I have the World aluminum block (which I found out is clearanced already for up to 4" strokes. I'm looking at the Lunati Pro Series engine kit that has a 4" stroke and 6" Pro Billet rods, Lunati flat top pistons, King bearings, and Plasma Moly file fit rings. I have a frined of mine who sold his Chevelle and has decided to go with a Big Block Camaro, he still has a set of AFR 210 heads that he has never installed. I'm going for the Small Block 427 but need a hyd. roller cam yet and suggestions? I'm running a Fuel injection system from Holley its a MPI but I'm going to change it over to the Stealth Ram. I'm going for 100% reliability and able to use pump gas.
Thanks,
Mike

Personally, I would avoid aluminum blocks. They are trick looking and light, but aluminum expands and contracts a lot more with heat than iron. So valve lash will grow more like .012-.014" when warming up instead of the usual .005-.006" with alum heads / iron block. Also, you have to consider main bearing bore growth with aluminum blocks. You wind up with real tight main bearings when the motor is cold to get normal clearances when the motor is hot (you could spin bearings if you horse around with a cold aluminum block). Then you have to go with screw in freeze plugs for the same reason.

Just too much trouble IMO.

Eric,
o what your saying is I should dump the block and buy a World cast iron block? I'm trying to dump weight of the front for a better balance. I'm building the engine for low RPM power but I want it bullit proof. I plan on throwing nitrous maybe in the future so I need it as strong as humanly possible. I also need it to be 100% reliable. But also can take that abuse they get from time to time. How does the rest of it sound? Cam ideas?
Thanks,
Mike

Mike, I'd stay with the proven iron block. I'm sure aluminum can be built, its just not my personal first choice unless front end weight is absolutely critical.

The rest of the combo looks good to me . . . a little overkill but good.

I know its over kill but with the exception of crank kit I have it or I can get it cheap, well not cheap but for less than NIB heads would run. Plus I have always liked Lunati and for once in my life I can afford to do this. I still would like a cam idea from you I want it to be a hyd. roller. What do you think of Jesel shaft rocker arms? He also has a set of those that he never used?
Thanks,
Mike

What's the compression ratio going to be?

You dont need shaft rockers for a 6,000 RPM motor. Just go with a nice set of aluminum or stainless roller rockers and you should be fine. If you want lower RPM and you buddy has the 210 heads cheap by all means id jump on them. Lunati makes good cranks, rods and pistons and ive never heard a bad thing about them so id say go for it. Now remember with all those cubes, picking out a cam isnt like picking one out for a 350. What is radical in a 350 is mild in a decent 427.

Now remember with all those cubes, picking out a cam isnt like picking one out for a 350. What is radical in a 350 is mild in a decent 427.

Exactly, we put a Comp 292H is my buddies 468" motor and it idles like a 280H in a 350 . . .

He told me he would trade the heads for a Strat I have so what they hey? Should I go with larger or smaller ones out of curiosity? I have a grat set of Comp Magnums but I have a old Marshall stck he wants so I told him I'd trade him for the Jesels... LOL Heck he said let him think about which means sure. I need to contact Lunati and find out what the compression ratio is but I think I read it was 10.1. But then I need to find out if that was a 64cc or 76cc head. Like I said earlier I need this car to be pump gas friendly so I need to keep the compression down to at least the 10.1 range? I know I'm missing something else here so feel free to let me know.
Thanks,
Mike

Exactly, we put a Comp 292H is my buddies 468" motor and it idles like a 280H in a 350 . . .

Eric, my friend just fired his Little M 427 small block with 227 M2 track 1's. He had a 312/268/.575/108 Erson grind in his 350 with 215cc track 1's and it sounded awesome. He put it in his 427 to start it and it sounds kind of tame in comparason, a much deeper tone, but much more tame...and thats with a 268@.050 cam.

aluminum blocks are sweet, and about the best way to shave weight off the nose of the car. the aluminum 632 in the race car (all steel 70 nova) made the car scale nearly 50/50, with a slight bias to the back, definately helps in our situation.
but, as eric pointed out they are a different animal. i will say though, don't be afraid of them, just know you need to warm them up before getting crazy, or really even just playing around, and they need to be warm to adjust valves. adjusting cold is hit and miss, they grow and shrink a lot, and they all have thier own charcteristics. we adjust the 632's valves hot, and toyed with finding a cold adjustment, but it was too varying, so we just quit doing it.
so if a slightly tempermental motor (at least slightly imo) is not your bag, and you'd like to get in and go, iron is probably a better choice. but if you dont mind warming up and adjusting valves hot, aluminum is extremely cool, and light.
definately look at cams in the .250 @ .050 range and up, those cubes will swallow a cam quick. (of course this also depends on what your looking for out of it as well)
god luck with it, sounds like a sweet set up :thumbsup:

Mike, if you are going hydraulic roller for the cam I would use about 10.5:1 compression and use a cam that is right about 240*/246* duration @ .050 with a 110* LSA. The AFR 210 heads are perfect for your 427 IMO -- I'd keep them. 240/246 will make about a 2500-6000 power band in the big SBC. If you want a little more 250 @ .050 would bump your power band up to 2800 to 6400-6500 which is OK as long as you use a rev kit.

As a reference point, a 250* roller cam will go to 7,000 RPM in my 388" motor. It idles at about 900 RPM in gear and has only about 8" vacuum

PS. The fuel injection will help with low end a lot -- so if you want the bigger cam and a little extra top end go for it. The FI will make it easier to live with on the street.

I think you will need dished pistons and large chambers to get 10 to 1 with heads in the 74 cc range.
I have dished pistons for my 427 but haven't cc'd anything yet.
I expect to come near 11 to 1 with dished pistons, but will use a long duration roller cam so will have a bit lower dynamic compression. there may be a bit more compression loss from block expansion.

I'm not very worried about having an aluminum block, GM has plenty of aluminum small blocks running on the road. I value lower weight over horsepower for my use.
There are some AFR engine combos on this site. Click the "dyno tests" link at the top of the page, they list two 434 tests, one is a blown engine.