I'm guessing sandblasting is exspensive? I just bought a subframe for my 68 and I want to take all the surface rust of it and then primer it and paint it. Are there any other ways of sanding these parts down to bare metal??? Also, What should I use for primer and paint? The car will be a driver.

Thanks

I had my sub frame sandblasted and painted with POR15 for $125, I supplied the POR15. Thats pretty cheap IMO.

69er

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69 Camaro 454
71 Nova 454

If your not living on the edge then your taking up too much space

Blasting is the only way to go. It is worth the 100 to 150 bucks.

If you have a compressor, I'd grab a sandblaster from Northern. They run about $60 for a cheap one which will work for your application, and you will be glad you bought it when you use it a second time.

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57 Plymouth Savoy in my family since new, just cosmetically restored, 93 S-10 waiting on the 50 Dodge truck to be built then one s_10 for sale, Angie's mechanic and designated Vette cusser.

57 does Northern have a website?

Thanks

I bought a 50 lb. sandblaster from Sears for $40. Haven't used it yet but am told it'll do my frame parts.



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Joe
WCA Member
HwyStar@Rochester.rr.com
'69 wallet crusher
'97 Blazer - Bad wheel hop!

I'm in the prosses of sand blasting mine. I bought a 10 gallon sandblaster form one of the cheap-o tool guys at a swapmeet ($75)and 6 bags of sand @ $6 bucks for 100 lb bag. The only problem I've run into is that you have to have a big enuff compressor to keep up with the blasting. I'm using a gas powered wheel barrow style. It uses a ton of air and you have to keep at least 70 lbs of pressure. If I wasn't going to blast everything else like control arms ect. I would have sent it out. It's worth 1-200 bucks to not have to clean up the mess or be sweaty and dirty.

Don't forget to wear a resperator because you can get silica poisoning from the dust

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69 RS/SS 427 4.11's
2000 Z28 Navy Metallic LS1 6 Spd T-Tops

Just a bit of advice on sandblasting. If you do any blasting on the firewall or dash area make sure you plug all holes that you dont want sand in. I am still getting sand blowing out every time I turn on my blower motor. I will know better next time. Better yet I will pay someone else to do it.
Erik

[This message has been edited by 68RS/SS396 (edited 04-23-2001).]

Another side note. If you ARE blasting teh firewall, not only do you need to tape up all holes (if the car is not apart) but also tape over teh trim tag. The blasting will make it fuzzy.

Here in Dallas you can get your subframe powder coated for $250, and that includes the charge for sandblasting and cooking all of the grease and oil off.

I don't know if Northern has a website, but to let you in on a secret, my sandblaster came with Craftsman instrucions. Go to Sears and get the biggest one with a plastic hopper, and you will have the same one as me. I use a 30 gallon 5.5 horse single stage compressor, but I have to stop every ten to fifteen minutes to let it catch up and so I can wash the sand out of my mouth (i.e. drink some beer). I am also cheap, so I shovel some sand off a construcion site and dry it and sift it myself. I also use a tarp or sheet under the stuff I am blasting and recycle the sand. The less I have to sift out rocks the better.

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57 Plymouth Savoy in my family since new, just cosmetically restored, 93 S-10 waiting on the 50 Dodge truck to be built then one s_10 for sale, Angie's mechanic and designated Vette cusser.

Thanks for the advice guys.

I think I might hire a local shop to do the subframe - control arms - and rear end. I can do it but it would have to be in my driveway so I think the mess it would make wouldn't be worth the savings.