Well after 2 days and 6 failures, I got a good front piece. The back half mold has been pretty consistant for 8 copies so far. I can only do 2 or 3 tries per day.

Front piece was really tricky too, but I finally got 1 good one. Took some pics and did a full trial assembly. Guts do not seal as well as I expected. I think the rubber seals have dried out, not the fault of the plastic parts. The metal clips are real tight, I had to bend them a little to get them on. Of course, a tab broke on my only good (now bad copy) getting the clips off. They must be pried off of the rear ONLY! :(

Once I get a few more copies of the front piece, I will be able to ship the 2 eval copies. No PMs about these yet, let me make some extras before all the emails start.

I think I will make some non functional ones too.

I still can't figure out how to get a good pic of the new ones. Even without the flash, I cannot capture the details!

http://www.fototime.com/D708D253B26203A/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/284D8199BA54E08/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/3202F7B201A3095/standard.jpg

But it is progress!

Kevin....Looks sweet! Curious...what are you using for the needle valves? I spoke to a guy today who says he might be able to repop the solenoid too! With your molds,some needles and Mr. Solenoid, your RS repro pump might be in BID-NESS! ( Thats how we say it in Texas ) Bob :)

Bob, I was not going to get into the internals of this (I have 1 set of internals for my car). I was mainly providing just the 2 plastic parts to repair broken ones. If the spring and needle valve are missing, I can close up the hole to the headlight squirter and make it non-functioning. The windshield washers will still work as long as you still have the O-ring.

If someone else repros the internals and the coil and coil bracket, I can certainly talk to him :) and see what can be worked out.

I now have 2 good ones after a couple of goofs today. I am getting the hang of this mold. I have to pound on it while pouring to get the air bubbles out. I will keep making the fronts until I catch up to the rears already done.

I'm having fun, I keep telling myself! :D

Try using a lighter colored background for your pictures-- it should help balance out the exposures.

I'm pleased with your progress, but don't hurry too fast-- I'm about to search my garage for my two used solenoids to sell on eBay, and I don't need the price to drop now!!

D, since I am not reproducing the metal parts (maybe someone else though), you will still have time for Ebay. Anyway, originals always go for more than repros :) But get them up soon, I want to start selling these soon.

FYI, made 3 good ones from many bad ones :( I am not happy with the mold, so I made another mold and we will see if that works better. First mold was very prone to air pockets that were tough to get out.

OK, got a bunch now. Bob B. to get 2 first, haven't heard from Z28Doug?? On to Ebay soon :D Once I get a feel for how much these go for, I will create a discounted TC price.

Got some good pics for the auction

http://www.fototime.com/D503E95E37E9845/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/33895F0D9A79398/standard.jpg

http://www.fototime.com/C961C96508690B9/standard.jpg

Looks great Kevin, any way to darken or tint the plastic solution you use while in the mold process to give it the look of 'weathered' or what it would look like at 36 years of age instead of the bright white? :)
Next is to repro the tag that went with it :)

http://www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS/HeadlightWasherInstructions.JPG

Jim, I do have colors, but they turn out bright too. I figure if you get the bright white repro pump nozzles, they will go nicely with my repros :)

Do you know the name of the material the original parts are made of? I'm in the process of trying to save two broken originals (to sell one and use one) and I have a good friend in the adhesives business. If I knew the composition of the original parts he could make a better recommendation on a glue or process to repair them. I'm going to post a similar message as a new thread in the general tech section.

I'm not sure what the originals are made from. They are injected plastic. The problem with the broken ones are the material right under the coil is very thin, so the magnatizim can get to the needle valve. That is why they break, thin plastic. They also have to fit into the coil, so you cannot goop the adhesive in. There is only a little bit of mating surface to glue to. Luck!

here is one on ebay now, just the plastic center piece if you want to create a new mold from this one?
solenoid tube (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/69-1969-CAMARO-RALLY-SPORT-HEADLAMP-WASHER-NICE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ10076QQitemZ460312 2386QQrdZ1)

Jim, joparts emailed me when my first auction was up, saying he had 100s of the same thing I was selling. He said to watch his next auctions. The tube looks very close to the original, but has that edge right in the middle of the tube. Originals tapered there. The color is good, but if someone buys it and puts it on an original, the color diff will be noticable, that is why I casted both parts to look the same color. He also put up a nice RS wiper motor, but the tube looks like it is damaged to me. The soleniod is not straight. I guess whomever buys the wiper, may have to get my product to fix it :D.

I just sent off a set to Dennis. Hopefully he can write a review for it :)

great :)

Jim, I still have a couple made from the 1st batch, were you interested?

Kev you have a pm

I knew this would happen..... I had both of my assemblies apart for so long I can't remember the orientation of the needle valve and spring inside the solenoid tube!! At rest with no electrical inputs, does the spring hold the needle valve against the base seat (in the other plastic part) or against the seat in the tube?

Spring faces the long nozzle. The needle has a very small shoulder if you look closely. This is a "guide" for the spring. Long side of needle faces the coil.

Here ya go, just took my spare apart and used Kevin's new plastic tube for the pic :)

http://www.brainerd.net/~knudsen/69RS/Misc.Stuff/69RS%20solenoid%20Parts.jpg

Thanks for the assembly details. I finished my repair of two of the tubes last night. I used standard super glue to hold the parts together. After that cured for a day, I used a two-part epoxy that dies to an amber color to build-up the assembly from the outside-- adding a bit of a radius where the tube meets the body of the part. After this cured for two days, I carefully scraped excess epoxy away with a sharp blade, then sanded the basal area of the tube down until it will just fit back inside the solenoid. In fact, the solenoid now actually applies some pressure to help keep the repair secure. I used a very sharp new 1/4 inch drill bit by hand to remove the small amount of super glue that crusted on the inside. It looks pretty good when all is assembled. I have not had any chance to test it out, but I don't think much could go wrong from this point.