tired68
Nov 27th, 05, 11:10 PM
The brake warning switch block contains a switch used to light a warning lamp if one of the two hydraulic brake curcuits is leaking somewhere. It also serves the purpose of splitting the fluid sent to the front two brakes.
My switch is pretty grubby. The sliding piston inside doesn't seem to move at all when poked with a toothpick. I think it's corroded in place. It is supposed to be free to slide if pressure on one side is higher than on the other side. This allows it to close the brake warning switch to light a dash warning lamp.
The threaded brake connections are somewhat corroded where the flare didn't cover all of the seat. I'm not sure I want to reintall this part. If I could remove the seat at one end and slide the piston out, inspect and re-ring the pistion, I would be inclined to save it just to keep things original. I'm looking for opinions. I'm not sure if the seat blocking one end comes out without damaging it.
I know there is a service who will rebuild this item for around $75. Do these rebuilds include removing the piston inside, honing any corrosion, replacement of the plastic switch and replacement of the old seats?
What other options are there? Maybe it is okay to split the front lines with a T fitting. Of course the distribution block missing would be unoriginal, but my Hurst roll control won't be "correct" for the car either.
My switch is pretty grubby. The sliding piston inside doesn't seem to move at all when poked with a toothpick. I think it's corroded in place. It is supposed to be free to slide if pressure on one side is higher than on the other side. This allows it to close the brake warning switch to light a dash warning lamp.
The threaded brake connections are somewhat corroded where the flare didn't cover all of the seat. I'm not sure I want to reintall this part. If I could remove the seat at one end and slide the piston out, inspect and re-ring the pistion, I would be inclined to save it just to keep things original. I'm looking for opinions. I'm not sure if the seat blocking one end comes out without damaging it.
I know there is a service who will rebuild this item for around $75. Do these rebuilds include removing the piston inside, honing any corrosion, replacement of the plastic switch and replacement of the old seats?
What other options are there? Maybe it is okay to split the front lines with a T fitting. Of course the distribution block missing would be unoriginal, but my Hurst roll control won't be "correct" for the car either.