Serious floor rot... Can it be fixed? [Archive] - Team Camaro Tech

: Serious floor rot... Can it be fixed?


houndog72
Sep 10th, 00, 12:28 PM
A little background on my car - the previous owner had alot of body work done - 1/4s, fenders, floors, door skins, trunk, not sure what else. I poked around on the subframes and frame rails, and I think they're pretty solid. But there's one spot on the car that wasn't done - the floor under the drivers feet (common rust spot, I know). I found some small holes there, and of course it was a can of worms when I started poking at it. I'm ready to put a toe board patch in, but I'm worried about the metal underneath - the part that is also one of the subframe mounting points. This is all rotted out, I think if I'm careful I could fab up a patch - has anyone ever done this before? Just how critical is this to the integrity of the car? I'd hate for the car to be a loss given all the work that's already be done. Here's a pic of the damage - http://camarotech1.com/floorrot.jpg Tomorrow I'll get some cutting wheels - after I cut out the rest of my patch area, I'll have a better idea of what the damage is. I'll repost tomorrow, maybe with a new pic. This car is not and never will be original, so that isn't a concern.

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Matt
http://camarotech1.com
Camaro Tech 1st Generation

wrench turner
Sep 10th, 00, 04:35 PM
It can be done but dont rush the job. It takes alot of time to fabricate patch panels.The subframe mounting point that is rotted it would be easier to cut it out of a loaner car and weld it into yours .If done right it would be as strong as original if not better.Alot of old car builders told me they dont buy new they fix what they got. When I started my camaro I got a piece of sheet metal 4ft by 4ft from body shop supply and I patched and made alot of things.A hammer and dolly works good once you tack the metal in to mold it into shape.A torch also works good to heat the metal so you can mold it better.If your concerned with time buy any preformed panels you can and make up any differences with patch metal. With patience it can be done.

Austin
Sep 10th, 00, 05:38 PM
I had to fab part of that piece on my car. It wasn't too bad to do. If you know someone with a metal brake that would help alot. I do have a couple of pictures after welding the patches in the front subframe mounts. I don't have a web page so if you would like to see them I can scan and try to e-mail 'em to ya. Let me know.
Austin

houndog72
Sep 11th, 00, 12:23 PM
I cut out the rest of my floor repair area today - I copied a new pic over the old one, again it's http://camarotech1.com/floorrot.jpg .
I cut some pieces out of the lower sheet of metal (I guess you'd call it the lower firewall) - the metal seems pretty sturdy so I don't think I need to touch the actual subframe mounting point. The tricky part will be right in front of that rail that runs along the edge of the floor on the left (the inner rocker panel?). The front is a little rotted so I'll make a new piece up there. Seems like this rail is open, so it gets a lot of dirt and mud inside.
One question - the left edge of the toe panel bends downward, so how are you supposed to weld it against the side of the car? If anyone has any more tips, they are greatly appreciated...

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Matt
http://camarotech1.com
Camaro Tech 1st Generation

[This message has been edited by houndog72 (edited 09-11-2000).]

ragtopman
Sep 12th, 00, 05:00 AM
School is in session now. I can hear Sister Mary Elephant saying it now..."Class,CLAss,CLASS'....

But anyway, piece of cake. Before you take that sub frame mounting bracket out, where the bracket is welded to the cowl area and on the bottom, you need to drill you several 1/8 in holes in the side of the flange and one on the bottom. These will act as a way to put it back in the same spot cause if you dont, your cars not going to sit right. Find all the spot welds that hold it on the cowl area, and where its welded on the rocker. Only drill out 1 side of the metal, preferably the bracket side, that way, you can plug weld it all back up. The sub frame mounting bracket should pretty much fall out now. Cut out all the bad sheet metal, fix your mounting bracket(dont forget to protect all your new metal)prepare all the new weld areas for welding. Now remember the 1/8 holes that you made??? Those holes need to line back up, and when they do, weld it all back up and you should be good to go.......

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67 Camaro SS Conv.
70 Challenger R/T Conv.

Austin
Sep 12th, 00, 07:07 PM
houndog72, I sent the pics. Let me konw if you got 'em ok.
Austin

houndog72
Sep 13th, 00, 06:25 AM
I got 'em Austin. Thank you very much. They look great by the way - you obviously do very good work. You're right, mine is a bit worse. I think I'll check around to see how much that piece would run from a yard. If I do that, what do you think of this order?
1) Weld in toe panel
2) Weld in new subframe mounting piece from below
3) Final weld is from the top, welding the toe panel to the right hand side of the sub mount piece.
That way I could go from underneath to weld that left lip on the toe panel before I block that access with the new piece. I'm hoping I can get away with this with just the fender removed (not removing the subframe). Problem is it looks like the bozo that installed the fender soldered it to the header panel. That's going to wreck my paint, huh?

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Matt
http://camarotech1.com
Camaro Tech 1st Generation

Austin
Sep 13th, 00, 03:25 PM
I installed the toe board in first, then the floor board. I did it this way because I now how the toe and floor boards must fit. I then basically used the toe board as a referance to fix the mount. Like I said though I had more of the original metal to work with. I would still remove the subframe though, I wouldn't want that weight hanging there, plus it would give you alot more room to do a stong repair.
The outside portion of the toe board can easily be "spot" or "plug" welded from the outside of the car with the fenders removed. Once the fenders are removed you can see the spot welds. Drill them out from the outside drill all the way through (both pieces) the second layer of metal you drill through is the old toe board which be discarded anyway.
One step at a time.
Austin

houndog72
Sep 13th, 00, 04:34 PM
Ok, I'm back with you now. I pulled the fender today and the difference is day and night. I can see what needs to be done now. It would be a joke to try patching this up. I ordered a new mounting bracket from Jimmy's Bow Tie Supply in Georgia - $75. Some patchwork on the outer cowl will make this thing like new - as long as I don't see any trouble in the rocker. Seems like it has a cap on front that gets busted up, then you get a bunch of mud inside... Hope I can clean it out and it'll be ok. But - yeah, I can weld the left edge of the toe panel from outside. It was so easy getting the fender off that maybe I'll just pull the whole front clip anyway - there's not much to it. Plus the rear subframe mounts are a little chewed up (I think it's pretty common to get salt trapped in the biscuit with a northern car), so now I could patch those with the little repair pieces I see in my catalogs. Just like in '68! I just need to find some room around the house to store all these body parts... Thanks everyone! I'll probably have more questions soon, esp. regarding paint - but like Austin said - 1 step at a time.

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Matt
http://camarotech1.com
Camaro Tech 1st Generation