I'm looking at purchasing a 1967 or 1968 Camaro convertible. Could someone please tell me what the trouble spots are on these cars? Where should I look for rust? What components tend to not work? Thanks!

rust is probably one of the biggest problems in any 1st gen. look for rusted areas in the trunk, rear quarter, floorpan, dash by the a pillars, etc. i guess it would depend on how he is representing the car as, how much he is offering it for and how much work you are willing to do to the car that will determine if you like the car or not. if he is advertising it as a rusted car and you are willing to buy it knowing this, well, im sure you will be happy. but if he is saying it is rust free, look very closely for those rusted areas. look at the front subframe and see if the area where the bumper supports bolt to. if its bent, its probably had a good frontal impact. also, check the rear inside the trunk. oyu will see two braces on eeach side on the rear inside the trunk at almost a 45 degree. they should be equal distances and aligned. if not, it probably had a good rear impact unless these items have been changed and if they were, then it might be a good thing.

angel

Could someone please tell me what the trouble spots are on these cars?
Where should I look for rust?
What components tend to not work? Thanks!

1. The only real trouble spots are anywhere water has gotten into anywhere on the car in the last 30+ years...
Not knowing where you are located (it's not in your sig for some reason??? ) it's hard to tell what the car has gone through in it's life, and where the first places to look would be.
But, even 'Kalifoeniea' cars have rust... :thumbsup:

2. The first place to look is the trunk. Most of the water that overflowed or leaked from the Rain Gutter, that is located at the lower edge of the top just under the trim in the Well area, will end up in the trunk and start rust there.
Some of the water may also get into the Rear Seat Pans and Floor area. Rust may also begin to show up there early.
The other common areas such as the Front Floor Pans and Rear Quarters are also prone to rust if water leaked past bad or worn seals, just as on the Coupes.
Rust in the front sheet metal is also common. But, since these parts are readily available and easily replaced it is not a big problem.

3. Mostly the Mechanical and Electrical systems... :D
It's hard to say, not knowing anything about a cars past life and care.
The engine on a 30 year old car with any milage on it has probably been repaired/replaced/rebuilt several times. It may or may not be in a servicable cycle at this time - you will have to judge that on each car.
The same would go for the transmission.
The rear ends on these cars are very sturdy but, do show their age eventually. I have seen 'drivers' in use that still have their original untouched rearends with over 250,000 miles. They were obviously serviced and maintained over the years to go that far.
If the car has been modified for any performance use over the years the wear would be accelerated.

Since drive train modification and replacement is so common on these cars, parts and services are very easy to find to tailor the vehicle to your needs at very reasonable prices.
I would not worry to much about driveline condition unless you are looking for a 'Numbers Matching' collectors type vehicle. Then you must evaluate it's condition and document the components to be sure you are getting what you pay for.

For a Convertible, the condition and operation of the Top Mechanism is the most important issue you would need to look at.
These tops are well engineered and usually work fine. But, if there is extensive rusting of the top components and/or problems with operation, it is very hard to find replacement parts and someone who can adjust the system to get it working correctly again.
The top material and replacement windows, seals and ect. are readily available but, should be in good shape so they would have protected the interior and other parts below them.

Electrical stuff always seems to go bad sooner on a 'rag-top' than a coupe.
You should check the condition of all the components in and behind the dash for excess exposure to moisture and operation.
It is common to see rewiring to accommodate newer sound systems and other options on these cars. Look for the condition of the wiring and to be sure there is not so much 'modification' that a whole new loom and extra work will be required to return the system to normal. Electrical work done by professional shops can get very pricey - very quickly...

The Interiors of convertibles obviously gets more 'weather exposure' than a coupe.
Parts to replace most of the coverings and soft parts are available.
Structural parts, such as seat frames, supports and springs, are not as available and donor parts can get pricey if such things need to be replaced.

I know others will chime-in with their input also.

Best bet would be for you to do some looking and then get back to us with what you found and we'll go from there with advise :thumbsup:

Hope this helps;
John

Trouble Areas:
Rust:
1. Quarter panels (wheel lip and lower rear)
2. Shock Towers (rear)
3. Dash (at windshield)
4. Windshield header (under molding)
5. Front fenders (lower rear0
6. Floor Boards
7. Trunk
8. Rockers (look up at from ground and from seat belt mounts)

Never works:
1. rs headlight doors
2. rear window regulators

Check gaps at doors, hood, and trunk to find sagging and previous repair "issues"

Write down or take photo of cowl tag/VIN and post here - there are experts here can spot a fake and will let you know before you get burned.

+

1. Verify that the door glass is correct (conv has their own glass and the top will not close correct if the hardtop glass is used)
2. Has the X brace and vibration dampners. The dampners you can't get repro so make sure the car has them.
3. Back seat is only for converts too. Don't think you can use a hardtop back seat interior in a conv.
4. If important that the car has AC. I know my wife hates hot days driving w/ the top down and no AC.
5. and crooks.

Thanks for all the good info guys. I feel much more comfortable now about buying a convertible. It's always the unknowns that scare you. I feel that I can look and buy with confidence. I'll get the trim tag info and post it in that area prior to committing on anything. Thanks again!!!

It seems some ragtops just get weak, even without visible or findable rust. Jack the car by the ends of the rockers, all four corners one at a time. Look at the door and fender gaps for any movement, and make sure the doors still open and close smoothly.