Has anyone tried the new door skin tool called "The Skinner"? It is advertised in the new Eastwood catalogue. How about it MartinSR?

It is not new, it has been around for many years. I personally don't like it. I have never used one, but have seen many people "try" to use it. It always damages the panel.

Have you read the "Basics of Basics" to door skins? It works every time.

Now, a couple of guys recently got a new tool for skins where I work. It REALLY works, but it is about $500.00.

Martin is that "tool" produced by dent fix?
http://www.dentfix.com/acb2/showdetl.cfm?DID=6&Product_ID=114&CATID=3
A short barrel air hammer(snap on ph2045) and body hammer smoother head(MAC#AH127) Ive found can install a skin in about 5-10 mins and no filler. The trick is about 40-50 psi and a HOCKEY PUCK bought at Wally World for about 15 bucks. Works pretty slick...Eric

Don't know who makes the Skinner but it's marketed by Eastwood. It looks kind of like a hand can opener, and apparently works about as good!!

http://www.exclamationagiftshop.com/auto-parts/The_Skinner_Door_Panel_Ins.shtml

The hockey puck and body hammer method worked great for me. But, if you use structural adhesive in the seam, you do have to work quickly!!

Paul D.

How important is it to use adhesive in the seam? I will be replacing my drivers side door panel for the first time in about a few weeks. It is a Goodmark piece. Do I need my fender on to do this? Is there any adjusting in regards to the attitude of the door skin in relation to the door frame or can this just be remedied through a thorough alignment of the panels during final assembly? I would rather just tack weld the panel on and be done with it. Thanks.

Infamous, you dont need to use adhesive if you dont want too.

A nice thing about the adhesive it makes a corrosion resistant seem, plus it bonds the entire seem so you have a more rigid panel when done.

Yes you can move the skin around on the frame but if you move it around too much out of whack NO adjustment of panels will correct this.
This can happen if you glue or weld the skin in place.

What I do is first remove the door from the car, remove the old skin. Now I fix any damage to the frame and test fit the skin, ti see if I need for fixing on the door frame to achieve a tight fit around the skin.

Now I put the just the frame back on the car and adjust it the best I can to the quarter and fender. Then come back and hang the skin on the frame checking for fit. This will tell WHERE the skin needs to go in relation to the frame and also can help me reshape the frame as you can bend the frame pretty easily without the skin attached.

Once you have the skin location found I like to mark its position in several spots. If you plan on welding any pinch welds then drill holes for alginment srecws.

Now remove the entire door from car and prep the door frame and skin for welding and or adhesive, realgin skin to the location marks you made eariler.

A have a few more questions...

1.) My entire front clip is off the car and dismantled, will I actually need to go ahead and re-assemble everything?

2.) Also, how do you move the panel around on the door frame with the door closed and fender attached? It looks to be kinda hard to get to the hinge bolts with the fender in the way? Also, do you use a piece of plastic or something to pry the panel up and into position so as to not hurt the sheet metal?

3.) Couldn't I just use the body line down the middle of the Quarter Panel to align the door skin with a conservative 3/8 gap between door and quarter and door and rocker?

Sorry for all the crazy questions. Thanks.

Sorry, I'm going to bump this. I need answers to those questions soon. Thanks.

Infamous
1: No you DONT need to reassembly the front end

2: You remove the door from the car so you can grind off the folded edge. Unbolt the door from the hinge. Leave the hinge still attached to cowl.

No need for a prying tool, the skin will slide around the frame.

Once you have the old skin removed bolt the door frame back on the car, trying to algin it the best you can.

Then come back and set the NEW skin on the frame to check your progress. Also tells you where the skin will need to rest on the frame for proper fit.

Once you have the fit you like, mark the skin position on the frame, remove the door again.
Prepare the new skin and frame for welding/glueing. Reinstall new skin according to the position marks you made earlier.

3: Yes algin the skin to that style line on the quarter! 3/8 gap on the rocker and door to quarter is a tad big Id shoot for something in range of 3/16, basically the thickness of a wooden paint stick

Thank you very much. graemlins/thumbsup.gif