Hi all, I decided it's time to just invest in a coil spring compressor. I was hoping some of you could recomend a good one to use with my 68. I've seen lots around all different types, just not sure which one to get.
Thanks
Jeff
http://www.jeffbarnettproductions.com/Camaro/images/Picture%20200.jpg

heh, I just came in from outside trying to figure out how I was going to do this myself. I was going to do a search on the site. Seems like I remember some make-shift spring compressors on here somewhere. I bought a set from Sears, but they put the all thread too near the control arms and won't let me get both ends wrapped around a coil.

I did an ebay search and they seem to have a bunch, I've never had luck buying quality tool on there, I was hoping someone could let us know which brand to buy, Nappa etc.. I know there are all kinds out there, just not all will work with Camaros.

I did the search on the site here. There are TONS of posts on the topic. Do a search on the word Sproing. Lots of folks are also saying in those posts that you can rent a spring compressor for free from Autozone with a deposit.

Here's the "Sproing" thread:

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31071&highlight=sproing

BTW, I was trying to use the spring compressor I bought from the outside of the spring. Most folks said to use it on the inside of the spring, which I'll give a try.

Yes, use and inside spring compressor and only one of the two ears. Works like a charm.

A picture of what one looks like can be found here. It's the one labled Single Action Coil Spring Compressor.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/toolaid/suspn01.html

That's what I need. I have the macpherson ones which is two pieces. Just one of the ears won't even go up inside the shock hole at the bottom. Off to Autozone I go to see if they have one.

/cheers.

Christopher -

That is the style I use. I bought one, but Autozone should have the same thing.

I take the unthreaded block/hooks off and set them aside, then put the compressor bolt down through the upper shock hole. Put the threaded block/hooks up through the lower control arm and thread them onto the bolt, then get the hooks on as low as you can.

Sometimes if you do it this way, you can end up running out of thread before you have all the tension off the spring (trying to let off after you have the lower control arm disconnected and out of the way). I just secure the spring with a chain or strap and let the bolt loose. It's not much tension at that point, but it's better to be safe.

Autozone will have it. To me, no sense in buying one, you can keep the autozone one as long as you like and get all your $$ back when you finally return it. I kept one for almost a year.

Got back from Autozone, they had the right one. It was a pain in the ass to get the hook part up inside the coil and hooked on. I had to use a pry bar to spread the coils apart to get the hooks around them, but it worked great once I got them on and the all-thread screwed back in.

Eric: The blocks on my MacPherson compressors were too big to go inside the shock hole and up inside the coil. I tried that. I appreciate the advice though.

The good news is (not saving money on my car insurance), my subframe is now completely disassembled. Yay. I also went by Loews while I was out and bought a large chain to wrap around the spring. Good thing too, one side popped out with a horrendous amount of noise and force when I released the spring compressor (slowly).

Now I need to figure out if I can salvage this frame...

Thanks for the help guys.

I'll post some pictures I took of the process for others later tonight.

When I said "that is the style I use", I meant the internal one like Funk posted. Sorry, I should have been more clear. I (and many others) just use it with only one set of hooks, as described.

Springs are no fun, but after you've done it a half dozen times (getting the ride height just right is such a pain ;) ), it's easy.

The good news if you use the Eibach, Hotchkis, or Global West drop springs is that you shouldn't need a compressor to get them in. If you use OE replacement or reinstall the ones you removed, you'll need it.

One trick I used on this car to get the springs into the lower control arm pockets without drama (remember, when I put them in they are already seated in the top pocket because of the way I use the spring compressor) was to use a ratcheting tie down hooked to one of the lower coils and then to the front subframe/body mount. Very easy and safe way to move the end of the spring a little at a time while you let the compressor off and seat the spring in the the lower control arm.

Thanks for the info, I just bought that one you linked to, I am a desperate, lazy man.. I figure I may need it again sometime in the future, I just hope this works. Is this the same one you used?
Thanks,
Jeff

Well I decided to upload the pics I took for others to view as future reference. I had pulled the subframe out into my back yard so I could work on it in the sun where it was warmer :)

Here's the MacPhersen spring compressor I bought originally, it was impossible to use it on the outside of the coil springs, and the end wouldn't fit up inside the hole for the shock to use inside the spring:

http://home.comcast.net/~clwilcox33/coils/macpherson.jpg

Here's the single action I rented from Autozone. The deposit was $50:

http://home.comcast.net/~clwilcox33/coils/singleaction.jpg

And here is the spring compressor in action:

Driver's Side:

http://home.comcast.net/~clwilcox33/coils/leftspring1.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~clwilcox33/coils/leftspring2.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~clwilcox33/coils/leftchain.jpg

The Driver's side tried to come flying out when I released the compressor, and I released it slowly too. USE A CHAIN!!

http://home.comcast.net/~clwilcox33/coils/leftspring3.jpg

Passenger's Side:

http://home.comcast.net/~clwilcox33/coils/rightspring1.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~clwilcox33/coils/rightspring2.jpg

By the way, in order to get the end of the single action spring compressor up inside the shock hole and turned right, I had to insert it one hooked end at a time then turn it around while inside the spring, which there was very little room to do so. I used a pry bar between coils to pry room between two coils for the hooked end to engage and get it turned up right and hooked onto the coil.

Hope these help someone in the future.

"The Driver's side tried to come flying out when I released the compressor, and I released it slowly too. USE A CHAIN!!"

I used 5/8-11 threaded rod. The spring cannot get away from you with this setup. You need to drop the control arm at the same time.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-12/919290/P1000855a.jpg

What do you mean by dropping the lower arm. I'm at the point this weekend where the coils need to come out.

Question: When are you removing the nuts on the spindle and when are you lowering the lower arm??

What do you mean by dropping the lower arm. I'm at the point this weekend where the coils need to come out.

Question: When are you removing the nuts on the spindle and when are you lowering the lower arm??


you place your floor jack just under the lower a arm with about a half inch space between them. Then you pop the ball joint and the jack will keep everything from going anywhere. Then just slowly lower the lower a arm all the way down and the spring should come right out. It might need a little help, but not much. I only use the spring compressor when installing the spring.

In my example, I removed the bolts for the lower control arm bushings and the ball joint connections with the spring tension removed from those parts by the threaded rod. The threaded rod works similarly to a spring compressor except it doesn't have fingers that can shift on you. I needed to move the arm to another subframe and needed new bushings anyway. I also didn't have the engine weight there which makes lowering with a jack somewhat of a problem.

Once the bushings and ball joints were disconnected, I lowered the A-arm by loosening the nut on the threaded rod. It works out very safe and sane this way with nothing trying to sproing out. If the spring does shift, it can't go anywhere because the rod is locked through the center. If you lower the A-arm without a compressor, such as with a jack, I recommend chains to protect against injury.

The manual shows this being lowered with a special tool cradled underneath the bushings and the bolts through the bushings removed. The cradle tool goes between the jack and the control arm to prevent it from shifting off the jack.

I've never tried the other method where the arm remains attached at the bushings. Anyway, work carefully around springs.

Thank you for the info I too am changing sub Frames and the motor has been removed. This being Christmas Week End I'll have to sneak out to the garage for the attampt.

I did the search on the site here. There are TONS of posts on the topic. Do a search on the word Sproing. Lots of folks are also saying in those posts that you can rent a spring compressor for free from Autozone with a deposit.

Here's the "Sproing" thread:

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31071&highlight=sproingI rented mine from Autozone and it worked well. You're deposit to rent is actually the purchase price. You buy it and when you return it they give you your money back. I think it was around $50.00

I rented mine from Autozone and it worked well. You're deposit to rent is actually the purchase price. You buy it and when you return it they give you your money back. I think it was around $50.00

Yep, if you read further down you'll see how I went and did that and how it all turned out. Thanks for the info though :D

Mine are out, with no problem, compressed them a bit, and lowered the arm with a floor jack then let off the spring tension as I would lower the arm, they barely made a pop when they came out.. Whats the deal with the 2" lowering springs from Hotchkis? my 68 sat like a dump truck in the front it seemed to be really high in the front, higher in the front then in the back, I would think 2" drop would improve things, looks and handling?
Anyone have any thoughts

Mine came out with little to no problems. I stopped on my way home Thur and picked up some 5/8-11 all thread, washers, and nuts. came home and popped a hole in a 3" piece of U shaped scrap (about 1 foot long) and out they came. Again thanks to all I'll have a happy Christmas knowing that then there springs are out !!!

Merry Christmas to all till later