I have an 88 RS with the 2.8, a couple days ago I went to the store and when I came out the car wouldn't start. After sitting for about 5 hours it started right up. Yesterday it did the same thing but this time it wont start. It will turn over fine but no fire. I checked some wiring tonight and found that the pink wire going to the fuel pump is showing 4 volts the other two wires have no voltage. I traced the wires to the fuse block and the fuse for the F/P has power. I checked the fuel pump relay under the hood on the drivers side, I think there was 5 wires, only one of them had power(the biggest one on the end). Is it possible the fuel cut off sensor is not letting the relay close or is it something else.Thanks! Adam

It sounds to me like you have a loose connection somewhere. Check your wiring around the distributor, make sure everything is hooked up. I don't think it is the fuel pump since it ran okay when you went to the store. Sometimes when you have a bad wire and it heats up, it will loose it's ability to transfer current. That would explain why the car started after it sat for awhile.

Thanks Dave!! I went and bought one of the mechanics manuals and in one of the wiring diagrams it showed an fuel cut off switch(attached to the oil pressure/sending unit). It looked like when the oil/fuel cutoff switch closed it sent a signal to the relay and then the relay should close and starte the fuel pump. I can't get to the wires for the oil/fuel cutoff sensor to see if they have power or not. I think one of the wires going to the fuel pump is supposed to prime the pump and get the pressue up to an acceptable level so that the car can start. I think the priming wire is the one showing 4 volts which really baffles me. If the fuel cut off went out for some reason would that make the car not start or would it start and just not stay running?? I'm getting a little afraid that the ECM might have went out, but that doesn't explain why it started acting up after it was warmed up. I ordered a new relay and fuel cut off sensor just to see if that might be the issue. While I was at the auto store I bought a new distrubutor, coil ,fuel filter, IAC, and plugs and wires. I guess I'll start putting everything on and see if that fixes it. If you have any input please let me know! Thanks again Dave! Adam

I put new plugs, wires, fuel pump relay, fuel cut off switch on it today and still nothing. I checked the wires going to the fuel pump and one of them (tan and white) has a full 12 volts when I first turn the key then goes to zero after about two seconds, but the other (kinda pinkish) only goes up to 4 volts when I turn the key, and stays there until I shut off the key. The pump makes no noise at anytime. Is it possible that the pink wire is the wire that runs the pump and the tan one only sends a signal to tell the pump when to start? Could this be the ECM or would it be the fuel pump..... both are going to suck I think. Does anyone have any secrets on how to lower the fuel tank without taking out the axle? The manual says to take off the axle assembly but that doesn't sound like much fun. Is there a better way? If anyone knows I would greatly appreciate the help. Thanks -Adam

Adam, I can tell you that you can pretty much eliminate the IAC, that only raises the idle of your engine when you put a load on it ie, A/c or when the engine is cold. Plugs, wires, coil and fuel filter I don't think is your problem either but, it's good to change them out. The fuel pump should be making a noise when you turn the key to on. Before you jump the gun and drop your tank, there is a connection just right above the fuel tank that frequently rattles loose. Crawl under the car and check the connector. This also controls the fuel gauge. Is your fuel gauge working? There might be a problem with those wires. Also......Did your check engine light come on before the engine quit? You should run a systems check to see if you have any trouble codes stored in your ECM. There is a way to do it without an analyzer by using a jumper wire. Just make sure you know how to do it because you can short out your ECM and cause another problem. It explains how to do it in you manual in the tune- up section..... This will confirm that your ECM is working and you can eliminate that as a problem. Let me know if this helps.