: Subframe Connectors....
mbmmca Oct 26th, 05, 07:06 AM I was reading posts (very old) regarding this subject wanted some current info.. I will be taking this project on in the spring (michigan weather) and truthfully, not looking forward to it.
I haven't purchased any yet and am leaning toward the bolt on with tac welding for extra strength...Any thoughts? Best ones to go with?
djunod Oct 26th, 05, 07:10 AM I bought the DSE weld on connectors, but now have changed my mind... I am going to use bolt on connectors... my reasoning is that someday me or somebody else may want to either rebuild the subframe completely or change to a full chassis, and I don't want to have to deal with removing the welded subframe connector.
mbmmca Oct 26th, 05, 07:44 AM Thanks! I was looking at your pics of the 68. Gorgeous car! The teal is also the color I am considering for my 67. What is the purpose of sealing the car? I've never heard of that being done...
djunod Oct 26th, 05, 08:04 AM Teal is the old color... now it is black :) Sealing was the term the body guy called it... I would call it primer.
HwyStarJoe Oct 26th, 05, 09:29 AM I bought the DSE weld on connectors, but now have changed my mind... I am going to use bolt on connectors... my reasoning is that someday me or somebody else may want to either rebuild the subframe completely or change to a full chassis, and I don't want to have to deal with removing the welded subframe connector.
I 100% agree. Everything else under the car is able to be unbolted.... so should the frame connectors. In reality they just extend the subframe rails back to the torque boxes, and maybe welded to them or the front spring eye brackets, so you can still remove the leaf springs and rear end.
It's even more difficult if the connectors are cut through the floors and welded to/through the body..... you're stuck with a premanent frame.
I realize that after a resto, the car should be 100% clean with new floors, etc. but 30 years from now what do you do? ;)
dragon0123 Oct 26th, 05, 09:42 AM Bolt on will do the trick for you anyway.. unless you plan on spending a considerable time at the strip, just bolt them in.
mbmmca Oct 26th, 05, 10:45 AM Thanks for the help....in case you haven't figured it out yet, a female is doing this restoration, (with some assistance from hubby...) so please keep the suggestions coming...they are greatly appreciated!
clwilcox33 Oct 26th, 05, 02:04 PM MaryBeth, you know the hubby is going to want one of his own when yours is done.....
Unless he already has one :)
mbmmca Oct 26th, 05, 02:49 PM Actually, he does have one. His is a 55 Chevy Nomad, and is in much better shape than mine....his is drivable... :clonk:
69ProTouring Oct 26th, 05, 05:19 PM Some of the replies here are misleading. The subframe can be unbolted from the DSE SFC's:
http://www.lateral-g.net/members/hodson/67rs-6.jpg
67rsssvert Oct 27th, 05, 07:24 AM Depends on what you're 'going for'. I went with the DSE weld-ons because I'd seen so many of the bolts-ons that hung down below the car and, IMO, distracted from the exterior view of the car. To see the DSE SFCs, you gotta look for them. On the other hand, they did require cutting/welding in the rear floor area. But, like I said, I was less concerned about that.
DenRS Oct 27th, 05, 06:15 PM I have the comp engineering bolt in subframe connectors with the hotchkis suspension all around and mine don't hang low. I will say that it is a pain to line up the bolts with the SF connector, the spring perches, and those little nut clips.
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