View Full Version : New clutch+mismached parts = problem?


HLSASS
Oct 16th, 05, 02:58 PM
I am about to install a new clutch into a 67 camaro coupe. I have a LUK dual friction clutch, Mcleod SFI bellhousing, original flywheel (turned), lakewook fork, hayes throwout bearing and mcleod adjustable ball stud. When I installed the first time, the fork was so tight, it would not move at all and I had a hard time getting the transmission in. By the way, have a roller type pilot bearing and a TKO600. I took it back off and double checked the alignment of the clutch and I'm about to put it back on.
Before I do this, I am wondering that with this mishmash of parts, am I looking for trouble? The engine is a stroker that pulls 500HP at the flywheel.

1. Should I get a new flywheel? The original seems ok, it was turned the machine shop said it looked good for one more clutch. It is a 153 tooth.

2. I am concerned the LUK clutch and pressure plate may not stand up to the HP of the engine. This will be a street/strip car. I have a 150HP shot of nitrous on it as well.

3. Is there a good video or pics that show correct fork/throwout bearing alignment. I did check and make sure the bearing was installed correctly as listed on other posts. It is one thing to read a post but a pic is worth a thousand words.

4. Lastly, the bellhousing is the iridite color, can this be powdercoated black? Is it ok to powdercoat the inside and the block plate or is there a chance it could flake off and contaminate the clutch.

Sorry for so many questions! Thanks!

JodysTransmissions
Oct 16th, 05, 05:23 PM
I am about to install a new clutch into a 67 camaro coupe. I have a LUK dual friction clutch, Mcleod SFI bellhousing, original flywheel (turned), lakewook fork, hayes throwout bearing and mcleod adjustable ball stud. When I installed the first time, the fork was so tight, it would not move at all and I had a hard time getting the transmission in. By the way, have a roller type pilot bearing and a TKO600. I took it back off and double checked the alignment of the clutch and I'm about to put it back on.
Before I do this, I am wondering that with this mishmash of parts, am I looking for trouble? The engine is a stroker that pulls 500HP at the flywheel.

1. Should I get a new flywheel? The original seems ok, it was turned the machine shop said it looked good for one more clutch. It is a 153 tooth.

2. I am concerned the LUK clutch and pressure plate may not stand up to the HP of the engine. This will be a street/strip car. I have a 150HP shot of nitrous on it as well.

3. Is there a good video or pics that show correct fork/throwout bearing alignment. I did check and make sure the bearing was installed correctly as listed on other posts. It is one thing to read a post but a pic is worth a thousand words.

4. Lastly, the bellhousing is the iridite color, can this be powdercoated black? Is it ok to powdercoat the inside and the block plate or is there a chance it could flake off and contaminate the clutch.

Sorry for so many questions! Thanks!

I would recommend you get your existing "mis-matched" parts working properly before you powdercoat anything.

Regards, Jody

zdld17
Oct 16th, 05, 06:51 PM
Tape off center hole of Lakewood before any coating , the tko is tight enuff in that area without adding any coating.. I would check the depth of the adjustable clutch fork piviot ball and follow instructions in setting the fork to properly move the bearing. I had to adjust to a depth of 4 3/4" from ball stud face to flat surface of block.
Someone on this site was talking about the issue of tight fitting from bearing retainer into bellhousing ,, just recently. Might do a search of this... unless that person wants to chime in.