Ok guys, I'm sure most of you will find this funny, but I am very much a novice when it comes to mechanics.

Anyway, I want to learn the proper way of adjusting/setting the timing on my car. I've been told that since my car is modified that I would need the specs on my Cam etc.. to properly time the car. I'm going to try & locate that info, but if you guys cam provide me with any info on how to do this, I'd really appreciate it. I have a timing gun, but I've never used it before & don't even know where to start.

Here is some basic info on my engine..

SBC 350 4bolt main
Cast heads (I think the compression is 10:1)
Aluminum edelbrock manifold
Holly 750 double pumper carb
Pete Jackson timing gears
crane cam 480 lift I believe

any other info needed?

Thanks in advance,
Nick

it pretty much a matter of finding what the engine wants, but there are some guidelines.

Initial timing = static timing before any advance. Modified engines may like anywhere from 12 to 20 degrees.
Mechanical advance = timing advance triggered by rpm. There are weights and springs under the rotor that cause the point cam or trigger cam to rotate as the weights spring out.
Total timing = initial plus mechanical advance. Small block chevy's typically likje somewhere between 32 and 38 degrees. Too much is very bad because the motor will ping under high load/;high rpm's and you probably won't hear it!
Vacaum advance = That's the round thing with the hose on it. It adds advance when the intake manifold vacaum is high, that is when the engine is under little load. At full throttle, vac is low, so it is not a factor and is not included in total timing.

Stock, there is a single line on the harmonic balancer on the front of the crank, and a timing tab on the front cover with a mark at top dead center, and various graduation lines. These typically only go to 12 degrees or so, and it's hard or impossible to use them to dail in the advance on a modified motor like this. they can be useful for setting initial timing, even if you have to guess when the mark goes past the tab.
A better setup is a fully degreed balancer, or balancer cover, with a single tdc pointer attached top the timing cover. This way you can actually read the total advance.
The timing light needs 12 volts, ground and a connection to the #1 plug wire. When you pull the trigger it will flash, and "freeze" the balancer at the point that #1 fires. Some timing lights have a set back dail to help show advance, but mine does not.
When you set initial timing, pull the hose off the vac can, and plug the hose with a screw.
use the search button to find lots more. The info I gave should give you a basic understanding of how it works, but there is lots more here. This is a very popular topic.

Just fyi... my 327 (Dart iron eagle heads, 9.7:1 comp, comp 270H cam, 1.6 rocker, perf rpm & edelbrock 1406) is very happy with 18 degrees initial, 18 vac on full, and 38 total, all in at 3500. but that's mine and yours might want something a lil different.

Jim,

I greatly appreciate your detailed reply. I'm still just a bit confused.
First, how do I know which is the number 1 cylindar?

Also, I'm sure I should have given you this info first, but I have an MSD box , a mallory coil & a mallory unilite distributor. (I don't think there is a vacuum thingy on it)

Sorry for leaving this out...

Cylinder location...

Passenger side front to back: 2 4 6 8



Driver Side front to back : 1 3 5 7


For educational purposes,
One consideration is to see if there are any tech schools in your area that have auto curriculums. Usually, you do not have to be a full time student to take classes. And, realize that classes are, to a degree, progressive. So, you will start with basics and then go to more complicated subjects.

Also, there are books ( Haynes and Chilton for example ) that will cover basic auto care and maintenance. When new to working on cars, understand how to establish baselines or starting points so that , if you make a change, you can (1) Get back to that starting point if necessary and (2) Assess wheher or not the change was a plus, a negative, or, insignificant. Do not make make several changes at the same time until you learn to distinguish what does what.

Always think safety. For example, do not lean over a running engine wearing a neck-tie. Wear safety goggles when appropriate, such as climbing under car... Do not crawl under car solely supported by a jack ... Even be careful of belt-buckles because they can scratch your car ...

From your specs, your car should be decently stout ... Don't overlook that it is equally important to handle well and stop well. Pay attention to condition of suspension and effectiveness of brakes also .

Right, as sdtsdt said, #1 is the front plug on the driver's side.

If there's no vac can on the distributor, forget about it for now.

You might start by just hooking up your timing light and "seeing what it shows you."
Best place to get 12 volts is one of the screw terminals on the horn relay, which is on the back side of the rad support, drivers side, below the voltage regulator. or just clip the black and red leads on the battery. Be very careful to keep the cables clear of the fan, belts, and pulleys.
You may need to clean the timing tab and the mark on the balancer.
If your timing light has a dailback dail, put it to ZERO.
Start the engine, point the light at the timing tab and pull the trigger. You should see the balancer mark frozen somewhere near the timing tab.
AGAIN, be extremely careful the the timing light wires are no where near the engines rotating fan, belts, or pulleys!
If you rev the engine, you should see the mark move in relation to the timing tab.

to make it easy onyou.Make sure you have all the wires in the right place,loosen your dist enough to move it around.mark your dist, under the #1 cylinder wire is,take off your cap and move the dist. untill the rotor(the arrow looking thing) is lined with that mark on your dist. put your cap back on leave your dist. a little loose so you can move it, this will give you a good starting point, then as its running you can carefully twist the dist. to time it correctly.(no lag as you accelerate). this will get you close if not dead on. thanks kenny