srober76
Nov 17th, 05, 01:06 PM
Hey all, My blower for my heat went out and from what I have searched it sounds a bit more complicated than ones that I have replaced underneath the glove box in later model cars. By no means am I good with cars so I was wondering if there was any camaro manuals out there that you recommend with good illustrations and instructions :D . Its a 68 camaro with AC that doest work either.
Thanks,
Vintage 68
Nov 17th, 05, 02:09 PM
Really not that hard to replace the Blower Motor on most of them - just takes some time...
* remove the lower passenger side fender bolt - put the shims in a bag and tape to fender
* remove the heater hose clamp from the inner fender to free-up the hoses so you can lower the inner fender
* loosen the rocker panel molding so you can pull it out away from the fender - do not bend it! - remove enough clips/bolts to allow it to pull out of the way, or just remove the whole thing
* if your car has wheel house mouldings, remove the right front
* remove the lower three (3) bolts that fasten the Inner Fender
* remove the upper bolt that fastens the Inner Fender to the Fender
Now you can pull out and down on the Inner Fender enough to wedge a block of wood in there to hold it away from the fender and body allowing access to the Blower Motor for your hands
Remove the electrical connection, remove the screws/bolts that hold it in and remove the blower
(Reverse the above to install new blower and reassemble)
You will probably have to swap the 'squirel-cage' from the old blower to the new one - I also apply a bead of rope sealer to the flange before reinstalling.
Usually takes me @1 hr to do this - with air tools... ;)
John
srober76
Nov 19th, 05, 03:19 PM
Ok I have a quick question....I removed what I thought was correct :P that sounds scary dont it? Will I have to remove the hood too? I thought I removed the necessary bolts but the top part of the fendor is tight. The part that the hood is attached to is still the out fendor?
Why I should get a book..... I have no business taking this car apart heh. On another bad note I noticed a drip comming from under my car, gas comming from where the fuel line comes out of the fuelpump :/
400bird
Nov 20th, 05, 02:50 AM
i think he was saying to remove the inner fender, not the fender itself
but if you want to take the fender off
yes the hood needs to come off
there is one more bolt in the top of door jam that is kind of hard to see
open the door and look into the the jam area from the outside
he may have mentioned that one but i didnt read that one
clwilcox33
Nov 20th, 05, 08:09 AM
Only fender bolt needing to be removed is the lower fender bolt. The rest of the unbolting is in an effort to get the "inner" fender pulled out far enough to get access to the blower motor.
srober76
Nov 20th, 05, 01:43 PM
Grrr, the squirrel cage was the problem. This appears to be a very hard item to find. Any links would be helpfull. I only found one site with them and it was out of stock. None of the local autoparts store has one. I hate going to junk yards.....
clwilcox33
Nov 20th, 05, 06:16 PM
Post in the Wanted forum classified section of this site. I'm sure there's someone out there with an extra.
srober76
Nov 21st, 05, 07:02 AM
I wonder how long JB weld would hold. The center piece of the squirrel cage spins freely now. Why would they make that two pieces anyways :/
clwilcox33
Nov 21st, 05, 07:56 AM
Can you get a picture posted for where it's broken?
Vintage 68
Nov 21st, 05, 10:27 AM
I wonder how long JB weld would hold. :/
srober(?);
Sorry - I was off on a two day blitz of the Laundry Room project for the 'misses' and went to The Big Game (GO BEARS!) so I didn't get any time in the forums over the weekend. The washer and dryer are moved, built two new cabinets and installed a new $tainless sink, replumbed and rewired everything and installed new drywall - I can relax now and check the forums as she paints... :thumbsup:
The squirel cage can be repaired - as long as the repair doesn't throw it out-of-balance...
If just the base is broken loose, a small bead of epoxy (insert your favorite brand here - such as "J-B Weld") to rebond the pieces will normally work quite well. Be sure to get the two pieces lined up very well, if it is off even a little it will vibrate badly and make lots of noise and probably break again very quickly. If it didn't break, it will certainly take the motor bearings out pretty fast.
The cage was the same from 1967 to @77 - so they souldn't be that hard to find. The motors were different depending on options.
If you haven't tried a wrecking yard, I would start there - I think the last one I got came out of an early 70's PU w/air and was a perfect match. Think I paid @$5.oo for it...
Also try "Ground Up"'s link at top of page - I would bet they have them :thumbsup:
Oh - and Chris (clwilcox) is correct - you only need to remove the lower fender bolt and the rear-most inner fender bolts to pull the bottom of the fender and inner fender out enough to get your hand in there - but, you probably fiqured that out by now... :o
Not much room to work - but, it can be done...
Hope some of this helped;
John
srober76
Nov 24th, 05, 12:08 AM
The previous owner had a hole cut in the fender. I didnt relize that untill I got my head under there.