the drive to return when the key is released from the start position.
This may not be the problem, but it sounds like it. Plus it doesn't cost anything to check it.

Hey Mike
I'm a little dated here repying back to you . . but you nailed it
It was the drive extension sticking
That contact kept the starter going
A little tap from a rubber mallet droped it back in
I added a thin shim between the starter and the block and the problem is gone
Thanks alot for the direction
John

Do you have the starter brace installed from the forward end of the armature case to the bolt hole in the side of the block? If not, you're going to have the same problem again, and probably crack the starter nose too.

Hey John Z,

Thanks for the reply. The Stater is an aftermarket TCI mini starter. Two bolts hold it to the block. No bracket used with this starter.

Do you see any problems with this set up? Any suggestions to make it better would be appreciated?

Thanks

John