how do i remove convertible top hydraulic cylinder?

Welcome to the forum John!

Need to know a little more info about exactly what you're trying to do. Do you know where the lift cylinders are located, have everything disassembled, and just can't get the clyinders off? Or, has one or both stopped working, you have no idea where they are, and need to start from square one?

Hi There,

Thanks for answering. In the Fisher Service Manual 1968, it states to remove the inner and outer bolts securing the cylinder to the male hinge. I have removed the bolts, however one of the bolts will not come out of the cylinder because there is no room for it to move. The top of the cylinder, where the bolt is that won't come out, is up against both the interior of the car and a flange looking thing that will not move to allow the bolt to come free.

I hope this helps. If not, can we talk by phone?

I am looking at pictures from my 68, trying to figure out what's holding you up.

I'm still a little confused as to which bolt is giving you trouble. I think there's one through the body of the car and the middle of the cylinder, around which the cylinder rotates. Then there's one at the top where the ram bolts to the top frame. Is that the one that is giving you fits?

If that's the one, is the top up or down. If it's down, that's your problem. You have to remove that bolt with the top up or partially up.

Hi Again,

The bolt at the top of the rod has been removed. The bolts in question are the two that bolt into the top of the cylinder, referred to as the inner and outer bolts on page 13-29 of the 1968 service manual Body by Fisher, and they secure the cylinder to the male hinge, again, according to the service manual, same page, figure 13-66.

I need to know how to remove the one next to the body of the car. Year One says the car I have is an "F" body if that matters.

Thanks again.

PS: The covertible top is up.

John

Okay, I have the 68 Fisher manual in front of me, and I see what you are talking about. I don't remember having that inner bolt out when I replaced the cylinders in my 68, but it has been almost 10 years since I did it. I seem to remember that if you have the bolt inside the car out and the one out against the body completely loosened, the cylinder will rotate enough to get it off the bolt near the body. It couldn't have been too bad if it didn't stick in my mind.

Eric,

Thanks. I have tried to rotate it without putting a lot of pressure on the cylinder. I will try to rotate it in a different manner and method. Thanks again. I will let you know.

John

Hi Again,

WE DID IT!!!! We tightened the male hinge bolts back up and the cylinder was then moved far enough away from the inner panel that we could get the cylinder(s) out. We may be back in touch if we run into trouble when we put the new cylinders (that we have to order) back in.

Thanks so much for your help, John and I really appreciate your time.

John & Jo Jones

Glad you guys got it! When I bought the 68, the top didn't work. I had to put a pump, lines, and new cylinders in before it would work. As I said, the cylinder job didn't scar my brain for life, so I figured there was a trick I have forgotten. Team Camaro didn't exist then so I must have figured it out on my own. Nothing better than unlatching and pushing the switch to drop the top!

Try taking your old cylinders to a local hydraulic shop and see about repair. The ONLY reason I have not been able to repair the old cylinders has been when the shaft (ram) has become rusty. If the chrome on the shaft is good I have always been able to repair the leaking and non working lift cylinders locally.