: Just got my 2004R in what temp should I be at?
MStennes Aug 12th, 05, 11:09 PM Well I just got my CPT 200R4 installed and TV set but my old 700R4 never ran over 195 and this 200R4 runs about 205-210 which I think is wAAAAy to hot. What should it run at? I'm running a Be Cool radiator with the built in cooler but I'm thinking I need a auxillary cooler also. Does anyone make a aluminum one that will blend in with my radiator? Also can I use both coolers?
Thaks,
Mike
BlackoutSteve Aug 12th, 05, 11:27 PM Did you switch stall converters? They are usually responsible for making most of the heat.
Any kinks or blockages in your cooler lines?
Stupid question but is the heat exchanger on in your BeCool radiator in the return tank like it should be?
Anyway, you can run both coolers but why the extra plumbing?
You can't really over-cool transmission fluid like you can engine oil. The colder (within reason), generally the better for longevity. Your fluid will last longer and your seals will seal and remain supple for longer too.
MStennes Aug 13th, 05, 06:47 AM Yes I did I went from a 2400 or so lockup to a 2900 non lock up. The old converter was about a 12" and the is a 9" or 10" I beleve.
Thanks,
Mike
JimM Aug 13th, 05, 07:21 AM The only ride I have with a trans temp guage is my truck... it came with an external cooler as well. I have never seen that guage over 150, and it takes a couple hours on a hard twisty road to get that high.
click Aug 13th, 05, 08:24 AM Its pricey but you might consider synthetic auto. tranny fluid, it runs cooler and dispurses heat faster thus it runs cooler. If interested shoot me an email for a link and info. :)
BPOS Aug 13th, 05, 10:11 AM Where is your temp sender located? It should be in the pan.
210 in the pan is way too hot. Run as big an auxillary cooler as you can fit - route the lines so the fluid enters the bottom fitting on the radiator, exits the top fitting, then to your aux cooler, then back to the trans.
Mine runs 170 at the very hottest, but usually below 150. I use the radiator cooler only, and have lockup, with a fairly tight converter.
BPOS Aug 13th, 05, 11:40 AM Hey Mike -
What pan are you using on your 200? The stock set-up is notorious for poor scavenging in the pan. The 2004R filter has the intake hole on the top (dumb), and under hard acceleration the filter can become uncovered causing really crappy shifts and is bad for the trans. This happened to me a couple of times, so I got an Art Carr deep aluminum pan, with modified filter stands, and run a 4L60 filter.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v61/gort69/DSCN1845.jpg
http://www.drwtransmission.com/catalog/modified_art_carr_cast_aluminum_pan_for_the_thm_20 0-4r_1811089.htm
http://www.drwtransmission.com/thm_200-4r.htm
It works great! But I see the price has gone up a bit.
I just drilled and tapped the side of the pan for the temp sender. (1/8 NPT as I recall)
Xx-007-xX Aug 13th, 05, 01:26 PM I just got my 200R4 tranny from Place called Bowtie Overdrives :hurray: I know absolutly nothing about trannies and that is the main reason that I went with them, because of the customer support. first of all the paperwork states that the tranny should not go above 150 degrees and that if your radiator(assuming you have a stock one)is is decent shape, then it should be more then sufficiant for keeping it at that temp, and that they dont recommend auxhilary coolers, and that in a last resort situation a separate cooler has its proper place.
This place specializes in ONLY overdrives. If you go to www.BowtieOverdrives.com you will find all kinds of usfull information about your 200R4. They have spent the last decade on trial and errors with these trannies. They test and record temperatures, pressures, and all other pertanant info on every tranny they sell. They actually put each and everyone of them into a test car and put them through the motions before selling them, thats how thorough these people are. And when it comes time when I actually am going to run the tranny(heck it may be a year from now when I do get it running)then that is when the warranty starts, because I have to call them and give them all the pressure readings, temp readings, TV cable setup, lockup wiring and cooling line orientation, etc.. and then they compare all that with what they have on file for the warranty to be effective. I hope that this info helps you out......007
MStennes Aug 13th, 05, 02:16 PM 007,
My last tranny that failed and I might ad was a BTO. I know them well! I hope they do better on their 2004R than the 700R4. After my failure I decided to upgrade and went CPT. Service was just as good, questions were answered. Yes I know what BTO says about not using a cooler but when your temps hit 200+ you need one, my temp stays ok but when I get aggressive it goes up quick. So this weekend will be low and slow. By the way I'm running a Be Cool BB radiator with a Taurus fan and have no cooling issues other than the tranny. I plan on running both coolers.
Thanks,
Mike
Xx-007-xX Aug 16th, 05, 03:42 PM WeLL Mike- its too late for me now, the 200R4 is sitting in my garage, so I'll just have to hope for the best.
I started a thread in here about three to four weeks ago, and waited a while and One senior tech in here helped me out and pointed the way to BTO, so thats the way I went and it seems affordable to go with them, compared to most other places I checked.
The moment that I start running the tranny, is the moment that the warranty starts, and that runs for a year. Believe me, I am for sure going to put it through its motions, and Im going to throw everything I can muster up at it to make sure that it is going to hold up.
:clonk: I think you right about needing an extra cooler on it, I for sure am going to keep a strong eye on the temp in that thing..........007
William van Hulst Aug 21st, 05, 10:23 AM This is going to sound nutty to some. May make sense to others. Have had some experiences with cooling fans coming on at well over 200 degrees and have therefore gone to using ones I can trust. Almost any with a reasonable reputation, other than stock. The fact that the cooling fans may well be coming on late and then the other notoriously useless stock fans that dont turn out enough cfm are some simple contributing factors to the tranny running hot. Some may well be installing really nice radiators and thinking this is the only solution needed. I would do all else first or do all at once.
Simple enough, in many cases, the radiator actually heats the tranny fluid. If a seperate cooler were in use, the fluid would not have the ?advantage? of being heated by the radiator? Of course I am in a warm climate and do not need the winter advantage that I suggest might exist in running the factory cooling line system. I always go to seperate coolers.
Believe me, there is ALSO an advantage to having very consistent temps to deal with. The factory is not doing anything wrong. They deal with totall consistency under all conditions no matter where their product may be sold or travel. The modern catalytic engine has to run that hot and the whole design is based on that system. I am also in a situation where stock is not on the agenda at all.
If racing is what you have in mind, install the coolers and the gauge. If you are looking for stock, then use all stock parts and make sure yours stock parts are working to the correct standards. If all you need is an occasional race or heavy duty capability, then add a cooler in line, with radiator, using both, and all so check your fan relay operation and temp. Perhaps add a better fan.
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