I have a 1996 V6 Camaro. When it started getting cold out, I found that I had no heat and particles floating around in my coolant. I've had a flush & fill done, replaced the stat, replaced the heater core. I even tried replacing the radiator cap (just in case), but that just made it worse, so I put the original one back on. Other than the radiator cap, each step has seemed to make it a little better, but the heat is still nowhere near optimal. It's been determined that there are no leaks anywhere. Also, when I move my temp dial into the blue, the air coming out of the vents is much stronger than when I move it into the red. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!

When the engine is running, is the coolant in the radiator warm/hot when the engine is running with the thermostat open? Also, feel both of the radiator hoses to make sure they're both hot when the engine reaches operating temperature. It sounds like your main problem is with your heater, and not necessarily with the cooling system. If your heater isn't working, there could be a number of things contributing to that. With the heater on, feel the heater hoses going into the firewall. They should both be hot. If one is not hot, you may have a bad water valve. On modern cars, it's usually a vacuum controlled valve that allows hot coolant to flow through the heater core when the heater switch is turned on. If both hoses are hot, you may have a problem with the blend door, which is the door that directs hot or cold air to the vents. If it's stuck, it may only direct cold air. These can be controlled via either a motor, cable, or vacuum. Hope that helps a bit... Good luck! You also may want to check and make sure the radiator fan isn't constantly running (if electric) and make sure you bleed your cooling system.

If I read your post correctly, you have little or no interior heat.

First, determine if the engine is getting hot enough. Engine temperature gauge showing engine is heating up? Touch the heater hoses and feel if they are hot to the touch. Could use a temperature gun.

If the hoses are hot, then the problem reads like the air temperature door may not be changing, opening/closing, with the control. The door is either stuck/sticking/binding, due to age, a broken actuator motor, or, its not getting a signal from the control head, the part with the controls.

Welcome to the Club !

Thanks, guys! Yep -- hoses are hot, and the temp gauge does show the engine is heating up, as well.

The mechanics at the garage I normally use are now trying to tell me they think it's a blown head gasket. Sounds like if I take it in, they've already got it "prediagnosed," with no intention of even checking the blend door. There's no water in my oil, no oil in my coolant, the car's not overheating.... I think they're trying to hose me. What do you guys think?

TIA!

Do you have to continually keep adding coolant to either the coolant reservior or the radiator? And no external leakage shown?

If they pressurized the cooling system to the full pressure shown on the radiator cap, and the system held pressure, for say, an hour min, then it might be a tight system. Other checks are to input shop air at 100 PSI into each cylinder and view the radiator coolant for air bubbles. Also, to remove spark plugs and view the electrode end for cleanliness.

Hook up a coolant pressure tester with the engine running. Pressurize the system to about 14-15 psi. Raise the RPM's and watch the gauge on the pressure tester. If it fluctuates above 2 or 3 PSI, you probably have a bad head gasket. Also, there is a kit that allows you to take a sample of the coolant from the radiator and it tests to see if exhaust gases are present. If they are, your head gasket is bad. But from what you're describing, I don't think you need to replace your head gasket. What kind of tests did the mechanic shop perform?

Well, I can't be totally sure what all they have done. (This has been such a long road....) However, today she's back in the shop. They're saying the blend door and stuff in the dash checks out, but they removed the water pump and found that there was no water in one of the channels. They pushed coolant through to remove a blockage and are, so far, getting good heat. They're going to fire her up in a little while after she's sat in the cold for a bit. However, if the heat is not sustained once they fire her back up, they may have to pull the head. Is this making sense?

Sounds goofy to me... what happened??

Well, here's how it turned out: I found out that the friend who replaced my stat should have bled the system, but didn't. That's what created the air in the system.

The heater core I'd had installed was an after-market hunk of junk, and it turned out to be the culprit. The mechanic at the garage put in an AC Delco H.C., and all is good again.

Good thing it was an air bubble and not a Headgasket... See my post http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=68660
I'm going through a bit of hell with that V6.

Wow, man, that sucks. Good luck!