I looked in the search to see if anyone had tried Rust Bullet. The company is in Texas and they have a website, www.rustbullet.com (http://www.rustbullet.com) A friend of mine has used the product on several projects and swears by it now. Brush the loose rust away and put the product on. Supposedly is absorbs the rust into the product. From what he tells me it will adhere to anything and painting over it was no problem either. I ordered some to try on my 66 Nova since my Camaro has no rust. They have 2 versions: basic is for light rust and a "automotive" version that has more solids that will actually fill some of the deeper pits...mmmm the jury is still out but Ill let you guys know next week how it turns out. Kevin

I have been using it on my Camaro. It seems to go on nicely. I do not know how it compairs to POR-15, but this much I can say........just like POR-15, DON'T GET IT ON YOUR SKIN! It stays with you for a long time. :eek:

Hmmm... I might try this product. Anyone else have some testimonials?

My friend that put me onto Rust Bullet told me he had used POR 15 several times before using this product and according to him...no comparison. He tells me that the adhesion of RB is second to none. Ill have my own opinion soon graemlins/thumbsup.gif Kevin

How's the chip resistance? POR15 is good, Eastwood isn't too good.

I gotta see this stuff....

So far, I'm not impressed:

"A second coat of Rust Bullet® must be applied to completely seal the first coat; this cannot be done with any other paint or coating material."

"Because of the exacting chemical balance required by Rust Bullet®, thinning will compromise the quality of the cured product."

I do like the idea of not having to do all the prep required with POR-15 though. ;)

I have used Rust Bullet awhile now and it ROCKS I do say one thing though you must apply a second coat to seal it. This second coat really thickens it up. Super scratch resistant. I have tried to clean some treated areas for a finished look and my wire brush could barley sand it off. FOR REAL!! Only after Iapllied the deep shoulder to elbow to wrist preassure was I able to clean the RB off.

I have never tried POR-15 or Eastwoods version. And I know POR-15 is the leader at this point but I choose the RUST BULLET

Brad

I have sandblasted the bottom of my '69 and was about to do the POR routine. I hesitate to put water on this clean metal in order to rinse off the Marine Clean and Metal Ready. Rust Bullet says you do not have to do this so I am interested. Their web site info is pretty compelling. Anyone else tried this stuff?
Thanks, Mike

I used Por-15 on the underside of my 69. I had the car dipped and I lightly sand blasted the new floor pans I installed. I followed their directions reference preperation. A few weeks later I was able to peel the Por -15 off in sheets. I will never use this product again.

Hey 69Mike,
I would rinse any anti rust formula with water if the directions say to do so. I know it sound kinda backwards but its the only way to neutralize the acids fighting the rust. If you dont do this any paint including RB may not adhere properly.

Like I said above Rust Bullet has done what it says it will do for me. I do prep all the metel to "bare" metal before I apply.
Also I live in Hawaii so I know a little about fighting rust;)

Originally posted by KURT:
I used Por-15 on the underside of my 69. I had the car dipped and I lightly sand blasted the new floor pans I installed. I followed their directions reference preperation. A few weeks later I was able to peel the Por -15 off in sheets. I will never use this product again. Same thing happened to me when I did some rust on the bottom of my '95....

POR15 needs alot of 'tooth' to adhere such as found on rusted metal. On my new floors, I was extremely careful on prep yet it peeled off when I put the tranny crossmember in where it rubbed. After alot of debating with my local auto paint place, they agreed that new metal isn't a good application. Unfortunately, my entire floors are already done. I will say that in 2 years, there hasn't been any signs of deterioration. I believe it's sealed but the adhesion on new metal leaves alot to be desired.

I agree.... from my experience with POR paints, I wouldn't use it on anything but rusty or WELL sandblasted steel. I've even done parts that weren't fully prepped according to their directions and the paint is on so tight, I could barely grind it off. But that was old steel that was sandblasted.

If I don't see the first coat sucked up as I paint it on, then it tends to just sit there. Even so, I haven't had any come off at all yet. I TRIED to scratch it off those tiny spots and it's no problem.

For the underside floors that have been replaced, I'd sand the surface with something course like 60 or 80 grit REAL WELL if I couldn't blast it well.

I'm only using POR paints on the frame parts and suspension parts that are original 1960's steel that's been rusty, then totally sandblasted clean. It DOES suck right into the steel even after full 3-step prep, believe me! It ain't ever coming off. graemlins/thumbsup.gif

I had been applying a base coat of Rust Bullet and a top coat of Glyptol to the inside of new rocker panels before installing them. After letting it all dry for a couple days, I decided to see how good adhesion was. I COULD BARELY GET IT OFF WITH A WIRE BRUSH!

I decided to do the same with POR-15. The result: It peeled off in one big sheet.
Chris

There ya go, that was your mistake.

I think Restomotive\POR needs to update their directions as far as WHAT it works best on, and HOW the surface must be prepped prior to painting. I disagree with some of their directions and\or claims as to what it will stick to.

For those rockers, I would have scored the surface big time before using POR, with or without doing the Metal Ready step.

I am by NO means pushing POR products. But you have to know how to use it. I'm definitely not stuck on ONLY using POR paint products, it just happens to be what I started with and have learned a lot about it. I'm presenting my views and experiences for the masses to learn from.

If I have the need in the future to use a product like this again, for whatever reason, I'm trying something else. Personally, there's just too many steps involved with POR paint. I'm an impatient person so if there's something else out there that works AS WELL AS POR does for me, I'll use it.

Well, if the tests on the bullet site are real, then the stuff is a bit tougher than POR, and needs no prep past brushing off the loose crud.

I've got some on the way to try out. POR has worked well for me on some sandblasted parts and toolboxes I cleaned up. We'll see.

What's the verdict on the Rust Bullet?

I'm in the process of putting it on under the gas tank area, rear frame rails and truck floor. I like the application. Don't have real world experience yet.

where can i buy rust bullet?

I treated the underneath of my car from the rear seat to the tailpan. The application went very well. I tried sanding it a few days later and it's pretty tough. I still cleaned the areas with a scotch brite pad and wiped down with paint prep. One thing I like over POR15 is there's no outgassing, leaving pimple like POR15 does. For me, depending on application, I'm using Rust Bullet and Eastwood encapsulator.

Hey guys, I want to stress something. You have to put on 2 coats, otherwise the moisture from the air will attack the areas that are thinned by the brush or spray. I missed some areas on my car under the quarter, and when I got ready to install it, I gave it the once over. Just to be sure I was ready to install it. Well, I noticed that there was a slight amount of rust forming on where my brush had thinned it out too much. So, I recoated those areas. No indication of any more of that discoloration. Just my pennies worth. Order the material from here Rust Bullet (http://www.rustbullet.com/)

Just my personal opinion, but I feel many people like Rustbullet and other products over POR-15 because of the lack of prep work that is claimed to be required, but it is the prep that makes the job last. How can you expect anything to last long or adhere properly by just brushing off the loose rust. The surface doesn't get cleaned, neutralized, or chemically etched as in the POR system. You get what you pay for, so to speak. The more work prepping a job, the better it is bound to turn out. I have looked at these products as well, but ultimately have decided that it just doesn't seem that they can physically adhere as well or last as long. I personally have not experienced any of the 'fisheye' problems people have posted about POR, but find that many people are not rinsing the metal ready properly, and letting the surface dry well enough after rinsing before applying the POR coat.(Or not using the etching step at all). Anyway, my .02 for the day. :cool:

sicsD8, I only will apply the Rust Bullet after blasting the areas. I won't paint over any rust. Only good metal.

I agree to use rust bullet to its best ability you should at least wire brush the area to be treated.
I tested RB on a rust hole on my 90 toyota 4x4. The truck never gets covered and I live in Hawaii. The rust bullet is still strong and NO rust has came back, its been over a year. And to be truthfully honest I only "hand" wire brushed my truck. I would have to recommend Rust bullet to anyone its great not cheap though.

I have used POR 15 quite a bit and have had no issues. I really prep well using 80 grit to rough up surface. However I also used a product called Zero Rust which works well and is much more tolerant of aplication. The folks over at http://www.autobodystore.com also like this product. Worth looking into.

IMO- I would still recommend using a chemical neutralizer and etching agent such as Metalready after blasting. Blasting and wire wheel does roughen up the area, but does not provide the same type of surface as a chemical etching provides. If you were to magnify both surfaces, the difference would be obvious. Also, the wire wheel will leave small areas of active rust behind and I personally feel better knowing that these areas were neutralized before encapsulation as well. I'm sure that coating after blasting alone has, and will, provide satifactory results, but on such a tedious job, I want the best possible chance of keeping rust at bay. After the sufaces have been cleaned, blasted or whatever, it is only a very simple extra step to soak with Metal ready and then rinse well and dry. The hard part has already been done. It's cheap insurance in my book.