jay'srs/ss
Feb 9th, 06, 12:11 PM
I put a Hurst Competition Plus 4 Speed Shifter in my 67 Camaro equipped with a factory center console. The linkage is lined up properly, but it hits the console in Reverse, 1st, & 3rd gear. Anyone else have the same issue? How did you correct it? Thanks. :beers:
Farm Boy
Feb 9th, 06, 12:33 PM
Remove the shifter rods from the transmission.
Loosen the 2 bolts that mount the shifter to the bracket and reposition the shifter.
Adjust and reinstall the shifter rods.
sjaroslo
Sep 11th, 10, 08:35 PM
I apologize for dredging this thread up from the boneyard but it seemed applicable to my situation. I have recently purchased a 67 RS/SS with a 327 and (assuming) a Muncie of unknown pedigree. While I haven't crawled under it yet, it does appear to be a Hurst shifter, and I was definitely smacking the console in 1st and 3rd (I took out the console this afternoon and was actually able to enjoy driving the car a little bit!).
Assuming that I don't have a Frankenstein situation, and that I do have a Hurst linkage, is the potential solution really this easy? The linkage bracket has some adjustability to it with regard to potentially being able to rotate it clockwise and move the shifter more to the center of the hole, from front to rear? Thanks!
Steve
JOE58
Sep 12th, 10, 08:37 AM
Yes, if you have the correct Hurst parts.
The lower shifter bolt goes thru a slot in the mount plate. This wll provide some front to rear adjustment of the shifter location.
drop down the rods and get your shifter in the correct location then re-adjust the rods using the lock pin
sjaroslo
Sep 12th, 10, 01:32 PM
Thanks for the response! We shall see in a few weeks when I'm ready to put it up on stands and start working on it in earnest. Appreciate it.
sjaroslo
Oct 17th, 10, 10:13 PM
FWIW, finally got the time and the gumption to get the 67 up in the air this weekend and am pleased to report that the fix really was this easy.... It was a balancing act, in that the middle shift rod had to be adjusted all of the way to the end of the threads to make it line up but with a little coaxing, it was there. I suspect running to the hardware store for a thinner jam nut might have been helpful, too.
But tell me, is it normal to be able to see daylight (and not just a sliver of it!) between the rear body mount bushing and the bottom of the car when jacking the car up from underneath the front crossmember? And then, after supporting the sub frame near the firewall and letting some of the tension off of the jack, be able to tighten those body mount bolts with your fingers??? I don't know if I should be merely scared or utterly frightened!
Steve
mahunt
Oct 18th, 10, 10:04 AM
Be afraid, be very afraid.
Tighten all 4 body mount bolts after ensuring that the front 2 match up with their alignment holes (1/2" hole in body, 1/2" hole in corresponding subframe mount ear). Line them up visually or with a tire iron.
sjaroslo
Oct 18th, 10, 09:59 PM
Yeah, kind of where my thinking was coming from, too. Anyone know which Forum it would make most sense to carry this thread forward? I need to know what those should be torqued to and whether the car should be on all 4 tires, or what.... Appreciate any guidance.
Steve