Hi guys. Its been awhile for me, but here I am again needing some help. My hideaways are giving me fits. Heres whats going on. When I turn the headlights on, only one opens and shuts. The drivers side works like a champ. Now, Ive replaced the passangerside motor, all 3 relays by the washer bottle, and the limit switch on the headlight assembly. The motor does work, but whats happens is when the motor shuts the hide away and it trips the limit switch, it wont open with out a little nudge. When the hideaway comes off the head light limit switch, it continues to open till hitting the radiator limit switch. Then when I turn them off, it wont close till I nudge it off the radiator limit switch. Any thoughts? Im at my wits end. Ive burnt out a motor earlier because of what I thought was a bad limit switch on the headlight assembly..(I dont think the motor shut off when it hit it)...and I really dont want to repaet that expensive mistake.
Thanks,
James

If one side is working its usually a problem with the the limit switches or incorrect wiring at that door. Did they suddenly stop working correctly, or did this problem occur after installing new components. I would first check the limit switches, here is the correct wiring for the limit switch terminals:

All limit switch ground terminals must FACE DOWN.

Limit switch located on driver's side of the radiator support:
Plug with single purple wire attaches to the top terminal of the switch.
Plug with two blue wires attaches to bottom terminal of the switch.

Limit switch located on driver's side headlight capsule:
Plug with single white wire attaches to the top terminal of the switch.
Plug with two brown wires attaches to bottom terminal of the switch.

Limit switch located on the passenger's side of the radiator support:
Plug with single bright green wire attaches to the top terminal of the switch.
Plug with single blue wire attaches to bottom terminal of the switch.

Limit switch located on passenger's side headlight capsule:
Plug with single green wire attaches to the top terminal of the switch.
Plug with single brown wires attaches to bottom terminal of the switch.

if the motor is new, and it works with help, I'd check the mechanical part of the assembly first. Sounds like something is binding up.

Nope Nope Nope...With all due respect, having owned three 67' RS models with the wonderful electric system, and skinning at least 6 of my eight bleeding knuckles repairing them, the problem is in your "clutch pack". By that I mean the nylon washers and steels that install between the headlight arm and the motor. Your "clutch" is slipping, which will allow the arm to move and trip the switch,but just barely. When you try to get it moving again, it is not making enough positive contact with the switch, because in closing, it has actually "bounced" slightly off of the limit switch. Thats why when you give it a nudge, it goes. Here's the fix: Go to Home Depot, and buy two fender washers. You may need to drill out the centers to fit over the shaft of the motors. Remove the headlight capsule and install a washer under the headlight arm. This will take up the slack that exists,allow positive tripping of the limit switches, fix your headlights, and in the end make you a pretty happy guy... Try it..it works... :):):)

James indicates that the door depresses the limit switch at the end of the travel and shuts down the motor as it’s supposed to. A correctly wired RS system (with the ignition on) will always run the motors until the limit switch is depressed, if the switch isn’t depressed the motor just keeps going, which is why a loose clutch will cause the motor to endlessly attempt to depress the limit switch, resulting in the dreaded bounce. However, James does not seem to have the bounce problem. I still think the problem lies in a reverse wired (or grounded out) limit switch that prevents the motor from starting until a helping hand moves the door of the depressed switch.

Mark,

I hear what you are saying, but I think that if the limit switches were mis-wired,it would have always been that way, and would not have occured all of the sudden. I suppose it could have grounded out but..... This problem sounds like it only occurs on one side, but in both directions. Both switches would need to be mis-wired or grounded out...unlikely IMO.

I know this sounds a bit odd, but the switch itself has a certain degree of travel. Yes, it would run forever with the key on unless the switch were tripped, but unless those switches are fully depressed, you will need to nudge them to get them going. I did this drill with my 3 RS models, and even though the switch will cut off, if the clutches are loose, it will travel out just enough so that it will not close without an assist. This is because there is an almost imperceivable bounce that moves it out some since the limit switch features a spring loaded button, but its not enough to break the circuit. The problem is that the relays will not send the "close" signal to the motors unless the switch is all the way down. This is why when a slight nudge is applied, the motor fires up and attempts to close or open. Again, the fact that it happens while opening and closing tells me that it'd just be very unusual for both of the limit switches' grounds and wiring to fail simultaneously. Just my nickel, but I HATE troubleshooting electrical problems! I'd try tightening the clutches, as this worked for me to solve the same problem that is being described on 2 of 3 of my RS cars. The cost is about half an hour and 50 cents in washers. A way to test this theory is to get some self stick foam window insulation. Cut off a thick piece (1/2 inch or so), and attach it to the back portion of the headlight door that contacts the limit switch. This will effectively limit the travel on the door, and also press harder on the limit switch. This should help the door to close on its own, then eventually the minor slippage will occur again, but it will help you troubleshoot the problem until you can tighten the clutches as described. Hope this helps. Let us know how it works out.

Thanks guys. Ill try replacing the clutches first. THis problem existed with the car when I bought it. Ill advise on how it turns out. Wish me luck, and thanks agian for the advise.
James

I had this exact same problem a few months ago. Long story short: In the end it turned out to be the little bolt at the bottom of the "clutch pack" was just a little too loose. When I tighted itup , problem was solved. It only took forever to finally figure it out.

Yep, could be that as well. But you're right, its in the "clutch" assembly as described. Hope James lets us know how he makes out.

How about it james 7773. It's been nearly six months!!! How did the problem get fixed?