View Full Version : Lower Control Arm Bolts (thread lock or lock washers)
dcordle Dec 6th, 05, 06:14 AM Quick question: Is there a reason why I should not use lock washers on the lower control arms bolts? Should I just use thread lock or lock washers since I have some? I wouldn't think it would hurt but there wasn't any when I took them off.
-Dave
thorpe67RS Dec 6th, 05, 07:12 AM From the factory the setup was just the bolt with a locknut. Dont see any reason you couldnt use a lock washer.
dcordle Dec 6th, 05, 08:30 AM The nuts I removed didn't look like locknuts. I'll just add the lock washers to be safe.
Thanks
Silver69Camaro Dec 6th, 05, 09:42 AM The factory locknuts aren't the nylon type, they pinch the bolt when threaded (I forget the formal name). Personally, I would use Locktite.
RickD Dec 6th, 05, 11:05 AM Lock washers aren't very effective. I used Nyloc's but loctite is also an effective solution.
dcordle Dec 6th, 05, 11:12 AM Hmmm... okay, what about lock washers and locktite?
:) I know, it probably doesn't matter as long as I use locktite (thread lock).
davidpozzi Dec 6th, 05, 07:16 PM The factory put a lot of thought and engineering into the bolts used. You can still buy the original bolts from GM. The nuts are a crimp type nut which hold a little better than a nylock in my opinion and resist heat. The bolt is a "wasted" type bolt which is like a head bolt, it holds tension better and stretches more uniformly in the shank which a regular bolt won't do, a regular bolt stretches mostly in the threaded area, since the root diameter is smallest there.
dcordle Dec 7th, 05, 07:47 AM The factory put a lot of thought and engineering into the bolts used. You can still buy the original bolts from GM. The nuts are a crimp type nut which hold a little better than a nylock in my opinion and resist heat. The bolt is a "wasted" type bolt which is like a head bolt, it holds tension better and stretches more uniformly in the shank which a regular bolt won't do, a regular bolt stretches mostly in the threaded area, since the root diameter is smallest there.
Really.... I was told by a couple of people that grade 8 bolts/nuts from the local hardware store would be fine. I just put them in the car this past Sunday. I do not plan on racing the car but I would like to drive it daily in the summers. Should I replace these or will I be okay with what I have?
-Dave
davidpozzi Dec 7th, 05, 04:28 PM Lots of people are using Grade 8 bolts and I think they are fine, but the GM bolts are probaly better engineered to stay tight over a long period of time. I wouldn't worry about your bolts but do check their tightness from time to time. The G8 bolts aren't going to stretch much when installed compared to the factory bolt, and would tend to get loose quicker if the nut backed off just a little, where the factory bolt would hang in there a bit better.
David
dcordle Dec 8th, 05, 07:04 AM Lots of people are using Grade 8 bolts and I think they are fine, but the GM bolts are probaly better engineered to stay tight over a long period of time. I wouldn't worry about your bolts but do check their tightness from time to time. The G8 bolts aren't going to stretch much when installed compared to the factory bolt, and would tend to get loose quicker if the nut backed off just a little, where the factory bolt would hang in there a bit better.
David
Thanks David.
JohnZ Dec 8th, 05, 05:13 PM I wouldn't use ordinary nuts and lockwashers - they're a poor substitute for the correct crimped prevailing-torque nuts.
:beers:
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