hi have just clocked over 500 miles on my new zz454 crate motor when would it be safe useing 150 shot nos ,these engines have forged pistons ,i have rpm airgap with plate system.9.6 comp alloy heads comp roller cam
What you guys think about useing 150 shot on dual plane ,im thinking disturbution proplems ,whats the highest level you guys seen on dual plane?
Motor makes 535 hp 560 fltbs .what et and mph would you guys say it should do on spray,in 3750 lb camaro 3000 stall th400 3.42 gears thanks

I think your fine. I always retard the total timing 2 deg per 50 HP , just to be safe and i never run over a 100 shot on pump on mine, others do but i don't. I have sprayed a 200 shot on my SBC dual plane with no problems. I moved up to this level slowly, all the while checking plugs and monitoring fuel pressure.

As for ET it's dependent on traction and suspension set up. What does it run on motor ?

Id say its safe. You hear all this break in procedure stuff all the time....but think about the purpose built race stuff for example.....they put em together, toss em on the dyno and flog the crap out of em, then put em right to the racetrack and flog em. Heck, even plenty of crate motors and many high performance production cars are dyno tested before the consumer ever gets their hands on them(not just track motors) and they definitely dont take those motors and drive em hudreds of miles, and then pull em back out for dyno testing and shipment! Chances are, if you bought the whole crate engine, your motor has already been thrashed hard on the dyno before you ever got the chance to do anything with it....so Id say its well broken in hehe.

As far as the nitrous goes, I agree to start out slow. Run the lowest level you have and work up slow just to make sure there are no issues once you get to the bigger hit. A 150 shot should prove to be fine on a dual plane. We ran a 150 shot on a small block nova for years and it had cast pistons! 3 years of street driving and drag racing in the mid 11's(as often as possible) and it didnt break with a dual plane. It finally broke when we shoved 250 horses worth into it....but I dont completely blame that on the intake. The whole car cost less than 2 grand to build. Everything including the shortblock was used junk. We were told it was a blown up 305 and got it for free for a couple parts for another motor. Turns out it was a .060 over 350 that looked fine so we ran it with a bunch of other cheap used parts. Once the nitrous got turned up...it still had the stock heat range plugs in it and a bone stock HEI. This is what I beleive killed it more than anything else. After a number of races with the 250 shot, there was a backfire at the top end of the track and a piston got chipped. It wasnt even major. The car still made the 40 mile trip home and got raced 3 or 4 more times with the smaller shot before the heads came off.

Just work up slow to the 150 shot to eliminate any issues and you ought to be good if you pay attention to everything.

535hp + 150shot = 685hp @ 3750lbs - should go around 132mph, which is low low 10s.

yes, but.
whats your fuel system like? you will want to make darn sure it can support a almost 700 horse motor.
so if you fuel system is good, take timing out as mentioned (2* per 50), and possibly a range or two cooler plug. definately start out small, and start out safe (read: fat), and you'll be fine. but push it and go lean, even on a baby size tuneup, and you'll be buying new pistons, and hopefully thats all, forged or not. race gas is also a good idea.
start out fat, lean it out a touch, check plugs, and go from there. never make a huge change in the lean direction, and you'll end up going faster eventually by taking a few small steps each pass.
as for dual plane, 150 will be fine, but more and i think you'll chance distribution problems (again, a lean cylinder and so long piston), and above that imo a single plane will give much better results.
get that all taken care of, and hopefully the chassis can hang with a 700 horse motor. you should definately go low 10's like this.
it will be fun, and start planning on a bigger tuneup, because you'll want it :D

yes, but.
whats your fuel system like? you will want to make darn sure it can support a almost 700 horse motor.
so if you fuel system is good, take timing out as mentioned (2* per 50), and possibly a range or two cooler plug. definately start out small, and start out safe (read: fat), and you'll be fine. but push it and go lean, even on a baby size tuneup, and you'll be buying new pistons, and hopefully thats all, forged or not. race gas is also a good idea.
start out fat, lean it out a touch, check plugs, and go from there. never make a huge change in the lean direction, and you'll end up going faster eventually by taking a few small steps each pass.
as for dual plane, 150 will be fine, but more and i think you'll chance distribution problems (again, a lean cylinder and so long piston), and above that imo a single plane will give much better results.
get that all taken care of, and hopefully the chassis can hang with a 700 horse motor. you should definately go low 10's like this.
it will be fun, and start planning on a bigger tuneup, because you'll want it :D


CHERS 4 the info 68rs have a seperate holley blue fuel pump ,digi 6 nitrous retard what type plugs u use,and what heat range?
What nos plate system has the best distrubtion out there ,some must be better than others at spreading nos more evenly around manifold to cylinders thanks

sounds like you should be good then, it would be nice to have a fuel gauge to watch during a pass, or just start small read plugs and work your way up slowly, so a fuel supply issue doesnt surprise you. the ignition you have should do the trick as well.
i personally run ngk #R5671A-7 plugs in my camaro, motor only, but in the car we race, which is really not a fair comparison since its a drag car with a 632 inch motor, but we run the same plugs in an -8 heat range to warm up, and -10 for racing. this is a 13:1 motor and a two stage fogger setup also, so the plugs we use would be way cold for you. i'd look at maybe a 7 or 8 range with the same plugs. now, this only applies if your heads are a washer seat plug, i'm not sure what those have on them. if its a taper seat, just go ask a parts guy for a plug a heat range or so colder than what your running, at 150 horse its not going to be a huge deal really.
as for plate systems, i don't really know. the only ones i've messed with are just the old style NOS type ones. most all of my experience has been with foggers, which is really the only way to fly imo when going big with tune ups. tunability and distribution is the best with them, you can easily lean or fatten individual cylinders by changing the jets. i know guys that have great luck with plates too, but i just like a fogger better.
i guess for the best plates i would say speedtech nitrous, or 10,000 rpm inc., they both make killer plate systems, but if you aren't going to get real crazy (yeah that never happens with nitrous :D ), like 250 or less, (again purely opinion, since guys go much bigger than that with basic plates, i just wouldn't), i would say any plate kit, from a good company, such as NOS. and additionally, with a dual plane the plate will play very little role in it anyway, as long as it gets evenly to both planes of the intake. i would say maybe look for a 4 hole type?
hope that helps, good luck with it:beers:

One of the magazines just did a comparison on all the plate systems out there. It was maybe a month or two ago. I will look through my pile of mags and see if I can dig it up for you. There was a difference from brand to brand and type to type. I don't remember any huge differences, but there were some.

I run an autolite plug on the small kit and an NGK 9 on the 200 shot with 112 octane and 28 deg total timing.

The best plate hands down in the mag article was the Wilson, it was also the most expensive. All the rest tested were so close in comparison it really didn't matter.

Mike