I have just about had it with my headers leaking at the collector.

Anyone around here convert their headers and exhaust pipes to the Ball/Socket style connector?

http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/products/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=2320

C,
Cant help you on the ball and socket deal but .... I have found that most header leaks at the collector / reducer are due to the fact that the attaching "ring" is not welded to the header, allowing movement and destruction of the gasket. If your headers and exhaust system do not have the ring welded to them to keep it from moving, give it a try and see if it helps. All it takes is a couple of spot welds.

cut the 3 bolt flanges off and put a band clamp around it.
of course, it will only work if you have a couple inches of 3" pipe on the reducer before it necks down. most reducers neck down right away, so the band clamp won't work.

Hey Funk, I want to do that too so I hope someone will answer on this one.

if you do go the ball/socket route, don't bother ordering the Flowmaster part.
any decent exhaust shop will have them for less, and will install them pretty cheap

Also, if you're going thu all this, it's been my experience that if the exhaust system is hung properly and the headpipes are at the right angle, these gaskets won't fail. The flange on the pipe needs to just touch the header flange, square and straight, not too tight not too loose, with the bolts removed.

Have you tried the "copper" or "dead soft alluminum" gaskets? I'm using these and they work GOOD!

As Bill mentioned above, welding the 3 hole ring to the header will help. I welded mine all the way around, and in doing so the metal ring warped inward away from the gasket sealing area. This was not a problem as the first time I tightened them up, they pulled up square against the gasket, and being bent inward kind of lets them act as a locking system for the bolts. The bolts WILL not rattle loose this way as there is constant tension on them. Since doing it this way, I have yet to pop a collector gasket. The ball & socket idea may be even tricker, but welding the rings works pretty darn well.

One note, just make certain that you line eveything up before you start welding the rings to the pipe. If you have a misalignment, it could make connecting the pipes under the car very interesting.

Since I welded mine, I have found that the cheap paper gaskets work without flaw. No need for expensive copper, or the insert type, or none of that high-dollar jazz. Plain ole simple paper gaskets are the ticket.

Have fun!

oh yes, on my hooker comps, they came with the rings fully welded

That is the problem. The exhaust wasn't hung correctly. When unbolted fromt the header the pipes don't line up with the collector. I typically have to loosen the header and man handle everything to get it to line up. I have used the copper gaskets in the past with good luck.

Maybe I will take it into a local muffler shop and get some advice on whether or not the pipes can be adjusted to fit.

That sounds like the best idea, Chris. If the pipes line up, the gaskets won't fail. The ball joints could correct for some mis-alignment, but it might be cheaper to just have the front foot of the pipes cut off and redone correctly, if it takes even that. More likely, they can lay a torch on the pipe, soften it up a lil, and lean on it till it fits.