Have you ever climb Mt Everest? Jumped out of a plane? Swam the English Channel? Well, you haven't done anything until you've removed the passenger side exhaust manifold off of a big block, A/C, 69 RS Camaro! All this with the engine in the car. I thought pulling the plug (#8) or the plug wire was hard, or tightening the valve cover. You see, the clearance you have against the A/C suitcase is big enough to think you could get a socket/wrench on the back manifold bolt, but small enough where the original design engineers are laughing while laying in their graves!
I originally said RS Camaro because at one point you will think about removing the fender, but after looking at the headlight crap, you soon are back to believing there is a secret #8 exhaust BB manifold super socket. :mad: There's none that I know of.

So for you guys that want to try this at home, I found a solution, almost like a secret passage-way the engineers acidentally left on the car.

For the TC archives here it is: If you combine every extention you have in your tool box, you can actually go up through a small hole (big enough for a 9/16 socket in an area just below the inner wheel well. This area is directly down from the back manifold bolt at the same angle the bolt travels into the head. It is a perfect straight line from the bolt out under the wheel well. You need about 16" of extention (we all wish we had that much extention huh :D ). This took me about ten seconds to remove the bolt after about an hour and a half of frustration! :clonk:

You say that like the original engineers are long gone. Well, I have reason to believe they are not, and are indeed still up to their old "tricks". I put plug wires on my daily driver yesterday...I figured after 135K miles what the heck ('95 chevy lumina 3.4DOHC). I can honestly say I have never bled that much changing wires on any 10 other cars in my life. You have to remove the *(&^$^ power steering pump to route the wires to the back 3 cylinders! Thankfully though they had enough foresite to make all the sharp edges a lot cleaner instead of jagged like a lot of older cars. This way my hands look like they are covered with paper cuts and will take a lot longer to heal properly :clonk:

Ever change plugs on an LS1? :D

I recall a certain Buick v6 that had me speaking French for an afternoon :angry:

Dano

1985 GMC S-15 4X4 2.8 V6 Automatic , tight no room and the metal was like razor blades where it was stamped. Go read some of my old posts about that POS , may it die a slow death in a Pick a Part for the misery that thing caused me.

Thanks for the tip!! I will make a mental note........got it! :D Now hopefully when I am in the same situation I will be able to recall that trick.....um, how did that go again! :clonk:

I used to change sparkplugs in the wife's '89 Astro 4.3L Van either using several long extensions through the wheelwell right above the frame and through the upper A-arm points like mentioned OR laying flat on my back and going straight up at arms length with a 3/8" ratchet and short extension and deepwell!

PAIN in you know where!!

BUT I never ceased to get mad everytime I changed oil in any of the 4-banger Cavaliers we had through the years b/c I always had to pull the pass side front tire and go in that way after removing a couple of plastic and metal shields! Then unscrew the filter AND turn it so the oil spilled out all over everything AND I never did get an answer form any Mechanic that changed them how he did it any differently to keep from making a mess!!!

Bad, BAD , BAD!!!!

Just one more reason I ain't buying GM!!

pdq67

I am now going to mention Fords, but dont just chastize me yet. Im not speaking of them in a good light.

68 390, Ford any model. You cant even touch most of the exhaust manifold bolts, much less get a tool on them. Even through some act of god that you did, there would be no way to actually remove it from the vehicle. And 8 brake lines into the proportioning valve!?!? And you cant get to those either without removing the booster/mc. Actually cant get to much of anything, especially since you cant take the front clip "doghouse" apart to gain some room.

Can you tell Im working on one of these right now? :o

From my previous job: Try changing plugs/wires on a newer 4cyl Ranger. What 4cyl needs 8 plugs, several of which are just about impossible??

Changing heater cores are a real fun time in most any vehicle.

And Dan, I know what you mean about the Buick V6s. I know several with them, and they'll just change 5 if they can get by with it, in order to avoid that one thats impossible.

I'm sure theres more instances of "impossibilities" that Im not thinking of right now. They usually just come down to screwing with it long enough, you'll eventually get it.

dave

Third Gen Camaro/Firebird, cut a 2 inch diameter hole behind the strut to gain access to #8 spark plug.

Early 60's full size Chrysler's, easy access plugs from underneath, or any Chrysler with BB, 361, 383, 426 Wedge, 440.

Sixty-seven to 69 Mustang with a BBF to change plugs, flat rate time 4 hours.

GM's G-body heater core swapout, easiest one I've ever on any car/truck, done from the engine compartment, 1 hour.

Help my brother inlaw removed the heater core from his 89 mustang started at 8 in the morning finised at 8 at night! Dealer wanted 700.00 dollars.Why?Had to remove the center console the box the heater was in and the dash not just the dash board but the dash to get the box out unbelievable!It was about 150 scews two cups full,when we did get it back together we still had half a cup of scews did not know where they came from.He stood up and threw them in the woods.What fun that was!HAA week later he trade that thing in on a chevy blazer.

I am now going to mention Fords, but dont just chastize me yet. Im not speaking of them in a good light.

dave

:D He said the "F" word :waving:

It's okay Dave - we have a couple Furd's in the family fleet.
I just changed the plugs in the 'Exploder' the other day and the last two on the passenger's side are a real Beeoch... I also now have two nice 'slices' above my left wrist - you know, just above where the "Mechanic" gloves end... :sad:
Luckly I heal fast and the grease helps prevent infections... :thumbsup:

My kids have to help me when I service their cars - gives us good "quality time" at least once a month ;)
My oldest daughter now brings numerous expensive gifts to get me to do the plugs and oil filter on her V-6 Olds Calais, after having to change them by herself once... :D

Now if you are really looking for a challenge - try changing plugs on a late 70's Porsche 911-Turbo sometime - even those late 70's Monza V-8's were easier... :clonk:

Scars are good; :thumbsup:
John

So for you guys that want to try this at home, I found a solution, almost like a secret passage-way the engineers acidentally left on the car.

For the TC archives here it is: If you combine every extention you have in your tool box, you can actually go up through a small hole (big enough for a 9/16 socket in an area just below the inner wheel well.

Hey! I could have told you that! Why didn't you ask? :D :D

Yes it took 25 min on my 99 Corvette. Easier than my truck or my BB 69 Camaro.

Vans... Oughhhh.. Dont mention the Vans..... I now refuse to do any work on them because of a bad astro vans water pump I cranked on for hours......

It should be considered a swear word as far as im concerned...

[QUOTE=Everett#2390]

Sixty-seven to 69 Mustang with a BBF to change plugs, flat rate time 4 hours.

You should try a 70 stang with a 460 and headers! there are no words to discribe it :angry:

I recall a certain Buick v6 that had me speaking French for an afternoon :angry:

Dano

No dogbone mount to remove so you could bump the engine forward?

Ever try a 67 nova 327 factory a/c and Cal smog equip? It's underneath with open ends and sockets with a nut>

Ive built a 67 Nova before, but without the engine.

EVERYTHING is a bolt with a nut on the back on those cars. :rolleyes:

You would think that captive/welded nuts hadnt been invented yet. PITA

dave

Still haven't been able to get the center rear plug out of my wife's 96 Ford Windstar after 93,000 miles. Figure the only way to get at it is to lower the whole front chassis with the engine attached about 2".

Ever change a hydralic tube line on a bobcat ?
Had to cut 4 wrenchs and dislocate my arm.

Not really hard to do but very messy. I just changed the oil and filter on my 05 Silverado 2500HD 4x4. 3" exhaust pipe runs about 4" behind drain plug. When you pull the plug you get oil down your arm and then the oil hits the exhaust and makes a nice wide fan , only half goes in the drain pan.:rolleyes:

As a mechanic I see all makes and models daily and it is VERY difficult sometimes to understand what the engineers were thinking about when they designed these cars and trucks.I know they are more efficient,but they are a pain to work on.Plugs and wires on an Lt1 car are unreal,Ls1 cars are a little better though.Plugs and wires on a 5.4 ford they must have been an after thought,espicially on an SUV with dual air.Fast Fred mentioned heater cores Im not gonna go there cause its Saturday and Im not gonna get POed,what were they thinking??A Monterro has to have the upper plenum pulled to put plugs and wires on (v-6) as do several other cars.Some Cadillacs have to have the intake pulled to replace the starter.I will agree that the new cars are more efficient but they are not mechanic friendly at all.I feel better now.

He, He!!

We didn't keep our new '75, Chevy Monza 2+2 long enough to have to raise the drivers side of the motor to change the plug right across from the P/S gearbox!

And as for an Astro Van's water pump, they are easy to pull once you get the bottom of the fan shroud off from underneath!

I was at the Public Library one time reading an issue of a mag. that was actually a Garage Mechanic's mag! It had a story in it with ten questions like which one is the one that... sorta thing AND the last question was which car was the one you had to pull the motor on to replace the timing belt on!

AND darn-it!! The answer was ripped out so I never got to find out which car it was!! BUT I think it was a NorthStar Cad. Allente, but not sure!

pdq67

1972 Dodge Charger R/T 440 Magnum, factory a/c. You had to unbolt the motormount on the drivers side, and jack the engine up in order to change #8 sparkplug. It was a disaster. WHO designs (and who approves) these engineering nightmares?

[QUOTE=Everett#2390]

Sixty-seven to 69 Mustang with a BBF to change plugs, flat rate time 4 hours.

You should try a 70 stang with a 460 and headers! there are no words to discribe it :angry:

POOPY; Boy this brings back memories. My first "real" car was a 1969 428CJ Mustang. After modifying some expensive tools, the inner fender on the drivers side, and using a 12" length of 3/8ths rubber hose, I was able to change plugs in about an hour. I bought a set of Cyclone headers for it, and 2 days later had them installed only to find out they were for an automatic and not a 4 speed!! I'm still cursing the guy at the speed shop for that one. No wonder I switched to Chevrolet. That was the last F*^d I ever owned.