I recently purchased a couple of the battery cable clips that mount to the subframe and the cross member. Simple question - how the heck do you mount these things? I don't see an easy way to access the other side of the frame they mount to if they're supposed to be held on with a small nut and bolt arrangement. Are they just riveted on? My 67 originally came with a six-banger in it, so it never had these types of clips installed by the factory.

- - MR

mark slide down to the bottom of this page and there are links to related threads that explain what some have done. This new feature came with our new software change over recently. Its neat, saves you have to use the 'search' sometimes. Pretty sure the guys have good detail on the procedure in the threads down here. :)

try this thread.

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61086

Yeah! That's what I'm talking about!! I'm usually pretty good at searching the archives before posting a question that's been asked and answered before. Guess I didn't use the right keywords in my search criteria. Thanks a million to those who pointed me to the right thread. If nothing else, it's nice to see I'm not alone in my confusion.

- - Mark

i couldn't find it with a search either. i had to look at my previous posts.

if you do use the 2 nail method, you'll really have to twist them hard. i bent a couple of nails before i finally got it to sit tight on the frame and not spin.

have fun.

I mounted mine and it was quite easily done with some very basic tools.
The first thing I had to do though, was remove the plastic coating on these clips with a Stanley knife. The installation method I used unfortunately pulled at the plastic (a rotational force) and caused it to permanently ripple. I tried to avoid this with washers but was far easier to just remove the coating and spray with some satin black epoxy paint instead. (VHT Roll Bar)

Anyway, what I used was a long #6 or #8 screw (NOT self tapping but with 2" or so thread length) with a bevelled head, 2 suitable washers, a small 1/4" drive socket and a nut. (You may require 2 screws and nuts for each clip. use the largest diameter thread that will fit through the clips.)

I first ground down the screw's bevelled head on a bench grinder until it's outside diameter was the same inside diameter as the mounting holes. You need a very tight fit. I also used the wire wheel to remove any burs I may have created so the screw's head will act as a smooth mandrel and deform the clip's mount easier.

Placing the screw through the clip from the backside, I then placed a washer, the socket, the other washer and threaded on the nut until snug. (The socket doesn't do anything except acts as a spacer, so the nut is not within the clip.)

Place the clip and screw assembly into the hole and grip the extending thread with some pliers or preferrably a pair of Vise Grips. Then tighten the nut while pushing the clip (which is spring loaded) against the frame.

Stop periodically and check your progress and carefull not to over tighten.

Once the clip is in place, remove the nut, washers and socket and remove the screw from the behind. A very light tap should release it.

Note that the front-most crossmember has a plate behind the hole which may make it difficult to remove the screw after it drops out. Mine fell through the lower gap -no problem, but I expected a struggle to remove it.

The clips fit really well and are tight on the frame as I had hoped they would be. :beers:

http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/72/assembly0524rn.jpg

Thanks to all for the responses. Wish my frame looked as clean as blackoutsteve's!!! Maybe some day. I'm not quite ready for the total tear-down, bead blast on the rotisserie yet, but I look forward to the day.

- - Mark

Clean?? Just look at all that dust!
:)

I just got done trying Blackoutsteve's mounting method. The first one I did was the clip on the forward cross member. That one went on like a dream - nice and tight and I didn't have to remove the rubber coating. The second one (on the face of the other cross member) was not as cooperative. The rubber coating on that one shredded as I was putting it on and the fit isn't quite as tight. Tight enough, however. A 2" long # 8 screw with a turned down head as Steve described probably would have done a better job. I used a 1-1/2 long # 6 flat head screw - it was the longest #6 the local hardware store had. It was really a tad too short to get a grip on the end of the screw while tightening the nut. As a result the brass sleeve potion of the rivet didn't crush evenly which is why it is a wee bit loose.

I'm hoping to put the motor back in this coming weekend and I really wanted to get these mounted first (for obvious reasons.) Thanks for all the suggestions.

I just got done trying Blackoutsteve's mounting method. The first one I did was the clip on the forward cross member. That one went on like a dream - nice and tight and I didn't have to remove the rubber coating. The second one (on the face of the other cross member) was not as cooperative. The rubber coating on that one shredded as I was putting it on and the fit isn't quite as tight. Tight enough, however. A 2" long # 8 screw with a turned down head as Steve described probably would have done a better job. I used a 1-1/2 long # 6 flat head screw - it was the longest #6 the local hardware store had. It was really a tad too short to get a grip on the end of the screw while tightening the nut. As a result the brass sleeve potion of the rivet didn't crush evenly which is why it is a wee bit loose.

I'm hoping to put the motor back in this coming weekend and I really wanted to get these mounted first (for obvious reasons.) Thanks for all the suggestions.

You're lucky the main cross member clip was the one that didn't work too well because you can at least get to the other side of it if you wish to use a larger screw and try again.. Perhaps one with a larger chamfered head, as you can insert it from the rear..
Anyway, I'm glad you had some success with my suggestion. :beers: