Hey everyone,

Sorry to have to post ANOTHER "vin decode help" post, but I'm going to look at an all origional 55K mile '68 RS/SS 396 TH400 #'s matching car tomorrow (9/27).

I went to the camaros.org site and started reading the decode stuff.
The owner is someone I know and has owned the car since '80. He's an honest mechanic and said the numbers match. He said the paint has a few scratches and scuffs but no dents or rust. What is a good price if it is as described??
What should I bring? What should I look at? What #'s are the most important to get?

Welcome to the site

A good place to start would be to get the drive train info...the axle code , trans info (passenger side 2x3 inch plate on the vertical side of the trans) and the engine info..the pad in front of the passenger side head..Cowl tag and VIN info. It would be great to have pictures of the information too...it would also be nice to know what options the car has to help get an opinion from everyone as to what the car is worth.

With the number of fakes showing up, some done years ago, possibly even without the knowledge of the current owner, be sure to check the hidden VIN. You can usually see it thru the pass side cowl vent, use a flashlight. also check and post the block casting #, drivers side behind the head, you need to look down between the firewall and the back of the hood to see it.

If the hidden vin, dash vin, and stamped vin on the pass side front of the motor match, it should be OK.

Different people have different definitions for "the numbers match".

For some, this is as simple as only the block vin matching the body vin. This is what the average Joe means.

For others (and the real definition), this means that all parts with vin stampings match the body vin, all part #'s are the same as the original part #'s (including the pulley part #'s, the intake part #, the carb part #, rear end part #, etc) and the date codes are correct for the build date of the car. The "numbers" are the vin stamps, the part #'s and the date codes.

Thanks for the quick replies guys. I'll be going over in 8 hours to check it out. He did tell me it has a working clock in the tach, fold down rear seat, console guages, lower body trim, molded arm rests, etc....
I can see this will take some time. Am I going to need a floor jack to get under the trans and rear axle to see the #'s? Probably a rag and some solvent for cleaning the area?
How much time would you plan on taking to do this??

BTW, I have a flashlight, little telescoping mirror, rags and cleaner, floor jack, and paper & pencil (for rubbing transfer if not readable). Oh yea, AND a digital camera. I'll check back here before I head out then again after I'm done to report what I found.
Thanx guys!!

A little brass brush is what I use to clean the numbers. I always bring them to swap meets.

As far as time, that depends. If the guy is claiming real SS, and asking SS money, take as long as it takes to be sure, could take a couple of hours. Bring some cleaning supplies, floor jack, and a good flashlight.

On the other hand, if the guy's asking 10k, it runs, has presentable paint, and no flintstone floors, give him the money and drive away unless you really really only want a real SS.

Just got back from a quick look over. He forgot his keys at his shop and it was pouring rain outside so I only had 1/2 hr to look it over. We'll get together this weekend and go over it some more. He said the #'s WILL match as he ran them all when he got it back in '80. Here's what I got so far. The VIN is: 124378L319124
The engine assembly stamp (code) is T1128MY and the engine VIN is: 18L319124.
On the cowl tag, the best I can make out on the top line is :12C JZ3S
Middle line: ST 68 12427 LOS 18129 BODY
Bottom line: (looks like) MG 721 G-5 PAINT
Some of the #'s are hard to read and I had to make a guess.
I posted pictures on this boat web site. (You can see what I just sold to buy a camaro "my avitar picture") http://forums.screamandfly.com/forums/showthread.php?t=92678

the boat forum looks pretty cool! Too bad you have to be a member to see posted pics! #'s decoding's not my game, but I'm sure the info will be here shortly. The vin matches are a great start.

T=Tonawanda egine plant
11= assembly month (november)
28=day of month
MY= 68 Camaro 396/325HP, with turbohydramatic.

looks good...nice

I didn't know you had to be registered to look at the pictures in a post on that site.
There are some car buffs on that site that are trying to help. Someone said the hub caps didn't look right.
Since I can't post pictures here, anyone that wants to see this rig can follow the link I provided and log in as me. I have the same name as on here. For the next week you can use ronp for a password. The owner said over 20k but less than 25k. It does need a paint job and some detail to the engine / compartment. It has 55000 miles. There is a guy in town that ownes a body shop that used to restore cars. His work is perfect!! He told the current owner he would love to repaint it and gave a $5000.00 estimate. I want a older Camaro I can enjoy for a few years and not lose when I go to sell. Is this that car???

Hi Ron, I went to your boat site and read the responses. It looks like SMS speaks fluent camaro and gave you some good information. It sounds like the car could be an excellent example of a 68 RS/SS but W/O photos and an idea of the option package it will be difficult to advise a market price. I would like to contact SMS on your site as his Freetown, IN. address is also where I live! He must run the Christian youth camp across the road as it has a sister camp at Spring Lake, MI. Could you pass my email address to him? patjillr@gmail.com

It's been done. Hey, you can log on as me to see the pictures.

There was some discussion on those wheelcovers....I believe that they are the PA2 MAG wheel cover option....My 69 SS/RS had the same ones (I think)...So I don't know why a 68 couldn't have had that same option...


Dan


BTW...Just by the pictures & other info provided...I would pay no more than 22k for it....Just my Opinion

Dan, that would be the max I think I would want to spend on this car. IF I decide to deal on this car, I'd probably work on 20k and change or look elseware.

The green on green ext / int thing just doesn't give me that warm fuzzy feeling.
The current owner had the underside undercoated at a Chevrolet dealership before he brought it up here. For some reason the underside of the hood was undercoated also.

One thing for me to consider if I look at another car,.... The cost to fly down and deliver a camaro to Seattle then barge ($800.00) to my town. Probably an easy $3000 - $4000.

I went to your site and viewed the photos. I see alot of good things about the car but also a few concerns. The paint looks presentable and could be the original paint? In that case buff it out and leave it be. If it has been repainted look for signs of rust repair. The top looks good but the cowl tag appears to show G6 and that would be a white top. It may have been dyed or replaced. The interior is the custom and it has some good options such as tilt, remote mirror, and the full gage package. The kick panels have been cut for aftermarket speakers and are harder to replace than it looks. Be sure to check the headliner for damage. The overall color combination is not as popular as some others...and I'll leave it at that. The engine compartment looks rough, but what is there appears to be original except the brake master. Since the car was built at the LOS plant it is a good chance it had a smog pump that was removed. Exceptions to this are possible depending on the final destination of the car. It is a drum brake car and I dont see a power steering pump ( hows your upper body strength). The underside of the hood looks like it was spray bombed. Overall I would question the mileage given the condition of the engine compartment. The hubcaps are correct as is the stripe on the front and lack of spoiler (too long to explain). You need to check the under side of the car very carefully thats the expensive rust repair area. Ask for any paperwork the owner has POP, invoices etc. as it helps document the car. IMO the price is right but maybe not a huge deal in your favor, it all depends on a closer inspection.

Stripe is correct for that build date.
Bumpers and spoilers are separate, unrelated options.
Wheelcovers are correct and look great!
I agree, if the paint is original, leave it!!!
Top is not original, it used to be white.
Car is gold on gold. As that interior ages, it shows more green. I like the color combo, better than red like everyone else!
Price is good. A solid non-original car can be close to that (though 68's are cheaper than 67/69).

Darn, I see Pat types faster. :)

I'm a little behind you on my posts. If it has been undercoated thats not a plus, and usually means that some damage was becoming apparent and it was an attempt to slow it down. The undercoating will speed the decay from rust. Check for bubbles under the vinyl top at the sail panel location and around the rear window. I agree with you that the transportation costs are a consideration in your area. If it runs well, and you find no significant damage, a little elbow grease will take this car up a couple levels. I think it might be a real good buy. Good luck, and thanks for passing my message along.

Pat

Man you guys are quick!! If you had outboard powered speed boats, screamandfly.com would be your site!! Super bunch of guys that WANT to help the newbie.

White top??Are you sure?? Was the stripe supposed to be white as well??

The owner said the rt rear 1/4 was painted because it was keyed the first week he had it. The rest of the paint appears origional. There are some very slight solvent blisters on the corner of the hood, fender top, and trunk lid. They appeared a few years ago and he thinks something got set on the cover when it was stored in his shop. He's had the car for 25 yrs and said the blisters were not there till a couple years ago.

As far as the undercoat, he said it was put on to protect the underside from our salty roads. The underside of the rockers and fenders have the usual rock nicks bit NO RUST!!

Hopefully we'll be able to put it up on the rack this weekend and I can get some good pictures for you.
Thanks for ALL your help. I truly appreciate it!!

One last thing. The cover on the steering wheel probably means it has cracked with age. It just so happens a restored wheel, ash gold, is here on the classified section. I would suggest you contact the seller as it is expensive and hard to find.