View Full Version : Mini Tubs in a 67 - which rim size?
bgw67 Nov 23rd, 05, 05:06 PM I just finished installing DSE mini tubs and am looking at rims. I previously ran a Weld 8" rim with 5.5" of backspacing and a 9" slick, but I want to run more with the tubs. I'd love to run a 10.5 or 11.5 slick and a 10" rim, but can't find one that will work with a stock width 12 bolt. I was not planning on buying new axles.
Has anyone found a larger than 8" rim/tire combo that will work under a mini tubbed 67 without narrowing the rear?
camaroman7d Nov 23rd, 05, 06:03 PM You will need to do a little measuring, but if your 8" rim with 5.5" back spacing worked, a 10" rim with 7.5" back spacing would work as well. This is your only option with you do not want to narrow the rear end. You will have to get all your width on the back side of the rim. The 10" with 7.5" backspacing was an example that would work. The best thing to do is measure to see how much room you have. You may have to order the rims to fit your needs.
Guido67SS Nov 25th, 05, 07:25 PM Post picks of the mini tub! How did it turn out? Did you put a cage in the car too? Inquiring minds want to know! How fast do you want to go? Is this a street car only or a street car that see's the track once in a while?
Guido
Musclerodz Nov 25th, 05, 10:02 PM Camaroman is right. Whatever width you add, you will also need to add in backspacing. 1" wider, 1" more BS, etc. I would measure for correct backspacing before going out to ordering though.
Mike
Lonnie67 Nov 30th, 05, 06:51 AM Weld wheels 15 X 10 w/6.5" or 7.5" BS should both work depending on the look you want. Draglite, Rodlite, Prostar maybe others
bgw- You mind sharing your engine and car specs?
bgw67 Nov 30th, 05, 02:30 PM I don't see backspacing greater than 6.5" for 15x10's in the catalogs. I'll call weld and see if they make 'em, as the extra inch is crucial. I am thinking I may just have to narrow the rear end.
Lonnie - no problem.
Chassis: 67 Coupe, glass front end, weight 2950 with me in it, 10 pt cage tied to subframe connectors, full interior, 12 bolt with 4.11, full spool, strange axles, c clip eliminators, 28x9 MT slicks.
Engine: 421 ci NA SBC (1/8" stroked 400 bored 030 over), 230 cc Dart Pro 1, Hoilley 950 HP, Super Victor, Full roller .660/.630 small base circle cam, shaft rockers, 1 3/4 headers, no mufflers at the track, alum/steel balancer, full scraper oil pan
Trans: TH 400 full manual reverse (with brake but never used except to show off a big wheel stand), Neal Chance custom convertor (flashes to 4300 or so on foot brake and is my secret weapon)
The car is nearly bulletproof, I am so happy with the performance and consistency. Several things I have learned:
- make solid plan of where you want to be
- stick to the plan, save your money and buy good parts, it pays off big time in the long run
This motor made 612 hp on the dyno in '01 and is still running as fast at the first passes then. The only maint I do is check lash every once in a while, and change oil and plugs. I have not even removed the dist since my dymo pulls. It is easy and a blast to drive.
Lonnie67 Nov 30th, 05, 06:16 PM Thanks.
Summit lists 7.5" BS for 10" Draglite and Prostars in stock. Judging by my 15X8.5 4.75 BS with a L60 tire, same size as a 28X10 slick, the 6.5" BS should work for you. Unless your car sits real low. But they do have 7.5 according to Summit.
bgw67 Dec 1st, 05, 07:36 AM Lonnie, thanks!! I was only looking at Jeg's and they did not have them. You just saved me some cash!!
BadLatitude Dec 1st, 05, 08:19 AM have you moved your springs inboard yet? when i had my 68rs i used Competition Engineerings kit with a 15x12 centerline auto drag and 28x10.5 egoodyear eagles i think they were. I can get the back space and slick size when i get back to CT on sunday or monday for ya if you want, but after seeing race techs kit which is bolt in with no cutting or welding im going to go with them on my 69ss
bgw67 Dec 6th, 05, 12:32 PM Yes, I moved them inboard this weekend. I used the DSE offset shackles, then cut off the original spring perches. It all bolted together well, and I will weld the perches on for good after I verify pinion angle with the car back together.
rmcamaro Dec 8th, 05, 06:06 PM Yes, I moved them inboard this weekend. I used the DSE offset shackles, then cut off the original spring perches. It all bolted together well, and I will weld the perches on for good after I verify pinion angle with the car back together.How did you cut off the original perches? Are you reusing them? Show us some pics of the install if you can. :)
Rod
bgw67 Dec 9th, 05, 07:33 AM Cut off with a cut off wheel and then ground down. I used the DSE perches instead of tryign to use the old ones. The DSE pieces are very nice, in that you can install and adjust pinion angle, then weld only when you are sure everything is right. I really liked the clamp on aspect. Check them out here.
http://www.detroitspeed.com/AdjustableLeafSpringPads10.html
I'll get pics up this weekend.
|