Our 69 Camaro was stolen, and in the shop for repairs.
Managed to get a 2nd had steering column housing local.
The repair shop pulled the damaged steering wheel and housing off the steering shaft to fit the 'new' housing with the new ignition switch fitted.
Non tilt.
1/my orginal did not have a spring that fits over the main steering column...somewhere. The 'new'column had a spring inside. Should this go in and if so where?
Description of spring: about an inch high, ID slips over the steering column.
2/ The new ignition switch doesnt fit tight to the column, sort of sticks out of the column by a couple mm and a little floppy ...as if there should be a spring or something that holds it back flush inside the column, is missing?
Anyone got a diagram of expanded order of components for reassembly
Cheers.

this is a tilt column, but the spring goes behind the horn contact just the same.

http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b400/run269/HPIM0066.jpg

Here is a link to a blowup picture of a standard A-car/F-car steering column.

http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/01/StdColumnACarBlowUp.doc

Here is a link to some more pictures of the column.
http://jimshea.corvettefaq.com/wp-content/uploads/2006/01/StdColumnACarDisassemblyPage1.doc

Some of the ignition lock cylinders do not fit very tight to the column housing. The only thing that I can recommend would be to try another lock cylinder.

JIML82

Champion guys...just what the doctor ordered.

Will print off and get up to the workshop in the morning.
This is the 1st time in 20 yrs anyone has gone anything on the car, other than myself and a good m8 of 30 yrs.
Other than an uphoslter putting the new hood lining in couple yrs ago.
Appreciated.

Got the car back, but I dont think the insurance repairers quite know what they are doing...
The floor shift is binding and the steering also
Floor shift...I disconnected the link to the column under the car...works fine, the moving part on the column behind the sterrin wheel is tight to turn.
Steering... will not self center very well
Then as the wheel is turned about 1/3 to 1/2 a turn either way there is no self centering at all...

It as if something is binding in the column. As forum search mentions alighnment of rag with steering box...I dont think it is this
The main steering shaft was not removed, just the old broken column lifted off and the new (2nd hand) slipped on after having new ignition switch fitted....Also has new steering wheel etc fitted.
Any suggestions where or what to look for please.

While Im posting this my wife found a note re installing chassis mounts and a column that was tight...they suggested to loosen then retighten the bolts holding the steering column plate to the fire wall...so I will try this and report back.

The steering problem is fixed...I loosened off the firewall plate bolts, and also the 2 main bolts that hold the column bracket under the dash to the main supports. Turned the wheel back and forth and retightened ...sweet

The tightness in the floor shift due to something in the column is still there...in the mean time I have removed the link under the car, from the shifter to the column.
So any ideas on this would be appreciated
Cheers
Steps.

Make sure the backdrive linkage from the trans reverse lever to the lever at the bottom of the column works freely, including the pivoting bellcrank on the subframe, and make sure the lever at the bottom of the column moves up and down freely when disconnected from the linkage. The lever at the bottom of the column rotates a tube inside the steering column that turns the "bowl" behind the steering wheel and allows the ignition cylinder to be turned to the "Lock" position (in "Park" on an automatic or "reverse" on a 4-speed) so the key can be removed.

Note that if your linkage is disconnected and if the "bowl" behind the steering wheel is turned fully counter-clockwise (so you can get the key out), your backup lights will be on all the time; the backup light switch is on top of the column, just rearward of the toe plate, and is operated by the tube inside the column that rotates the "bowl".
:beers:

Yep all the linkages under the car are sweet.
When it is connected to the link that comes out of the bottom of the column it goes tight (sort of 'drags') the problem is in the column.
I still have the old column that was smashed behind the steering wheel. looking at that inside (no steering shaft) I dont realy see anything that could cause a misalignment to cause drag...At this piont I assume it maybe something not fitted right ,,,ignition, horn something there???

Althu I mentioned above, loosening the main column bolts fixed the drag on the sterring wheel... turning the wheel from center about an inch is ok, then there is a slight 'bump' 'drag' piont for about 1 1/2 inches enough to only just have to pull the wheel back...bloody anoying and potentually dangerous.

Sry about the late reply Ma in Law's 60th..We put an old fashioned Robin Hood spit on for her and big suprise party

I now have the Camaro at home...basically Dont take a computer to a washing machine repair.
Post here lol
I have removed the column

1/The bottom bushing has been knocked out into the inside of the column...how do i get it out, preferably without damaging it?....Fixed, a long wooden dowel and gently taped back into place from the top

2/When the 4 bolts holding the ignintion switch housing are tightened down, the assembly to the floor change linkages drags (goes tight). There is a 'plastic' bush/spacer inbetween the 2 that seems to be where it binds. If backed off a little it is ok.
It may also be binding (marks) in the housing where the bolts screw in and the back of the ignition switch housing.

http://www.kakariki.net/camaro/colassem.jpg
Shows section refered to.
I also notice (cant see in pic) there is a slot in the housing where the plastic spacer goes...there are no slots to fit into these on the spacer?? Also it appears that it may have been glued?? so the spacer doesnt spin free??

3/Re packing bearings...Std bearing grease?

Bump..
Well sorted much of the above....BUT
Steering wheel doesnt drop fully onto the splins without binding the outer column housings maybe that was the orginal problem with the steering dragging?
It appears the main steering shaft is Too short.
The insurance repairer did say he did not use a puller to remove the steering wheel...so I assume he wacked the shaft to break the wheel from the spline!! And Colapsed the shaft!!!
Question time again...
What is the length of a 69 Camaro steering shaft?
Can it be re set?

i just measured a spare shaft i have. it measures 35" exactly (about 899 mm). it is a power steering shaft, i believe non-power shafts are longer.

i see you are in NZ but if you can't find a usable one locally PM me and you can have this one. i have a dismantled straight column, figure out what you need to bring yours back to perfection and if you need any more parts let me know.

Thanks
Mine is a power steer 33 1/16
Also they have not replaced the ring clips because they are all in the wrong place when short.

I dont know what is inside the shaft
I have assumed it could be totaled...
What I have done is place it in the vice, clamping on the flat part with a rag around it
Placed a 15mm open end spanner behind the join. with a rag to stop marking, and tapped it out to the right length.
Everything appears strong tight and stable still..I dont know what is inside or if it is just a friction slide.

Is it still usable/safe?

I think there are further probs also...
Only a couple weeks before all this happened the car had its WoF (6 month wareent of fittness...legal requirement in NZ) this includes steering place...we have play in the steering box, forum search also says bashing the shaft can screw the steering box....
There is not to much in forums in regards to much in this thread, so as I go thru everything I will post, ask questions so others are able to reference later.
Thanks for the offer on parts, m8 appreachated.

sounds like they broke the nylon plugs that keep it from collapsing until you're in a wreck. it collapses so your chest doesn't when the front end gets hit. i don't know how safe it would be to drive without the plugs intact. maybe you can find something at the hardware store to use to refab new plugs.

although i'm not sure but without the plugs intact you might be able to pull the whole wheel assembly with the half shaft out of the column towards the driver. this could be very unsafe in a panic situation. be careful and do it right.

again if you need any parts let me know, i'd be more than happy to help out.

you might be able to pull the whole wheel assembly with the half shaft out of the column towards the driver
If the retainers (circlips)are in place the shaft cannot pull up thru the column upper bearings. looking at the overall design, where retainers are...The column will work without them BUT it would not be AT ALL safe as you suggest.

Chatting to the guys at Performance Parts in Auckland, NZ here. (Sry a plug..they have been very good to me over the yrs..No BS sort of guys)
They suggested lining those holes up (and gives me 35 inches) then I threaded a telfon thread thru them...shaft is still tight as it is meant to be...Got an old HQ holden Shaft/column to play with (Holden = Aussie/NZ GM and many parts interchangable and same)
Steering column is now in getting late so will look at finishing tomorrow.
There was another post way back about shaft not meeting the rag joint...
Make sure when the shaft is inside the column
1/ the lower retaining circlip reaches the stop point so the top part of the shaft evtends out far enough for steering wheel to sit on splines ok.
2/measure the distance from the rag joint to the 2 under dash main mounting bolts... Then check the distance from the bottom of the shaft (with upper part of rag joint in place) to the center of the slots of the mounting bracket is the same or very close (mine is 21 1/2 inches) This may vary as to what steering box u may have..I have 2.5 turns lock to lock.

For Ausse NZ members:
Interchangable HQ Holden column parts....
indicator assembly (same)
Top steering wheel nut (same)
Retainer clips (similar)
ignition switch (same) so are door trunk locks and window winders
link down to main electical switch (same)
main electrical switch (similar) can use if conector blocks are swaped
Indicator/horn loom and bottom connector (same)
Column bearings (similar)

Thanks heaps for the snippets of info guys.

Got the column sweet.
As mentioned above the steering shaft was wacked and shortened 2 15/16 "...The steering has bumps and doesnt self center, and heavy...down right dangerous.
There are numurous theads re steering box drag/problems.alingnment/rag joints. The following is a install/fix guideline. If chasing tight, unevenness, binding, play, just disconnect parts to find where it is (rag joint, pitman arm to steering arm, loosen mounting brakets remove firewall cover) check steering joints at the bottom of post.

Steering Box...
with the pitman arm disconected from steering arm, still same faults and play. Will not adjust up, so suspect something inside the box. Sent off to rebuild/sort out.
These Saginaw boxes dont wear, but can be abused.
The floating end play was messed up Due to what had to be a HUGE wack on the steering shaft. As the car was not driven other than a couple miles like this no damage or wear was found inside.

Loosen off column, 2 bolts holding bracket unger the dash, remove 4 bolts holding the bracket to the column, remove column firewall cover.
Unbolt rag joint (easest ay is thru the firewall hole) and pull column up about an inch.
Split pitman arm ball joint, remove 3 bolts holding steering box to chassis, and drop down, then remove power steering lines from 'box. May as well drain fluid and use new fluid later. Leave the pitman arm on for the steering box shop to remove correctly.

Replacing....It is important to alingn everything up correct othewise u will run into problems of tight/binding steering mentioned on many other threads.
Replace steering box, do up the mounting bolts nearly snug, with a little movement left.
Center the box.
Remove the steering wheel (use a puller) remove plate under (3 screws) and next plate (C clip) This last plate is on a spline...note: it only locates in 1 position on the column. If u look close at the splines there is a locating area. The plastic horn sleve lines up to the top left with the indicator switch, then the shaft is turned so the splined cover, hole for the horn fits on square.
The holes on the rag joint then should line up..if they dont it means the flange at the bottom of the shaft is in the incorrect postion on its splines. If it is incorect remove column/shaft completely and fix. (mine was ok)
Replace..place steering wheel on the shaft, when turned to one side, it should move free enough that it will turn on its own weight..u know the column is OK.

With everything centered (box, shaft) bolt up rag joint, not ight, just 'nicked up'
Replace 4 bolts on column bracket.
Check if free..u should have a couple little tight spots but turn free.
Tighten up the 2 main bracket bolts...everything should turn free and no tight spots. A spring scale on the outer rim of the steering wheel should show a even drag about 1 to 1 1/2 lbs even lock to lock. Tighten up rag joint bolts.
Again check no drag.
Tighten up and torgue steering box mount bolts...re check no drag
Fit the pitman arm...with box centered...note:the pitman arm splines only go one in 2 postions correct and 180 deg out. The pitman bolt has a torque of 130 lb/ft. DO NOT do this up at the end of the steering box turn limit. A large ring spanner placed between the pitman arm and the hub will stop it reaching its limit and do up against this.
Again check everything turns smooth.
Recenter box, column, horn assembly , splined plate, cover plate, steering wheel..do not tighten steering wheel yet.
Again check everything turns smooth.
Turn wheels manually check all moves smooth and not to tight.
Recenter box, make sure the ball joint nut runs freely on the thread Connect steering arm to pitman arm ball joint...
Again check everything turns smooth.
Tighten up replace with new split pin.
Replace firewall cover..fit all screws loose turn wheel full lock sevral times and nick up the screws.
Again check everything turns smooth.

Connect powersteer fluid lines
Fill resovour..disconect coil and turn over engine...the fluid will drop..re fill and repeat.
Connect coil, and let the engine start and kill immediately..re fill fluid...repeat untill fliud no longer drops. Start engine, re check fluid top up, turn wheel lock to lock several times recheck fliud.

Pump up your brakes...sounds strange, if, when u used the large ring spanner torquing the pitman arm and it was against the caliper you would have pushed the piston in, pumping will realign the caliper.

Check for leaks.
Again check everything turns smooth.
If at any stage it doesnt turn smooth u have a problem and it will be in that stage.
Locate steering wheel and slightly over finger tight the nut.

Jack the car up with wheels hanging free...with someone turning the steering wheel side to side about 1/3 to 1/2 turn with engine off, Check play in steering joints nil play.With vechile on the ground full lock repeat checking for any play in steering links/ball joints ...Nil
Check for any play in upper ball joints. Max 1/8" at top of wheel .
Jack up under lower A frame check lower ball joints
Check play in lower A frame ball joints. Max 1/8" at bottom of wheel
All checks out ok Get a wheel alignment.
Note: Steering wheel nut hasnt been torqued up yet or horn assembly replaced...Do this after the wheel alignment, saves using a puller to relocate steering wheel at the wheel alignment and assumes that is your 1st port of call...Dont drive around with a steering wheel not torqued up any further than the local tyre shop.

Back to orginal subject of repairing damage after been stolen...The engine has had some huge revs, runs very rich right thru rev range, we suspect a lifter has bounced and dropped on the cam running 1 or more lobs
Also Have a knock in the left bank on cold, disappears when warmed up, but returns on the highway just off cruise, suspect cracked or damaged pistion.
The brand new rear tyres have lost 22 to 25% of useable tread...and its all stuck to the inner gaurds (fenders in American language lol)

Hi. I also ned this link for the exploded view of a 68 camaro non tilt steering column. I click on the link and it don't come thru. Any suggestions. thanks

Just checked the links work fine...the .doc links open slow or try r clk open new window....

Try this link.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y38/JIML82/67-68exc-tilt01.jpg

JIML82