sub frame bolt removal [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: sub frame bolt removal


dtm1968
Dec 3rd, 05, 10:41 AM
Need some tips on how to get these bolts loose so I can replace my bushings. I have sprayed them with pb blaster and been triying to impact them with no luck. any help would be appreciated.

tejasrs/ss
Dec 3rd, 05, 11:08 AM
what bolts?

69-x55
Dec 3rd, 05, 11:46 AM
Use big breaker bar if that does'nt work put a pipe over bar to make it longer for more leverage.If you have a torch you can heat the nuts to break the bolts free.

HOGDADDY
Dec 3rd, 05, 02:20 PM
I would try and get some of that penetrant sprayed on the nut itself from above and that would mean removing seats pull back carpet and underlayment and try and get some lube in there. The other two should be easier to get at.

foooz
Dec 3rd, 05, 08:40 PM
I removed mine a couple of weeks ago. Definately get to the top if you can to spray the penetrant. I had my seats and carpet out so it was easy. I believe the middle nuts can be gotten to through holes in the firewall area. I sprayed mine down 2 or 3 times in a week and they came loose with a breaker bar.
scott

davidpozzi
Dec 3rd, 05, 09:03 PM
Use the impact to tighten then loosen the bolt. I like an impact gun for rusty bolts because they shake the rust out, but the nuts are just caged nuts, so be careful or the cage will just pop and then the nut will spin around.

CamarosRus
Dec 3rd, 05, 09:10 PM
KROIL Is The RUST PENETRANT!!!!!........can you understand what I'm trying to tell you.....THIS Stuff Works better than anything else Ive ever tryed or heard about.....................

http://www.kanolabs.com/

The guy who talks about the big breaker bar, with a cheater bar, doesnt know JACK about Restoration Work......"just get a BMFH, kinda guy"

av68
Dec 3rd, 05, 09:28 PM
I had the same problem. Soaked the bolts with PB blaster. I also used a breaker bar and it did the trick.Breaker bars have always worked for me.

pdq67
Dec 3rd, 05, 10:47 PM
I don't know about that b/c PBBlaster is DARN GOOD!

Heck of a lot better than old Liquid Wrench, imho!!!

I soaked mine down over about 3 or 4 days and then used my long 1/2" breaker bar and pop, they came right off!

pdq67

tired68
Dec 3rd, 05, 11:48 PM
Soak it from above with PB Blaster. The PB blaster isn't going to go around the bolt head and uphill to reach the threads. Give it time to work in. Just wiggling the bolt helps get the PB blaster further in. Try heating followed by a spray of the PB Blaster. The quick cooling will draw it into the threads. Try one for a while and go to the next one. Each try draws some more PB blaster into the threads.

Once it's loose don't insist on only loosening. If it starts to get tight again, turn it in some and put more PB Blaster on it. If it's very rusty, clean the exposed threads up with navel jelly. I've had good results on other fasteners such as the gas tank j-bolts by letting navel jelly sit on the part, using a length of hose to keep the jelly wet.

Getting a bigger bar or a larger impact wrench leads to broken bolts. Rule no. 1 is never break a bolt. These are grade 5 and will be great fun to drill out.

clwilcox33
Dec 3rd, 05, 11:51 PM
Getting a bigger bar or a larger impact wrench leads to broken bolts. Rule no. 1 is never break a bolt. These are grade 5 and will be great fun to drill out.

Agreed. Ask me how I know....

mister_copo
Dec 4th, 05, 12:40 AM
As eluded to above, the bolts travel up through the floor and the nuts are located near the front of the seat frames where you will see them once you unbolt the seats and pull the carpet back. David mentioned cage nuts, and this is the U shaped plate that surrounds the nut and keeps it from turning when you tighten or loosen the bolts from the underside.

After heating them with a torch, or soaking them for a couple days from the top side, the bolts should break free. If not then you might need to spot weld the top side of the nuts so that you can really torque on them. If you check things out and you have already been torquing on them, you might find that the cage nuts are spinning which allows the nuts to spin around when you turn the bolts. If thats the case, you'll need to weld the nuts so that you can work the bolt free.

Good luck and keep those knuckles where they belong.

JimM
Dec 4th, 05, 07:51 AM
All good suggestions, except for the long breaker bar. Reread what David said, this is the way to do it. Just "rattle it" in and out with an impact. If you put too much torque on it, the nut cages will break and you'll be screwed. Eventually, the PB blaster, impact rattling, and maybe a lil heat will loosen them up. Evenafter they break free and start to turn, the threads that were above the nut will be rusted and tight, and you'll need to continue runing the bolts in and out with the impact. Every time you go out, they'll comea lil further.

67stang
Dec 4th, 05, 12:30 PM
i had a time with mine. i use wd40, breaker bars, impact wrenches. in the end i had to bust out the cutting torch and heat those darn bolts just to break them loose. <seemed easy with heat.

rojo
Dec 4th, 05, 01:48 PM
What kind of impact gun is being used. I've got a cheapie from Lowes I never use any more mainly because it won't even break a lug nut loose. My Craftsman Professional will break it loose or just break it depending on the setting. BTW I just did both my cars and used the impact to get them free.

67SS&99SS
Dec 4th, 05, 02:15 PM
When I removed mine, I was able to turn 5 of the 6 by hand. :eek: My bushings were completely gone though. Nice and tight now with the new bushings.

dtm1968
Dec 4th, 05, 06:26 PM
well I ended breaking the passenger side front cage loose and had to cut the bolt with a cut off wheel. I am going to keep soaking the other side this week and hopefully have better luck with that side.