need help putting stock wiring together with the aftermarket stuff
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/318000-318999/318157_58_full.jpg

http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/318000-318999/318157_59_full.jpg

sorry but what exactly do you need help with?
i dont know where to begin to try and help?
what are you installing?

read the MSD instructions!

i did it on my 2nd gen years ago and it had instructions for installation of MSD with mallory distributor.

Sorry

What colored stock & after wires go to the + on the coil

What colored stock & after wires go to the - on the coil

Because I get no Spark I test every thing on my el camino and it works there thank you

Need help no spark



on the starter the yellow go's on the R or the S terminal or the middle?



does any of the stock wiring stay with the aftermarket upgrade I need help putting the colors together



I real suck at this my wiring guy is on vacation (in jail )

MSD site has the instructions on its site

yes they do but there very general that why Iam here for camaro info

the yellow wire goes to the r for run on the starter

why dont you tell us what color wires you have and where you have to connect them

i tried to read the wiring diagram and i cannot read any of the words

I will get better pic's and info. The main problem is that the car came with no engine harness or engine that I can trace back too. Starting from scratch

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What I can't figure out is what those two round deals are in the middle with ring terminal connectors listed by it. I guess theyare just a fancy splice of some sort. I can tell you that setup is for a breaker point ignition. The white wire is connected to the points so that when the points open, it triggers the ignition module. It can also be connected for a magnetic pickup style ignition, but you'll need the other schematic from the instructions. Seems like the magentic pickup wires are purple and green.

Notice the note at the upper right of your MSD schematic that says "Refer to MSD instructions regarding remaining power connections"? I suspect you've got a ground and a hot all the time connection there. The ignition feed apparently must have a ballast resistor. Be sure you don't have a resistance wire (not sure about 2nd gens). If so, eliminate the ballast resistor and just use the wire.

The Yellow wire, on a stock breaker point system, feeds a full 12v to the coil during cranking. The start solenoid provides the crank-only 12v feed. Doesn't look like you'll be using it, unless the other directions say to. I'd get hot all the time from the horn relay, and reuse your ignition power wire which I think is pink/blk, but I can hardly read the schematic. You should be able to figure it out based on what you have there. Glad to see you refering to a schematic - step one, done.

Resistance wire I think thats it what the hell is resistance wire lol sorry and where does it go and what gauge

Time to take the information you have and stick yer head under the hood. I can tell you what resistance is. Think of it as a restriction in a garden hose. I tiny restriction gives high resistance, a big restriction gives low resistance. In this example, water pressure is similar to voltage (small restriction = high resistance = high pressure drop = low flow). Current is similar to the flow of water (or electrons).

Now back to the subject at hand. The ballast resistor and resistor wire serve the same purpose. The restrict or resist the flow of current through the coil. In the process they get hot as they dissipate the excess power in the circuit to heat. That means less heat in the coil and less arching wear on the breaker points. The resistor wire is exactly like a ballast resistor except that the resistance is distributed along the length of the wire (4 feet or so) instead of in a big ceramic chunk.

In short, use one or the other - not both. Whether you have a resistor wire or not - I'll leave up to someone who is familiar with your exact situation. Until then, you can try and figure it out. The resistance wire often has a stripe. The wire will be a bit stiffer than regular copper. The insulation may be a bit more weathered due to the heat. And the fool proof test is to take a resistance measurement between it and a battery source using a digital volt meter (battery ground disconnected, key on). I believe you see something like 2 to 4 ohms of resistance if it is in fact a resistance wire. Regular copper wires will be 1 ohm or less.

Whew!