When I took the front clip off of my car several months ago, I realized that at some point it had been in an accident, and the frame appears to be a little tweaked. The frame has a very slight bend right behind the passenger side tire (typical for a front end hit). The radiator mount lines up perfectly, as do the body bushings both under the firewall and under the seats. What caused me to notice the bend was that the front wheel was leaning in at the top, and even with no shims, it still does, and it is quite noticeable.

With that said, I went ahead and stripped the frame, painted it and it is now back on the car. I am planning to replace the rest of the front end parts this weekend. I have all new bushings, tie rods, idler arm etc.. Now here is my question, and please go easy if what I say sounds stupid, it is just a question.

My friend has a hydralic tool that will allow me to place it between the frame rails and apply pressure in order to push the frame back from where it came (we are talking about an inch, or less) If this were able to be done without disturbing the other side (and he assures me it can be) would anyone here consider doing it? If it were to be done, where would be the best place to apply the force so that I might be able to return the front tire back to a somewhat "straight" up and down position. I know it can be adjusted with shims from that position, but from where it is now, even an off-set shaft would likely not be enough to let me get a good alignment on it.

I have resigned myself to the fact that a new subframe may be in order, so I figure I have little to lose trying this. If it turns out that no one here would ever try such a manuever, I will likely take it to a frame shop. Problem with that is getting it there, and affording it. The phone quotes were quite high.

Feedback is welcome, and as long as you don't call me an idiot, I am prepared to listen to whatever anyone has to say. Thanks you guys. :)

Here are a few pics of it before (not very good pics) and a few of it how it looks today.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/craigbrackney@sbcglobal.net/album?.dir=56c4

Given where that buckle is, and the fact that you're having trouble with the negative camber, it sounds like it took a hit on that wheel hard enough to roll/twist the frame as well as bend it. Have you measured between the upper A-arm mounts? I'll have to dig that dimension out or someone else will post it. Does it sit high on that side?

I'm not sure pushing with a Porta-Power, using the other frame rail as your anchor point is going to push that back out. If it turns out that the A-Arm mount is tweaked too, youd be better off to tie the rest of the car down and try to pull it out the way it came in.

Of course there's no guarantee you'll find a straight, 30-plus year old replacement either.

Given where that buckle is, and the fact that you're having trouble with the negative camber, it sounds like it took a hit on that wheel hard enough to roll/twist the frame as well as bend it. Have you measured between the upper A-arm mounts? I'll have to dig that dimension out or someone else will post it. Does it sit high on that side?

I'm not sure pushing with a Porta-Power, using the other frame rail as your anchor point is going to push that back out. If it turns out that the A-Arm mount is tweaked too, youd be better off to tie the rest of the car down and try to pull it out the way it came in.

Of course there's no guarantee you'll find a straight, 30-plus year old replacement either.

That measurement (between the A-arms) may be the missing link for me.

Do you think that I'd be better off rolling it onto a trailer and taking it to the shop? If I were to push it out (or try to) and it was apparent that it was not working, there would not be more damage would there? I would stop as soon as I saw it wasn't working. Man I do not like this frame business.

Have you already checked all the dimensions here?

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61643&highlight=subframe+dimension

It doesn't have the mount to mount dimension, and I have my motor in so it would be tough to check. Maybe someone else will be able to get it for you.

And if it was bolted tight on both sides, you shouldn't do any further damage, unless you just dimple/cave in the frame boxing where you push.

I just doubt a portable tool is going to be able to do much of anything. Frame machines are beasts for a reason.

But... I don't have my motor in!
30 1/2" from the inboard edge of one a-arm mount to the other.
I also set a level vertical, centered in the hole in the crossmember, and verified 15 1/4" from the hole to both the left and right a-arm mount.

Hope this helps you figure out whats bent how much.

As Eric said, I'm doubtful you can push "between" the framerails and move one side without moving the other as well.

But... I don't have my motor in!
30 1/2" from the inboard edge of one a-arm mount to the other.
ell.

Mine is 30 inches between A-arm mounts. All other measuremnts are exactly as they should be. I couldn't stand it, so I got dressed and went out to the garage and measured it.

I got dressed and went out to the garage and measured it.

Good, because being naked in the garage is not good...

That 1/2" would be enough to cause what you describe. If your frame is okay in the vertical, and you are (or know) a good welder, I'd think about just moving that upper A-arm mount over to compensate.

Good, because being naked in the garage is not good...

That 1/2" would be enough to cause what you describe. If your frame is okay in the vertical, and you are (or know) a good welder, I'd think about just moving that upper A-arm mount over to compensate.

Without going back out there, how hard of a job would it be to move the mount?

I think if you go on David's website, www.pozziracing.com , he describes moving the mount aft to do the Guldstrand mod. It would be the same level of effort, grinding/cutting the factory welds (I'd assume several boxes of wheels there) and moving it over, clamp and reweld. Have to be good, solid welds, for sure.

Before you go too much further, get a photo from the front of the rail looking back on that side. You may have to put a white sheet or something over the firewall so the mount shows up in that sea of new, shiny black paint.

I'd like to see if the mount is visibly tweaked compared to a frame that hasn't been hit.

Brackneyc, you might consider calling Wes Body Shop in Davenport to get another quote on repairing your frame, ask if Jim is still working there.
They have always took good care of me. If you decide to buy another frame I might know of one in the QC area.

Brackneyc, you might consider calling Wes Body Shop in Davenport to get another quote on repairing your frame, ask if Jim is still working there.
They have always took good care of me. If you decide to buy another frame I might know of one in the QC area.

I'll call him tomorrow. Thank you. I also may be interested in the frame as well if the price is in the right range for me.

did you verify the center to each side measurement? I got 15 1/4".
That will verify that the bend is all on one side. If both sides are equal, you may get away with putting a jack between and pushing, but is the bad side is the only short side...

Just to hit again how I measured this, I set a carpenters level verticle with one edge centered on the center hole in the crossmember (yes, verify the sub is actually level first!) and then measured from each a-arm mount to that face of the level.

did you verify the center to each side measurement? I got 15 1/4".
That will verify that the bend is all on one side. If both sides are equal, you may get away with putting a jack between and pushing, but is the bad side is the only short side...

Just to hit again how I measured this, I set a carpenters level verticle with one edge centered on the center hole in the crossmember (yes, verify the sub is actually level first!) and then measured from each a-arm mount to that face of the level.

I did measure that part that night as well. It was off slightly on that side, but not by a half inch. Is it possible that these frames varied slightly as they were made? I am going to measure again today, using your method. I just took a steel rod I had and put it throught the hole until it hit the floor, and measured between the mounts. Not very scientific, but it was in the middle of the night. :)

Just chiming in.. I got 30 1/2 on both my subs.

Just chiming in.. I got 30 1/2 on both my subs.

Thank you. I "will" have 30 1/2...soon. :)

:)

I just got off the phone with the frame guy. He said he was going to come over Saturday to look at it. I appreciate this. He did say however that the minimum charge would be 200.00, and likely would end up being closer to 400.00 Now, I do not claim to be the frame guy here, but the thing needs to be moved a 1/2 inch or less, accoridng to the measurements I have taken as they compare to some of the TC members frames. I already have about 300.00 into this frame (blasting, fixing all mounts and painting). Is 200.00 a good price to start with, with the potential of 400.00 in the end? I know this is not a poor mans hobby, but 200-400 to pull the frame a 1/2 inch seems high to me. Am I off base here, or should I take this to be a good price.

Edit: The other frame shop just called back and quoted me 600.00. :(

Thanks

That sounds awful high to me. I've seen good used frames selling for $2-300.