Just wondering if anyone runs head studs on there small block. I am considering the idea but wondered if anyone has problems removing the heads with them on there. My heater box and wiper motor are gone and the firewall is smoothed so will there be any obstruction to getting them off if there is ever a need? The block is an early 70's block and has head the head bolts removed countless times since I have owned it and I have already had to helicoil one hole during the last rebuild.

Clearance is the only reason I don't run studs. You will also run into clearance with the brake master cylinder/booster.

The big issue with studs is coolant leaking past them and into your oil system. I would avoid head studs personally -- you'll split the deck off a GM block before good bolts fail anyway IMO

Buy SRP bolts plenty strong, If your all out racing with 500 shots of NOS then use studs, I have freinds pushing 1200 hp with ARP bolts and never seen any problems...crash

I have also seen clearance problems between the stud itself and the header flange on some applications. We were going to use them on a Elcamino until this arose.

I run studs but I pull the motor if I need to work on it. I can't think of a reason to pull just the heads otherwise. But if I wanted to pull just the heads, the studs all have socket heads in them, and can be removed just like a bolt.

Larger Dave

I too run studs. If you have a clean firewall you will have no issues pulling the heads.

As Eric said you need to seal the studs properly or they will leak.

I have had both good and bad experiences with them. When I used the ARP sealer, I had many leaky studs and had to pull them all one at a time and went back to bolts (I know of a few others that had the same issue with that ARP sealer). I swore off studs forever. Well with my blown engine it was suggested to use head studs, so I gave it another shot, this time I went with Permatex thread sealer and I couldn't be happier, never leaked a drop.

I won't suggest you run them or not, you'll have to make that call on your own. Yes, they can work fine if that's the question.

Use studs and GM sealer on the threads. No problems. You may find the studs "weep" during the first heat-cool cycle, then all is fine.

Use bolts if removing heads in-car is a big deal, but not much more effort to pull the motor for a better job on a stand.

Studs will clamp better, and your threads in the deck will not be stressed anywhere near as much and last in better condition.

ARP will tell you all this.

I wouldn't on anything with fenders. They do keep the heads on better and if the heads are off and on very often you won't get real good at Heli-coiling.

I have them on my 400SB in a 80 Camaro and I have pulled head off with engine in car before easily. My engine builder suggested using because they do offer better clamping force than the bolt by far. I had couple leak at first but that was entirely my fault for not sealing them.
It also prevents damaging threads in blocks from removal/re-assembly.

Some studs come with allen head sockets in them for removal before pulling the head. I just cut slots in the ends of mine and remove them with a large flat screw driver.

I think that having a good square deck and flat heads does a lot more to prevent head gasket failure than studs. I run inexpensive Victor Reinz head gaskets and have gone beyond 500 HP with my NA motor and never had one issue with head gaskets or bolts.

If you are pulling threads with bolts, the threads in the block will be the weak point with a stud too (the damage is already done).

I think studs are needed if you are running a radical combo with an aftermarket block. Lots of boost pressure or lots of N2O, and I would definately use studs -- but your garden variety NA small block doesn't need them.

"..and have gone beyond 500 HP with my NA motor.."

See, I told ya! (hehe. Hey Eric!)

See, I told ya! (hehe. Hey Eric!)

:beers: