Hello all. I have a 67 camaro that came from the factory with a 327/275hp motor, a powerglide and a 3.55 10 bolt rear (non-posi). The transmission has been pulled and replaced with a TH350. The engine is original, but I am considering the addition of a ZZ383/425hp and I am looking for suggestions on what to do with the rear end. Based on the hp and torque rating on the motor, I am pretty sure the stock rear will detonate if I really get into it on a regular basis.

This car is going to be a weekend cruiser that may see a track once or twice, but it isn't going to be regularly raced so I don't need race equipment - I just want something that I am not going to wear out if I nail the throttle now and then.

Can the stock rear-end be built up enough to take the punishment of a ZZ383? I have read that 10 bolts out of mid 70's novas are stronger, but would they stand up to this engine? I guess I could go with a 12 bolt, but if there is a cheaper way, I would love to hear it...

Thanks,

Greg Hamlin

get a girdle for the rear would help and a cover that has some strength to it.

but there is numerous weak spots on a 10 bolt rear so I suggest going to a bone yard and pick up a good used ford 9 inch rear and spend the money on shortening the rear etc.

For what your looking at doing I think a good posi (eaton) and gear set will be ok for a while. I think anything you build will eventually ware out and break.
Eric68 was running an 8.2" behind his 383 and mid 11's for quite some time before it let go.
I just built my 8.2" with all new parts, except for axel shafts, and its good so far... fingers crossed. It's been down the track about 20 times and has maybe 500-750 hard miles on the street.

With an open rear end and street tires I bet you won't hurt it.

The 8.5 out of a 71-75 nova will direct bolt in (someone will need to confirm those years. Then you can get a posi carrier out of any 70's F-body and you are ready to go. I got mine rebuid kit and all for about $450. The below link is very helpful to locate these rear ends. Well it used to be in my favorites category. Search for nova resource on google. I am sure someone else on the board has it bookmarked.

With an open rear end and street tires I bet you won't hurt it.

That's pretty much the key... horsepower won't hurt it, but traction will!

The 8.5" 10 bolt out of a later model nova or nove clone is the best bet. They bolt in, and are very nearly as strong as a 12 bolt. They're dirt cheap, too. Odds of finding one used with a posi or decent gear ratio are pretty slim tho.

There isn't much sence in putting money into the 8.2 when you can built the Nova 8.5 for less money and have a better rear end. The 8.5 can be upgraded with 30 spline axles, which makes it much better than the other 10 bolt. I have sold several complete 8.5 10 bolt rear ends with new 30 spline Eaton posi, Moser axles and new gears and bearings for under $1400. You can also go the salvage yard way and find used parts to go in it, but you will have to stay with the 28 spline axles.

Thanks everyone. It sounds like a 8.5 is probably the best way to go for me. guess it is time to hit the junkyards!

regards,

Greg

10 bolt 8.5 is a good choice...remember you will need to cut the drive shaft 1" too. NOT a complete direct bolt in but still worth the effort. I do have a 8.2 richmond power trax for the 8.2 for sale in the parts forum . You do not even need to change the gears to get positive traction...just swaps out the spider gears in your existing unit.

I also build differentials here in Ohio. I can build you a 1972 -1975 8.5 nova rear anyway you would like. as far as a complete bolt in including new brakes if you would like. Just email me for a price quote. mitschke454@earthlink.net Jim - J D Race and Restoration, Richfield, Oh 1 330 990 8155

The drive shaft length depends on which yoke is used. The '72 to '74 Nova rear ends used the old style u joint with the external retainers and the later ones used the u joint with the c clips on the inside of the yoke. The early yoke does not require a shorter drive shaft, but the later yoke does. The later yoke also requires an adapter u joint.

Your '67 Camaro will have mono leaf springs. There were a few 8.5 Nova rear ends that were made for the mono leaf, but most were for the multi leaf springs. If you can not find a mono leaf rear end then you may have to swap springs, or use some spacers.

Just as an added note, even if you change to multi-leaf springs, you may need a spacer in the 8.5's perch. I have replacement 5 leafs in my 69, and with the 8.5's anchor plates,and new replacement isolator pads, I had about 5/16 inch of slop. I welded in some steel plate spacers in the top of the perches to take up the slop and then some, and all is well. The X-body that donated the rear had 5-leafs, but maybe the spring pack was thicker? I called around for Camaro leafs, and even the "correct" Eatons weren't any thicker than what I had. That's when I went the spacer route.

I will be curious to see how my yoke works out. I am running a TKO, so I was planning to have a driveshaft made from the jump. The driveshaft joints will be 1330s, and the rear yoke is a 3R so that joint will be a hybrid. The 3R yoke I have doesn't seem to have provisions on the yoke or straps to hold the caps on the U-joint, nor grooves for clips, so I am really curious to see how the caps are retained. Any input on that Freddie?

The inside surface of the yoke is machined flat. The c clips fit into grooves in the caps and seat against the flat surfaces inside the yoke.