Ok 383 guys I ve got 383 750 holley compcams 480 lift at 110 35 degrees timing 10.5 compression headers 2800 stall auto matic flat top pistons.My problem is when you step on it it dies then picks up.Had to change the power valve to 4.5 blew the 6.5 to many poping.I brought the holley carb kit and I change the squirters from 28 to 32 everything I do it get better but should I go up on the squirter to 36 and what about the cam gears I was told i had to play with the different sizes to get the best result?What should I do next still falls but getting better what did you have to do.what color can you suggets cam gear to get close as well as squirters?

First off, let's try breaking up your questions, so that we can make some sense of what it is you are trying to accomplish.

I gather from your writing that your initial problem was an off-idle bog, or hesitation. Correct?

If so, in my opinion, you have changed too many things at once to accurately diagnose what the actual problem was. Further, you may have CAUSED other issues because you attempted to change too many things at once.

First off, are you using an O2 sensor (wide band preferrably) to tune the car? If not, why in the world are you changing so many things on the carburetor?

My personal recommendations-put everything back to STOCK! That means return the carburetor back to the FACTORY jetting, power valve, squirter, and reverse any other "engineering" you have performed. That carb right out of the box should have run perfectly on your engine-UNLESS some other knucklehead already tried to "re-engineer" it before you go it.

Have you read many (any?) books on Holley carburetor tuning? If not, start there. Once you understand how they work, you will be able to PROPERLY tune them. Based on your post, and the changes you indicate you have made, you really don't know what your objective or goal is.

Again, return the carb to stock settings and see how it works. If it does not work well from there, tell us what is happening and we can assist you in correcting from there, one step at a time.

For all we know, your carb may have been fine to begin with and your problem could be with engine timing, or a vacuum leak.

Sounds like you are going in the right direction, You are running an AT so I think you will have to be easy on the fuel dump . I have a 3310-1 and notice that throttle response is better from 31 to 35 short squirter but it is a lot of fuel. I am using the white cam in #2 hole. You need to make sure you do have the accel pump linkage set correctly. I suppose you are running a Vacumn secondary? Make sure your timing is correct as well as valve lash, no intakes too tight. Put a pv blow out kit in that carb to keep this from popping the pv again. Make sure your timing is correct.

OK Go 69 tried carb out the box flooded strong gas smell ran rich.Im going in the right direction because the power valve had blew because of timing problems that I straigthed out. From 6.5 to 4.5 because of the amout of vacuum I was producing .So that help alot.Reset slots in bottom of carb per holley helps and idail screws. Like I said every thing I do gets it running better but some said I need bigger squirtters And that you have to change the cam gear in order to get the proper shot of gas to stop the bog.Was ask for a starting point for this so no way I m going back to raw gas when it seems I m so close.I know it a lot of questions but I know some had to change there out of the box carb [Tune it to get it to there liking}Just trying to get a starting point or close no offence to any one I am programable.I know that I am close.Did you have to change the acellerator pump diaframe from 30 to 50 or leave it alone.I will try to up the squritters and swicth the cams next.zdid17 sound like you know what I asking as far as whats going on it is vav sec with a new pv blow out kit and the pump linkage is working correctly,got my timming at 35 degrees Im going to reset the valves next there not to tight but I only have 100 miles on the new motor.Did I miss anything else?