jacket
Nov 1st, 05, 07:07 PM
I have the Autometer gage pod with the fuel gage. My original fuel gage is still functional and connected. Th Autometer gage reads from empty to 150% of full and the original gage reads normal. Could I have the wrong Autometer gage or is there a way to calibrate so that it uses no more than the full range of the gage?
Johnny K
Nov 1st, 05, 07:55 PM
Whats the number on the guage?
Is it a 5714?
I just replaced my existing 5714 with a new one . . .
The old one was reading way past the F . . almost pegged
Suggestion:
Remove the stock gauge
Hook the autometer gauge up with alligator clips
GND to ground
I to 12V power
S to the tan signal wire from the sender unit in the tank
Unhook the tan signal wire
Take the clip hooked to the S terminal and touch it to the GND terminal
If the gauge goes to E its OK if not the gauge is bad
This gauge is a 0 -90 ohms unit for GM cars
0 ohms (or to ground) equals empty
90 ohms equals full
These gauges are senstive to any power surge
I had my external voltage regulator go bag and I think my gauge saw 18V
Let me know how you make out
Good luck
John
jacket
Nov 1st, 05, 08:40 PM
It may be that both gages are ok and the sender is putting out more than 90 ohms. I'll check that with a meter. The sender is not in the tank and both gages go to E when sender is zeroed so I think it is 0 ohms the top end may be greater than 90 ohms.
Johnny K
Nov 1st, 05, 08:47 PM
Is it the original sender unit?
They should all be 0-90ohms
Let me know what you learn . . it may help me out as well
I am still having some issues with my sender
When the tank is near empty I am only reading 1/2 Full on my gauge
I need to check the ground on the sender unit arm
Thanks
John
jacket
Nov 6th, 05, 03:42 PM
I tested both of the sending units. The old one was 0 with no change when moving the arm. The new goes from 0 to 90 ohms. I disconnected the old fuel gage and the autometer now works fine.