A couple of years ago my '95 Camaro would not start. I had power everywhere(headlights, dash, etc.)when the key was on. When I tried to start nothing happened and the security icon on the dash illuminated. After being towed to the local Chevy garage I was told the ignition switch had failed. After replacing the ignition switch and key(the one with the little chip in it)everything was fine. Now I am experiencing the same thing all over again. The car is only driven on nice days and stored in the winter. With relatively little time on the car since the new ignition switch was installed it seems that it has failed again. A local mechanic told me that the key might be bad. Is the small chip in the key a resistor or what? Can it be checked somehow? Is there some way of eliminating the circuit that contacts the chip in the key or is my best bet to just have a new ignition switch installed again? Is there any way to start the car with this condition or do I have to be towed to the Chevy garage again? Last time this happened we tried pushing the car(manual trans of course) and the engine wouldn't fire. The mechanic at the Chevy dealer said there is some sort of anti-theft protection and when the ignition switch failed the car thought it was being stolen or something and wouldn't allow the engine to run.

Searching for answers,
Tim Strobl

Welcome to the Club! Hope you enjoy your membership here. Yes, the chip in the key is a resistor. One can measure the resistance with a DMM(digital multimeter). The key chip is the other half of the circuit in the VATS module.

More than likely, the socket for the reading the chip has worn itself out or, needs a good cleaning, along with the key. The "leaves" of the socket are not not the strongest items, there are very thin and do lose their elasticity, thereby becoming "sprung."

To check VATS, attempt to start the carafter it has sat for over an hour. If no starter action, but everything elsr works, turn the key off and remove same and wait for a min of 3 1/2 minutes. Attempt to start with the same key and car should start.

There are VATS bypass kits on some members here have made a permanent fix with a few Radio Shack parts. Do a search and those diagrams will show up.

Thanks for your response. I have tried cleaning the ignition switch and the key with contact cleaner with no luck. I'll search for a bypass kit.

Thanks again,
Tim

If you are industrious, you could hook up a DMM to the unplugged steering column harness and connect the DMM to the two thin gauge wires in the plug (white in color?) on the column harness. They are the two wires on the very end of the plug, and measure the resistance and continuity of the key and socket every time its inserted and removed.

This would show you how reliable the interface is.

You also could measure the key resistor and go to an electronics part store or TV shop and have the tech fix you up with a resistor of the ohmic value needed. Solder this resistor to the body harness opposite of the two wires from the column and pull out from the column connector one of the two wires.

Now you have the VATS disabled/satisfied all the time.

I have the same problem with my '95 Z-28. It won't start and the "Security" light just flashes. I went to the dealer and bought another key which cost me $40.00. I have a 3 volume Camaro Master Mechanics Repair Manuel and it narrows the problem down to 4 things: 1. Key 2. Ignition Switch 3. Ignition Module 4. Relay (between ignition switch and ignition mudule. I did have the feeling that it wasn't the key. And I also have a feeling that it isn't the relay because when I turn the key, I can hear the relay click. So, it is either the ignition switch or the ignition module. If you have repaired your Camaro since you posted your thread, I would really like to hear from you and tell me what the problem wound up being.

I have the same problem with my '95 Z-28. It won't start and the "Security" light just flashes. I did have the feeling that it wasn't the key.
Attempt to start the car. If no starter engagement, turn off and remove key. Wait 3 minutes min and restart with the same key.

If it starts, then VATS is doing its job. Like I suggested to Tim, check the key socket at the steering column connector. You should read the ohmic value of the key with it in the switch.