I have a 69 4 speed and thinking about changing to 5 or 6 speed tranny. Any advice or ideas? 383 stroker

5 speed tremecs will hold more power unmodified. stock t-56's are made to hold around 400hp but i've heard of them living under much more harsh conditions. It really boils down to what you'll be using the car for, if you have a console, and how much your willing to pay. lt1 t-56's will bolt up to your standard 69 bellhousing, use a hydraulic clutch, and may require more effort to work. Talk to teetoe if you want a full setup, or you could get all the info you want here and just buy a used or remanufactured one for much cheaper if you have all the other parts.
Tremec five speeds will are usually built for 575-675 horse. If you have a console its easiest to fit a console in using the tremec (that is if you use keisler or classic chevy to do it. They make a perfect fit shifter and it sits in real nice).

I'm sure others will chime in. I was lookin to do this but decided to go with an overdrive automatic when i saw the prices... most 5 speed packages start at $3000, and 6 speeds are around $5000. Just a tad to much for a poor college boy!!!

Hope this helps
David

Seriuosly consider the 5-speed - easier install, enough overdrive, stronger transmission, will put stick in stock console, less expensive.
If you are truley road racing racing the car at high speeds, the 6 speed has an advantage with the 4-5 shift.

Richmond sells a very good 6-speed transmission for around 2900 bucks. I've heard good things about them, but I have a hard time getting away from my Muncie. :)

http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com

Just type "richmond 6 speed" in their search parameters and it will bring you to it.

I'd do searches both here and at pro-touring.com.

2.66 first gear T56's are typically rated at 450 ft-lbs torque. 2.97 first gear T56's are typically rated at 400 ft-lbs torque.

LS1 T56's are (IMHO) more suitable for a mechanical clutch linkage setup, if used with a mechanical clutch linkage setup are more nearly a bolt-in and require fewer expensive aftermarket parts.

LT1 T56's (because of the very short input shaft) require a "pull" style pressure plate that in turn requires a moderately expensive aftermarket flywheel (assuming you're using a block with the larger rear main flange found in the pre 1987 (?) style factory crankshafts). In addition, you must use the LT1 style bellhousing (which has the slave cylinder mounting cast in) so a scattershield is not an option.

Used T56's are now easily available for under $2,000. (My vote would be to buy the cheapest LS1 T56 I could find that had gears intact and have it rebuilt locally, so you know what you have.)

To install an LT1 T56 you'll need the LT1 T56, the hydraulic master cylinder, the hydraulic slave cylinder, the LT1 bellhousing, the "pull" style pressure plate (all of the foregoing should come in a "complete changeover package"), a bracket to mount the hydraulic master cylinder for the clutch linkage to the firewall, a flywheel which will take the "pull" style pressure plate (this can be a pricey item - you won't be able to reuse the factory flywheel if you have a pre-1987 style crankshaft), and a cross member.

To use an LS1 T56 you'll need the LS1 T56, an adapter from McLeod Industries to bolt the T56 to the bellhousing, an extended pilot bushing from from McLeod Industries, an input shaft bearing retainer (on which the throwout bearing rides (also available from McLeod Industries)), a standard bellhousing, a standard pressure plate, a standard flywheel, a standard mechanical clutch linkage and a cross member. I prefer a mechanical clutch linkage with heim joints - very smooth.

If you use the hydraulic clutch linkage for an LS1 T56, you'll also need a hydraulic clutch master cylinder, a bracket to mount the hydraulic master cylinder for the clutch linkage to the firewall, the factory hydraulic throwout bearing and the factory hose that connects the two (with the "drill" modification).

Again, my opinion, I would avoid the LS1 hydraulic throwout bearing, as any replacement of a leaky hydraulic throwout bearing requires removal of the transmission.

In both cases you'll need to shorten the drive shaft and move the console back (if you have one).

On the plus side you'll have either a .62 or a .50 sixth gear which makes high numeric rear gears easy to live with. I have 4.11's out back with a .62 6th gear, and can cruise at under 2,000 rpm at 60 mph.

Thanks for the information. I love to drive it but I'm turning 2900 RPM's at 55 MPH. It is ok around town but I would like to be able to drive anywhere and not feel that I'm abusing the engine. I'm not hard core and don't plan on racing but want a dependable setup that has some guts to it. I'm running a 383 stroker. It has decent power but not a Big block either. Thanks again

Tremec 5 speed would be perfect for what you are looking for. I just put one in my car for that very reason. Loved the muncie 4 speed until i hit about 60-65mph cruising down the highway. Tremec will give you all the fun of the first 4 gears of a muncie with the benefit of that 5th overdrive gear. Just to give you an idea i was running 3000 rpms at 60 mph, with the new Tremec in 5th gear at 65 mph i will run just over 1900 rpms.

That sounds like just what I'm looking for. Did you do it yourself and how much did you have to spend to get it done? Do you have any pictures?

If your thinking about the Tremec i would highly recommend these guys... www.classichevy5speed.com They are great guys as well as regulars on this site. Jim or Jeff. I installed it myself and was actually pretty easy. Did it all in a morning. I bought the TKO 600 kit. Check their website for a list of all thats included in the kit...the kit was $2600. I did take a couple quick pictures, not really that good...hope to snap some better ones at some point.
http://www.camaros.net/showroom/data/500/medium/TKOIn2.JPG