anyone know about how much power this thing will make? or a 1/4 mile est in a stock 69 camaro 373 gear bg 270 pump 355 trw 12.1 pistons pink rods gm steal crank arp rod bolts/head studs moroso windage tray brodix track1 heads 2.08 1.6 valves 221intake runners milled 30 tnousands roller rockers stud girdle victer jr. holly hp4150 750 double pumper crane cams solid 563/581 lift 264/272duration cam. any help? thanks 69ss :beers:

Im going to tell you it will go 11's. My friend had my nova before i did and he had a 350 in it. 10.5:1, erson 312 adv. 268 @.050 .575 lift on a 108 cam, victor jr, Track 1 215cc heads, 1 7/8" headers with a tremec TKO transmission and it went 11.70's @ 119mph i believe. But he allways had trouble at the track, and never got a good run out of it. That MPH had low 11's writen all over it.
If you really have 12:1 comp. And are willing to change your rear gears to somthing along the lines of 4.56 or so, have the right converter and are willing to wind it 7,500+RPM {wich is where you will have to go} it should go low 11's, thats asuming its well tuned, the chassis bites and is well driven. With those gears its not going to work real well though.

Have you already built this engine, or is this just a proposed build up? There are a few things that could definitely be changed if possible. Number one is the rotating assembly. Guaranteed youve got a 7500rpm engine. With that in mind, Id use nothing short of a 4340 H beam rod. Stock rods just dont cut it. It would be a shame to build this engine and then have a rod self destruct and take with it everything in its path. Its just a matter of time for a stock rod at this level.

Also, if you can help it, a better crankshaft would be good as well. An aftermarket 4340 steel lightweight crank. You want as much ligtwheight goodies as you can get for the bottom end if your trying to turn dang near 8000rpm.

And definitely more carb will help.

Be warned, with a setup like that, dont plan on any sort of street driving. Those 3.73's will have to go. Youll need some 4.56's minimum and more like 4.88's with a GOOD race converter that stalls 4500+ rpm. What your looking into building is basically an all out bracket engine. I fully beleive that it can go tens with the right gearing and converter....its just a matter of keeping the motor together. You will need a very good rotating assembly, and a top notch valvetrain for the enigne to live at such serious rpm.

If you havent built it yet, is there any way we could convince you to build a big block? You could build a big block with a fair amount of stock parts that would hold together and run just as fast on pump gas....plus, your current gearing would work and the price of the big block might even be cheaper considering all of the trick stuff you will need to keep the small block able to survive. The price of setting up your car to accept a big block as well as the price to aquire a good core would probably push the pricetag on a big block buildup above the pricetag on a small block, but if you want to drive on the street at all while being just as fast, the big block will pay off a lot in the longrun. Tell us how fast you are wanting to go. Depending on your goals, and whether or not you have built the motor yet, you just might be overshooting the buildup and you might be able to tame it up a lot and still be as fast as what you are hoping for. Let us know.

yes I've already assembled the small block I got it in a trade and the guy told me the rods were some aftermarket brand I cant remember but it was all new I've got a tci 4000 stall w/anti bloon stuff I pan on ditching the 10 bolt373 cause i got a 12 bolt w/posi unit but it has a 308 gear in it. also I already have a standard bore 77/454 that needs a sleeve plus I have 60 over speed pro pistons new rings rod and main bearings a ls6 steal crank roller rockers 600 lift cam electric pump and cast #292 oval port heads also have brand new arp head bolts and main studs for a bbc I just don't have the money to get the block sleeved or bored right now so I went with the small block plus my 69 already has a mild 355 in it right now w/ a comp cams 292/501 cam just figured id run the small block and sell the big block stuff or build it w/ I get income tax check also have a square port team g intake w/ nitrous pluming under it "sneaky looks like vacume lines in the back" but like i said the sbc stuff was there an complete so I built it and the car has small block springs and exaust onit u think the 400 stall will be enough what about a 411 in the 12 bolt I street race and ocasonally go to the track so I like to drive it but its hard to have cake and eat it 2 but I'm trying it any way plus raising 2 kids thanks for the input brw69

I thought you said they were pink rods? Those are nothing more than stock GM rods that have been peened, magnafluxed and I beleive heat treated. In the end, they are just stock rods that would not be worth using in such an application.

As far as that cam goes, it would be way too wicked for any sort of street driving. Youd literally have to just cruise around at 4500rpm during regular driving and thats rough.

Do you already have the cylinder heads? If not, Id look into different aftermarket heads with larger chambers to bring your compression down cause that compression is going to be way too radical for street gas with any kind of a streetable camshaft. Or, change pistons to a rather large dish. If you can even bring the compression down to about 10.5:1 - 11:1 comp, it will be more do able. For a cam, Id use the lunati 401A6 solid. Its got 243/251 duration at .050 with a 110 LSA. Its still a pretty radical camshaft and if you get by with enough vacuum to run power brakes, youd be lucky but I doubt it......however it will be many times more streetable than that crane cam and will work much better with the 4.11 gear/converter combo you have.

If you use other heads, use an AFR 195cc head with a 74cc chamber to knock your compression down(I assume you have dome pistons right now to make 12:1 comp....if not, let me know).

Yeah, its hard to have your cake and eat it too. Especially with a cam thats 264 degrees duration at .050. A cam that big would be well sized for a 496 strip engine that gets driven some times. It will be downright radical and idle like a pro stocker in a 355.

yea i already bolted the heads on but was kinda thinking of swaping the cam I like comp cams stuff always had good luck w/them the pistons are dome but I'm not really sure how much the guy I got the stuff from told me they were 12.1 they have a good dome on them and i know him pretty good so i m sure they are what he said if not close 2 it all of it was new besides the heads i made him take them off his 406 cause i knew where they had been from new and what they have been trough he was trying to trade me some 041# gm heads but what had been done to them is a mystery? I'l proboly put the 468 together if I keep the car I love it but I've got a feddish w/turbo buicks theyre groing on me but i had the 69 for 11years now so it'l probaly stay but I was thinking about comp cams xe294 hydralic but I dont know its all 2gether now was just pondering on power

You absolutly do NOT want a hydraulic cam with that combo. Id stick with the solid flat tappet. If you have everything bolted together and ready to go then just fire it and see how it goes.

sweet

Geez, while we are on this topic, I would be very grateful if someone could give me a ballpark on my setup as far as HP/ET. I have a 468 with forged Speed Pro pistons that according to the engine builder yield 11 to 1 comp. The rods are nothing special, just 7/16 dimple rods (bushed for floating pins)The crank is a regular GM 7115 forging steel GM crank. The whole setup was balanced to the enth degree, and I had to wait forever to get it back, but the builder said it will be worth it. The camshaft is a CompCams solid roller lift is .680/.680 250 dur @ 050 with a 110 degree lobe center, the lifters are the Crower HIPO pressure fed solid rollers. The rocker arms are the CompCams Magnum Stainless 1.7 ratio. The heads are the Bordix Aluminum RaceRite heads with 115cc chambers (square ports) that are port matched from the factory to the FelPro 1211 gaskets. The manifold is a Edelbrock Performer RPM AirGap that had to be hogged out to match the 1211 gaskets. The manifold porting that was done was done professionally, and did require some epoxy because parts of the ports were not thick enough to port out that far. Oh well..The carburetor is a BG Demon 850dp. The trans is a ST-10 with a 2.64 first gear and the rearend gears are the stock GM 4.10's. This is just a cruise around the hood street car, so if the combo doesn't make THAT much HP it's not the end of the world, I just wanted to make it fun. The car has factory p/s p/b and a/c... this should be interesting.. Thanks for all your advise, I love this site :waving: