I am trying to get a order together to Summit.I am running a SB in a 69 about 450HP ,AT,Drag radials.Do i need connectors and if so weld on or bolt on?I also have Cal-Tracs will the connectors still fit?

i would say yes i have them and i can feel them working..with that much power you will really need them..if it was me i would say bolt on i have the comp engineering one... if you weld them on and then need to pull the subframe it will be alot harder but for strength weld ons are stronger and i am not sure about the cal tracs deal since i dont have them

They won't hurt you. Ive got some CE bolt ons that ill be putting on eventully. Depends on how many 1/4 miles you run too and if youll ever consider running slicks. Bolt ons should hold that power without a problem. Cant tell you anything about the cal tracs though.. except that I was considering them too.. but I had never thought about fitment issues.... so thats a pretty good question...

Will cal-tracs fit with CE bolt on subframe connectors.???

I just added a pair of bolt-ons to my 69Z to avoide any twisting I might get from my new crate engine. If you don't add them there will be a day when one or both of your doors won't close. These old classic's weren't made for alll the power that todays engines are putting out.

definately need them. your camaro's body will thank you.
the best connectors are weld in, but the bolt ins definately will do the trick, especially if its not a regular at the strip.
i'm using CE bolt ins and cal tracs, they work awesome togethor.

The weld ons will give you the best strength but if its a car you don't want to permanently keep in this configuration I would at least do the bolt-on. If this is for bracket racing I would definitely go with the weld-on as the whole point is to get your chassis more rigid so the suspension does the work making it tunable. This way you get a most consistency out of your money. If its just to play around with bolt ons will help keep the car strait but they shouldn't be as effective as a weld-on. I don't know what company makes the connectors your looking at but I would contact the manufacturer and get the answer strait from them. I haven't used the cal-tracs but if the manufacturer of the sub frames doesn't help you might try cal-trac and see if they know of any issues.

My car told me I needed them b/c it is cracking right at the rear window "V's" b/c of engine/body torque!!

Check there on both sides, especially the drivers side.

So I bought a set of Jegs bolt-on and can't be more pleased with the way they installed..

pdq67

Use bolt in and then weld them. Works great!

Yes, you need them. As pdq was describing, my 67 had started cracking slightly in this area too, and that is with a stock 350 and an auto. :eek: The way your car handles and feels after you put them on is night and day. I put the competition engineering weld on subframes in my car and I never thought a first gen could go around corners this good. I am used to my 99 SS as far as good handling goes. I think when I have have the front end rebuilt, put a better sway bar under it and go with a fast ratio box, it will be right there with my 99, if not surpassing it.

I would suggest weld in because if you ever want to take them off ,all you need to do is grind the weld away and there off without any nasty holes.

I was looking into this too, and saw these on ebay...I have seen these before on there so the guy must make them and sell them...what do you think about these and will they do what they are suppose to do?

4605734502

Mine has bolt-in's bolted and welded, like that when I bought the car.

One more vote for a good set of frame ties. Sooner or later, that kinda power will twist the car up.....sooner than later if its ever in a situation where its often hooking real hard(like at the track). Heck....even if your 75 horsepower off your power estimate for your motor....itll still beat it up in time. With your suspension setup and tires....it definitely sounds like your in a position for hard launching, and the twisting will follow. Eliminating chassis flex will not only help prevent the car from twisting up, but at the same time, you will have an easier time getting a stiffer chassis to hook well.

I have weld in subframe connectors in my 67, also an 8 point cage to help keep the car stiff, this works. The cage was built to be as non invasive as possiable. The only non removable parts are the hoop, mounting pads and the bars that go from the top of the hoop to the trunk rear suspention pickup points.

Weld in connectors work a lot better that the bolt in versions, weld in connectors not only connect to the sub frames but weld to the car unibody, so you actully cut through the car floor behind the front seats and weld the connecter to the uinbody there. That also means you have to replace the body bushings with solid units so the welds don't flex. Got all my stuff through Chris Alston Chassis Works. My car is now what you might call solid and not as uncomforable as you might think.

Of coarse to return it to stock would take a little more effot than just unbolting some steel, but after driving it with out mas flex why would you want to:)

I bought the DSE weld in (have yet to put them in) because they are stronger and nearly invisible. I plan to weld them in but bolt them to the subframe so it can still be removed (instructions how to do this come with them and I saw this at they're website)