Super T-10 Swap Questions [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: Super T-10 Swap Questions


nevinreilly
Dec 16th, 05, 06:36 AM
Hi all - Long time reader, first time poster. Looking to swap a Super T-10 into my '68 Powerglide car. Have the Z-bar set up and pedal assembly and will likely purchase a rebuilt T-10 this weekend, getting everything (flywheel, bellhousing, clutch, transmission and shifter).

My questions are:

1) How many teeth are on the stock 'glide flexplate - trying to determine if my stock starter will work with the T-10 assembly.

2) Will the transmission bolt up directly to my existing crossmember?

3) Is there a specific shifter for this application, or will I need to source a combination of Muncie shift rods to make it work?

4) Will I have to modify the driveshaft/replace the yolk, or will it end up being the same length as my Powerglide, which seems much longer?

Appreciate any help before I embark on this swap.

Nevin

DenRS
Dec 16th, 05, 07:47 AM
Not really an expert here, but I have a 1st design ST-10 in my 69 which originally was a powerglide. My ST-10 was installed before I bought the car, so I don't know what starter/flywheel was on there originally. Right now, I have 168 tooth flywheel with a 621 bellhousing and an Centerforce DF 11 inch clutch and a stock gm starter. No problems with this combo. Make sure you have the correct clutch fork for a 68. I had a heavy duty one and it hit the firewall. You can still get the correct fork from your chevy dealer. You can use the powerglide crossmember. I use a Hurst comp plus made for a 69 camaro. You should get a shifter made for a 68, however, make sure you buy the correct linkage kit for the ST-10. There were two versions of the ST-10, the 1st design and 2nd design. I think they started using the 2nd design after 1974. The 1st design has the small output shaft so you should be able to still use your stock powerglide drive shaft, but I'm not sure if it needs to be shorten. If you have the second design, they have the turbo 400 output shaft so you will need to change your drive shaft to fit. You didn't say if you are using a center console or not. This will be a lot easy install if your not using a center console, but if you are, you can make one work. The shifter is not in the same locaton as a muncie.

Good luck
Dennis

nevinreilly
Dec 16th, 05, 07:52 AM
Thanks for the response. I believe this will be the '74 and later model - will check it out in person this weekend, so probably will need to get a driveshaft. Good tip on the fork - I'm not sure what this will have. It's coming out an '80s Malibu, but was not stock.

I do have a console, so my primary concern is if I'll be able to get a shifter to work with it.

oger
Dec 17th, 05, 09:17 AM
Get a flywheel that has the same number of teeth as your flex plate for the auto and the starter will work. It bolts to the factory bellhousing and crossmember but you must get a driveshaft about 1in shorter. If you have a console you must play with an adaptor to get the shifter in the correct place but it isn't hard.

nevinreilly
Dec 17th, 05, 09:40 AM
Thanks. I emailed Hurst's tech folks and they suggested a T-10 linkage kit that would work w/ the Competition Plus shifter they make for the car, so that shouldn't be too much of a hassle.

For the Powerglide flexplate - does anyone know how many teeth are on those in '68? I've not been able to find a definitive answer, and not really looking forward to counting teeth when I pull the trans.

On the driveshaft - I'm assuming I can get a driveshaft place to make one for me for a reasonable price.

Again - appreciate the help.

Nevin

italiano362
Dec 17th, 05, 10:33 AM
I have a complete setup ( Super T-10, Ram clutch, crossmember, bellhousing,brand new Hurst Comp plus shifter,installation kit) for sale. The tranny is rebuilt with 5 miles on it and the clutch. Very strong clutch also.E-mail me if interested. Torlando@new.rr.com

67ragtp
Dec 17th, 05, 03:04 PM
Nevin,

The second design t-10 uses a 32 spline output shaft and your glide has a 28 spline output. You will need a new front yoke for the driveshaft and quite possibly may need to shorten te shaft. A muncie sure would make your swap alot easier since your driveshaft would be a direct swap and no question on the cross member and shifter is an easy bolt in.

The glide I pulled out of my car had 153 tooth ring gear. if you are getting a 403 gm bell housing it will need a 153 tooth flywheel and 10.5 inch clutch, if the bell housing is the 621 then it can use an 11 inch clutch and a flywheel with 168 tooth ring gear.

BTW- universal driveshaft is on the end of route 17 in rutherford, they can help with your shaft resizing if you want or you could by a new shaft from dennys.

E-mail me if you want to talk about the conversion, Ive don a bunch and build muncies and T-10s although I never actually installed a t-10 in a first gen camaro, built a few gearboxes for the tri-five guys in my area( northwest bergen county). ragtp@optonline.net

Rich

Rob.Canada
Dec 19th, 05, 07:58 PM
I swapped out the glide for the t-10, used the large flywheel and bell housing, had to replace the starter, as far as the drive shaft, I picked up a used yoke and a new u-joint from NAPA, I asked for an inside outside lock,
No shortening of the drive shaft etc.

nevinreilly
Dec 19th, 05, 08:43 PM
Appreciate everyone's help - I cut a deal that gets me the whole assembly - starter, flywheel, clutch, bellhousing, shifter (though doubt it'll work with the console) and of course the trans, all of which has about 2k on it. Looks like I now just need to get a TH400 style yoke for the driveshaft and new U-joints and tap the holes in the subframe so I can bolt up the Z bar and connect it to my pedal.

One question - does anyone have a diagram/measurements for cutting the hole in the tranny tunnel for the shifter. The only one I came across on this site was for switching to an aftermarket floor mounted automatic shifter.

Having a car that moves under it's own power will be very exciting, though it's a project that's far from complete...

Rob.Canada
Dec 23rd, 05, 08:01 PM
When I did the switch, I found that the floor pan has several dimples, after you remove the P/G shifter look for the four dimples on the floor that form about a 3 X 3 box / square. I bolted the tranni with shifter (without stick) in place( without cross member) and lifted up untill the shifter hit the floor, drilled a small hole and kept cutting the hole larger until I figured it would be large enough, then found the dimples and cut to size, right size hole for the shifter boot and console