I am in the midst of installing the Moog K6099 idler arm on my car. I noticed that the Moog shaft is not tapered like the original unit.

Is installation just a matter of cranking down the nut untill the idler is seated? There seems to be a lot of effort required, & I don't want to screw up the threads.

Paul :beers:

It has to be torqued to aprox 35 ft lbs if I remember right, then tighten more to align the cotter pin hole. Keep the idler to frame bolts loose until the stud to center link nut is tight, otherwise there can be a bind.

Thanx David.

I think I'll use a torque wrench as a guide. The threaded part of the idler isn't all the way through yet, & with a 10 inch rachet it is already very tight.

Do you know how strong the threads on the shaft & nut are?

Paul.

p.s. you suspension pages have been a lot of help to me through this rebuild.

Make sure you have the correct thread nut for the arm. The only thing holding it from seating should be the seal on the idler arm. Mis-alignment is a common problem when changing idler arms on a first gen, that's why I want the frame bolts left loose until the idler is seated in the center link.

The threaded part should not go all the way through the center link, if it did, the nut would bottom out on the sholder and not hold it. There should be enough sticking through to go completely through the nut and have a cotter pin clear the notch in the nut.

David,

I do have the correct nut (test fit first).

I am assembling on the work bench, maybe I'll do it on car. Front end is off & engine is out so I have lots of room.

I just thought that there was too much effort required to seat the stud.

I still find it odd that the stud on the new idler is not tapered. If I insert it from the other side of the centre link, the threaded portion fits in the hole of course, but the machined part is obviously too large (& I'm sure it should be in order to do it's job). It just seems that the stud is not going to seat all of the way into the centre link.

One other thing, there is a felt washer supplied with the new arm. Does that go between the nut & centre link?

Thanx again,

Paul :beers: :beers:

I was doing a search on this felt washer and came across this question which was never answered: anyone know the answer to where this felt washer goes? Thanks!!!!

:beers:

<Some snipped>

One other thing, there is a felt washer supplied with the new arm. Does that go between the nut & centre link?

Thanx again,

Paul :beers: :beers:

The felt washer acts as a dust shield as far as I can tell and it goes on the threaded end before nut I think.

Last time I did this job was about 1971 or so. The original idler was shot, car still under warranty. No way I was going to replace it with the same flimsy factory part. Same Moog still there and going strong.

The felt washer acts as a dust shield as far as I can tell and it goes on the threaded end before nut I think.

Thanks HD!

Anyone confirm this? Just trying to make sure I do it right the first time...

TIA!

Thanks HD!

Anyone confirm this? Just trying to make sure I do it right the first time...

TIA!

Just to let anyone else know that might be interested, I just got off the phone with a tech at PST and he indicated that the felt washer goes between the idler arm and the drag link.

Just to let anyone else know that might be interested, I just got off the phone with a tech at PST and he indicated that the felt washer goes between the idler arm and the drag link.

That is exactly what I was trying to say. It is a dust shield.:)

If I'm not mistaken the earlier ones (my 67 has rubber boot) had rubber boot seal/grease retainer so dust shield probably aint technically correct. I don't why it would have changed, I think rubber works better.



I replaced idler arm on my 86 truck not long ago it also has felt washer.

If I'm not mistaken the earlier ones (my 67 has rubber boot) had rubber boot seal/grease retainer so dust shield probably aint technically correct. I don't why it would have changed, I think rubber works better.



I replaced idler arm on my 86 truck not long ago it also has felt washer.

You are correct, they used to have a rubber boot and thus my state of confusion. What the tech told me (and not my personnel experience) was that they found that the felt washer lasted longer than the boot for that specific application. I assumed it probably had something to do with range of motion (for lack of a better word) that the boot had to deal with at that point as opposed to other places a rubber boot is used where they only move a little. At least that's what I'm going with so I feel better! ;) Not sure how long felt would last, but since this car will never see snow again and only see rain if we get caught in it I suspect it will last for another 40 years, at which point I will no longer care! :D (Probably)

That is exactly what I was trying to say. It is a dust shield.:)

Sorry, I took what you said to mean between the drag link and the nut, not the drag link and the idler arm. I was sure you were correct about the dust shield, I just wasn't clear where to put it. :cool: I'm still not 100% convinced on the felt washer thingy anyhow, but we'll see!

The felt washer goes between the idler arm and center link. A washer has been used there for years and years by Moog. I put an idler arm on my wife's 73 Camaro and it's already gone! It was not felt, it was a foam type material.

I'm quite concerned about the taper not fitting the center link. The taper should match the hole in the center link or it won't stay tight.
David
David

David,

My mistake for not posting this a long time ago.

The first replacement part was defective. The stud on the idler arm was not machined to the proper size. After getting a replacement for the arm from the same supplier, the parts went together as it should. I was quite surprized though at the original MOOG part not fitting. I have used Moog suspension parts for over 30 years without any problems. I did not look to see if the part is manufatured off shore or not. Maybe it was just a fluke.

The felt washer was installed as you described. So far so good.

I really do have to remember to come back & post the final results after running into parts problems.

Paul :beers: