I was looking at Fat Man tubular A arms and had previousely asked about Gulstrandt modification (which sounds good). I am cleaning up my sub frame now so I need to start planning if I have to redrill or relocate the tabs.

Also,,,those A arms come in a narrow version,,,, does that allow for more BS as well as wider front rubber??

Holla' back

Tubular upper arms were made by Global West with the upper balljoint moved rearward for more caster, that is the reason for tubular arms, more caster, like 5 degrees more.
A tubular arm that does not increase caster will not do anything to help handling.
More caster will usually be enough for a street driven Camaro, if you really like to hang corners or want to autocross or open track your car, then do the Guldstrand mod too. I don't believe the Fatman uppers allow more caster, so you should probably do the Guldstrand mod.

A 1" shorter upper arm would require a 1" shorter lower arm to match. This pulls the whole knuckle assy and wheel in 1" which is a poor way of increasing tire to fender lip clearance. It's much better to get the proper offset wheel for your car, than make the suspension geometry worse by using shorter arms.

David,
What about the narrowed arms? Would those cause a negative affect on geometry or...?
Basically, I'll be trying to run the widest 18 inch tire on the front possible(and not sacrifice handling). What do I have to do to run 275's like CarlC?
I was thinking, narrowed control arms with the guldstrand mod but will I be able to keep my inner fenders?
Thanks so much,

Donnie

Narrowed arms would hurt geometry, not a huge amount but it's in the wrong direction. Merely selecting the right offset of wheel should fix any tire problems and reduce scrub radius which will help reduce wheel kick back and other negatives.

Here is a post I copied about Carl's setup:
"275 TIRES ALL AROUND
yes carl is running i believe, 17x9.5 all around with 5.5 backspace, the keys to them fitting on the front are Speedtech upper and lower control arms (not as wide as stock arms), and the adjustable steering stops onthe lower arms, also the big key to this swap is having the short steering arms, thats very important, you will lose some turning radius but from what carl said, not a whole lot. no problems in rear with fitment, hopefully carl will pipe in
jake
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By "not as wide" he means the arms are stock length, just the upper arm is a bit more narrow so the wheel doesn't hit when it turns. The lower Speed Tech arms have adjustable turn stops so can be set to keep the tire from hitting the subframe. First gen's turn sharper than later cars, were designed around very narrow tires.
here is carl's website: http://www.geocities.com/casanoc/

What David said.....

The limiting factor now is the lower A-arm. That is where the rim hits first in the current configuration.

A larger diameter rim will help a bit. It will get a bit more steering back, but in all honesty, the reduced steering to me is a non-issue. The car can still do a 3-point turn on a residential street.

A 275 - 18 should not be a problem but the diamater cannot be much larger than a 275/40/17. Things start to get real tight in the wheelwell, especially on the outboard side.

Carl and David,
Thanks so much. So, the speedtech's with the guldstrand mod are the way to go? With the adjustable lower's right?
Thanks again,
Donnie