After 10 years I'm going to follow my heart and change out my 68 ragtop from a sluggish old powerglide to a 4 speed. She's been beggin' for it for years.
Stroker motor work is complete and we've dropped in a big 10 rearend with a 3.42 posi-trac unit.
I know I'm asking a lot, but what all will be involved in the change out.
I've purchased pedals and linkage, Hurst comp-plus shifter, and Muncie m-20 L.J.
Thanks: Jamie

Jamie -

Welcome to Team Camaro!

When you say stroker motor, I assume it's a small block. Check to see if your block is drilled to accept a stagger bolt starter [some blocks are drilled for both straight across (153-tooth flywheel application) and stagger (168-tooth flywheel)]. If you have only straight across, you'll need a 153-tooth flywheel, 10.4" clutch, and the correct size bellhousing (403 or equivalent) or scattershield. If you have stagger bolt, you can run the 168-tooth flywheel and 11" clutch (McLeod actually makes a nice 12" clutch and presure plate combo that fits), and the correct size bellhousing (621 or equiv.) or scattershield. You'll need the corresponding correct size clutch fork for whichever setup you pick. If you see how your block is set up and post back, we can help get you set up with part numbers.

You'll need a pilot bushing or roller bearing.

When you say you have linkage, do you have just the shifter linkage. If so, you'll need upper and lower clutch rods, bellcrank (aka Z-bar), and a clutch return spring.

You'll need the frame side pivot bracket and the block side pivot ball stud (hopefully your block is tapped for this).

There are some nice linkage kits available that include everything in the last two paragraphs above.

Thanks Eric:
You are right about the pump!!!!! It's a 383 sb.
I'll check on the block info you sent and get back with you.
I have the upper and lower clutch rods, Z-bar, return spring, firewall boots, and misc other stuff that I'm scratching my head over.
Another question I have is what kind of modification will be necessary to fit and mount the shifter mechanism on the tunnel to accomodate proper placement in the console.

The swap is a breeze, and you'll like it. I enjoyed my muncie so much I'm putting in a tko500 this year to get one more gear!

If you search, you might find your hole, but it's been a while since it was posted. Maybe someone will chime in. When I did mine, I got a measurment back from the firewall/tunnel seam, and cut the hole from that, but that was years ago... if no one chimes in tomorrow, I'll crwal uner and pull a measurement and snap a pic... motor and trans are out, but console and carpet are in!

EDIT: almost forgot, the directions for the clutch linkage are in the assembly manual. The holes for the outer bracket should be there, but are a bear to get at, they are kinda "behind" the inner fender.