Hey everyone, I was sandblasting my firewall this week and found something pretty interesting.

I found writing in permanent marker on the firewall which seems to be from the factory.

It had a letter I couldnt read followed by 33. Also x77 was right next to it.'

Is this how they designated the cars from the factory?
I thought this was pretty interesting.:cool:

Talk soon. Justin

Justin any chance you can snap a digital pic of that area for us to see? If you cant post it online somewhere and link to it here, email it to one of us and we can post if for you, always neat to see something like that. :)

Did it look similar to these? This pic was before blasting. Just scotch pad and lacquer thinner, and they begin to show through. You can see how some appear to have been under the black, while the other writing showed up as shiny, clean steel. The GLD and OK were black, while D80, M20, the mystery mark under the GLD (N60?), and an 8 next to the trim tag were clean metal.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b217/RamAirDave/Random/100_0090sm.jpg

Those are chalk marks. The only time Ive ever seen anything look like permanent marker was this pic. I have no idea what it means.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b217/RamAirDave/Random/100_1411sm.jpg


dave

This is not all that uncommon; it is one of the non-documented realities of our cars that GM actually did!!!!

better document them and put the markings back the way they left the factory, otherwise your car will only be worth half as much..
isn't that rule #1 in the Mopar restoration rulebook?

better document them and put the markings back the way they left the factory, otherwise your car will only be worth half as much..
isn't that rule #1 in the Mopar restoration rulebook?

lol, derrik. I think I got pretty close. Main variance was I moved the D80 from under/over the GLD to the area where the "mystery" mark was, since I couldnt figure out what it was, or even find a code close to it. And I put them over the black, rather than under. :o Hope that doesnt cut the value in half.

And yes, I document all of them :thumbsup:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b217/RamAirDave/GoldZ/100_1452sm.jpg

dave

What do the orange letters T,B,P signify?

Thanks.

P aint
B ody
T rim
They were stamped as those areas were inspected.

Hey Guys, I have a Final Exam this morning and then I will try to take some pics of the lettering. I believe it was B33 X77.

Thanks for all the feedback, Many of the pictures shown are very similar.

Justin

The firewall grafitti belongs under the paint. The black out operation was done after the body was painted meaning it was already "GLD"

Not going to affect value, just the opinion of the restoration.

Is it true that the red letters BT or P ment there was a problem with what ever was in red and the green letters ment the BT or P was OK?

Is it true that the red letters BT or P ment there was a problem with what ever was in red and the green letters ment the BT or P was OK?

No - just meant that particular area had been inspected and was OK; any open items on the car that needed attention were written on an inspection ticket that traveled with the body through the Fisher Body Trim Shop and was removed before it was shipped to Chevrolet. Once the inspection/repair ticket was "clean", the firewall was stamped (only at Norwood).
:beers:

Ive always heard that green was for night shift, and orange was for day shift. Any truth to that, or just a rumor?

dave

Hey everyone, I finally have the pictures. It is extremely hard to see the letters and numbers. I have re-written what I could make out in the other picture.

Hope y'all can see it.

That is as far as I could get blasting in 20 degree weather. Lines kept freezing!:mad:

http://community.webshots.com/album/522245949WvbHTv

Dave, your mystery mark is N10 for dual exhast. I found it on mine . between the two I have checked I found C60 N10 Z22 D80 A67 M21 and Z10 along with a 3 didget number and a couple of squiggley marks. I believe it was put on when the shells were bare metal and all alike to show options that had to be cut out or welded. I am doing an LA car now and found nothing. although it had ben monkeyed with before.

The option codes were put on and it was painted and the the color was wrote on top. I have had several cars where you could read an abbreviated color. On one of mine you could read ORN. When I starter blasting the ORN started going away and the other stuff started showing up under it. I always wondered why they wrote the color on the black because the car was alrweady painted. Now I guess it was before and the firewall was blacked out again. the reason you can see it on some unrestored firewalls is the paint after a while came off the wax. If you blast carefully and watch it will show up. but don't blast to much to fast or you will lose it.

Well I went to the garage today and started scrubbing on the firewall of this one and found these.
Before-

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c107/PaceCarNut/Pacecar4001.jpg

After-
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c107/PaceCarNut/Pacecar4013.jpg

Then behind where the distributor would be found this?
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c107/PaceCarNut/Pacecar4014.jpg
Could it be for white? or white top? It is a conertible w/ white top.

After soda blasting my 69, I found "AC" for air conditioning on the firewall. Must have been written with a grease pencil?
http://img495.imageshack.us/img495/8546/p101002610uf.th.jpg (http://img495.imageshack.us/my.php?image=p101002610uf.jpg)

Dayton, is that a LA car or Norwood?

LA car

my 69 LA car had the same "AC" mark on the firewall as Dayton's


Dan

Here's what I found on my '67 after media blasting:

http://67z28.com/gallery/albums/67%20Z28%20Restoration%20Photo%20Chronicle/Disassembly/DCP_0915.jpg

Dave, your mystery mark is N10 for dual exhast. I found it on mine

Youre probably right on that. I dont know how I overlooked that. I had looked through the RPO codes to figure out what it couldve been, but somehow that one slipped by me.


dave

I have some chalk marks under the suitcase but didnt pull the whole thing to see the rest of the numbers, this is all that showed :

http://www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS/UnderHood/firewall%20marks1.JPG

Well I went to the garage today and started scrubbing on the firewall of this one and found these.
Before-

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c107/PaceCarNut/Pacecar4001.jpg

After-
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c107/PaceCarNut/Pacecar4013.jpg

Then behind where the distributor would be found this?
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c107/PaceCarNut/Pacecar4014.jpg
Could it be for white? or white top? It is a conertible w/ white top.
************************************************** ********
This is EXACTLY what VAN NUYS did with the Z28's and Pace Cars!
I have now let my cat out of the bag!
My VN Pace Car is proof of this!
One day I need to have someone over to document the transcription that is present...
For all of those who discredit VN cars from X-coded cars as real vs. "whatever", I feel that my Pace Car shall present the final exclusivity of actual vs. intended cars. Whether your car is a coded Norwood X33 car vs. a VN Z28, most , if not all VN Z28s carry the specific intended option code for the car being assembled. However, on our VN cars, Z28s I feel will need more documenting than paint/interior codes to prove their originality.
I have had over 20 1969 Camaros and most were VN cars and over the last 22 years of my experience, all of this was existing on each one; it was just a matter of whatever car you had that was coded to be what it is intended from the order.

Also, just to let everyone know the "WT" on the firewall behind the distributor is for white. I have found the same "WT" on two of my others which are coupes. 1-Z10 and 1-X11
Still trying to figure out what the "XO" are the rear seat bulk head is? Anyone??

I had a thread on the yenko site where I stripped my firewall and found a bunch of codes. Others posted some as well. Take a look it starts on page 5 and continues on... Always cool to find those markings....

To recreate those I primered the firewall. Then I wrote the codes on and then sprayed the firewall black.. Came out pretty good in my opinion...

http://www.yenko.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/117918/page/19/fpart/10/vc/1

Here is a shot after I sprayed. Note the RGP above the heater core...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v674/dagcostello/140-4040_IMG.jpg

Darren,
I will say this, If your 38 page posting does'nt get people motivated, then there is no help for them.
Man, what an awesome job on the car itself, but your progress updates where incredible. Thanks for sharing.
2 Thumbs up man.

Thanks Chuck. Before I started I was looking for tips on the task I was about to take on. It had been years since I had my car all apart and I knew there were some new info and resto tips out there. Anyway, I didn't really find that much. So when I started I tried to document as much as possible so that it might help others that might feel intimidated with this kind of job. Looking back there were some things I did that I didn't like but it prepped me for the next time. I had many people both on and off line tell me that they enjoyed the thread. Even had a few professional restorers positively comment on it which was really rewarding.

Darren,

What is the best way to remove the paint from the firewall without damaging the wax codes?

I know others have media blasted with success. But in my case (working out of the garage) I did fine with ordinary paint stripper from Menards/Home Depot. I did small sections at a time and didn't let the stripper sit there for long. I used a scraper to get the big layers of paint off. Then I took fine steel wool to gently get the rest off. I am pretty sure I found everything that was there and didn't destroy anything in the process. But who knows.

I found: RGP "Rallye Green Paint", M22, Z21 and a few others that didn't quite compute. Also found a big 5 under the heater motor...

Just for the sake of conversation. Even after wirewheeling the firewall to prep for paint I could still see the most of the marks. Looks like the grease pencil absorbs the paint that was applied over/under it and soaks it into the metal over the years...

I use a scotch brite with a little lacquer thinner to remove the paint while revealing the markings underneath.

dave

Wow Darren, very nice! I love the Green/ white. Did you do the video?

Rob

Appreciate it Rob. Only video I did was of the motor first fire. That link is in the thread. I apologize if I am changing the focus of the thread but greatly appreciate the kind words..

My bad- sorry!

Rob


Appreciate it Rob. Only video I did was of the motor first fire. That link is in the thread. I apologize if I am changing the focus of the thread but greatly appreciate the kind words..