Does anyone have a picture of what the actual wire to sending unit connection looks like for a 69Z

I don't have a picture but I have a Z with a "correct" replacement harness. The connector is an ring that connects to the stud on the sender. Rick's (and others I assume) sell the correct repro sending unit. I can snap a picture if you want.

Im pretty sure the 69 Z with gauges used the screw on type. At least thats the type I bought as "correct".

A side question: What is the length of the temp wire, from the harness to the temp sending unit, correctly routed? The harness I'm using, that wire was cut, so Im having to splice in the new stuff.

dave

Im pretty sure the 69 Z with gauges used the screw on type. At least thats the type I bought as "correct".

A side question: What is the length of the temp wire, from the harness to the temp sending unit, correctly routed? The harness I'm using, that wire was cut, so Im having to splice in the new stuff.

dave

22" from where the temp sender wire leaves the harness to the ring connector.

Im pretty sure the 69 Z with gauges used the screw on type. At least thats the type I bought as "correct".

daveI believe you are correct Dave. The sender without gauges use the clip on type.

Larry

Dave and 69-er, yes the gages used stud type sending unit. For a long time the stud type was not available. They are like $30 thru Rick's.

Here's a drawing for the non-gauge connector: The slot in the connector slips over the "T" shaped stud on the sender. The connector doesn't connect like a normal one, although it can fit the standard male spade terminal. This connector slides over the stud from the side of the sender.

Larry

http://www.ronfrancis.com/imagebox.php?name=pic/part-thumb278.jpg (http://www.ronfrancis.com/showpage.php?page=detail.htm&partid=278)

If I use this with a console temp gauge will it work right?

No, it won't fit on the sender. If this is the connector you have, you can cut it off and crimp on a ring terminal. Won't be factory correct, but will be perfectly functional.

Larry

Or, are you talking about the sender? You need one with the threaded stud for gauges. The sender for the inst lights is a switch. The gauge would only work when the the engine over heats. The gauge would peg to the right and and be pegged to the left when at normal operating temp.

Larry

Ok Here's the deal. I have #34620 Temp Pigtail Kit from Ricks.
I also have Part #G1852 Temp Sending Unit from Ricks.
There is 3 different applications with the pigtail kit and the only setup that looks like it will work says for use with no gauges.
The sending unit has a button on the end and it looks like you would slide a
connector over it.

Something's not right. I was able to find those numbers in the Classic Ind.'s catalog, but not in Ricks. That G1852 is supposed to be for gauges. It looks like you got one for lights. You would use use the ring terminal from the pigtail kit for use with a sender that has the threaded stud, not the button stud, like you have.

I was looking at Rick's CG-19 sender and it has a "mushroom" head, or button, but it's for gauges. I thought that type would be for lights.

??????

Larry

I goofed the sending unit is from Classic and so is the kit.
The G1852 I have came with a mushroom or button head. So the only connection that will work on this type end is the on in the kit for lights not gagues?

That's what it looks like, if our theory is right on what the studs are supposed to look like.

The only way to find out for sure is to get out the ol' voltmeter and measure the resistance from the stud to the body of the sender. If it's a gauge sender, the reading should be around 400 ohms. If it's a sender for lights, there will be infinate resistance, in other words, an open circuit as it's a switch which only closes at about 270 degrees.

Larry

It looks like the the CG-29 is what you would use for the 69. It's also correct in appearance. The CG-19 says it will work with 68-69 gauges, but it's only correct for a 67.

So, if you are not picky, the one you have should work, it just won't be correct in appearance.

Larry

Are you saying that the connection from the wire to the sending unit doesn't really matter but the type of sending unit does?

Right. The system doesn't care what the connector has. But the sender must be the proper type or the lights or gauges won't work. If Rick says it will work, I'd believe him. If you install it and it's wrong it won't hurt anything. Just in case you need to return it, you might want to just attach a wire from the body of the sender to a good ground on the engine. Or check the resistance before you install it.

Larry

Just checked out the sending unit with volt meter and the reading was .745
This is for the G1852. If Iam reading this right it means this sending unit is for lights?

Is the function set to ohms? Also, is it an auto range voltmeter? .745 might be reading milivolts, even though there is no real voltage present.

Larry

My console guage works good and its the type of wire plastic end as shown above and it slips over the button type sender thats plugged into my block.
Hard to describe that little sucker but its a stem of brass with a mini nail head top on it. The plastic wire end with the brass fitting then snugs over that button sideways. Not sure about all those parts numbers but I recall Ricks and the others having many kinds of senders and connector types too. :)

My 67 has factory gauges and uses the sender with a nail head shape. I've worked on quite a fiew cars and pickups of that era and they all had that type sender terminal for both guages and idiot light. It may be that 69's had a threaded stud type for gauges, but I find it a little suprising.

The original factory temp sender for 69's with gauges had a threaded stud, and the sender wire had a ring terminal on it, secured with a hex nut and star washer (see photo).

Some replacements have a threaded stud, some have the "nailhead" that takes a slip-on connector - doesn't matter; what DOES matter is that you need a sender with a temperature-sensitive variable resistor (thermistor) in it, for GAUGES. The sender for idiot lights is simply a temperature-sensitive on-off switch, and won't drive the gauge. Both types look the same - if you don't know which one you have, check it with an ohmmeter; the correct sender will show about 600-700 ohms at room temperature from the center terminal to the shell, and the idiot light sender will show an open circuit. If you suspend the gauge sender in a pan of hot water and check it, its resistance will decrease steadily as the water heats up, and will show about 80-100 ohms when the water boils.

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2002-2/13522/TempSender.JPG

:beers: